Affordable hydraulic top link option for LX series without waiting 6 months.

[Daferris]

I just got a hydraulic top link from Spare parts Holland https://sparepartsholland.com/produ...-with-locking-block-460-670-mm-with-2-x-hose/
It's also available on Amazon and on E-bay took about 4 days to arrive. For just a few buck more and without any risk of the fees for a foreign currency transaction on the credit card or customs clearance / duties adding to the price.
This is what is needed to make it work on a LX series with factory rear remotes...
1). You need to grind a total of about 3/32" off the sleeve on the fixed end for it to fit into the top link mount on the transmission housing.
2). The banjo fittings for the lock block are G3/8" BSPP thread. I used those fittings but I cut the hoses shorter to fit my tractor better and went to my local NAPA parts store to have them crimp on a Gates G251000604 3/8" hose to 1/4" Male NPT fitting. That allows me to use the Pioneer couplers that came with the tractor.

Also just an FYI the hydraulic cylinder is marked made in Turkey... Hopefully that's an improvement over the Chinese stuff...

 

[minthral]

I found that brand. Also this:

Application Charts

With so many parts and so many different machines, it can sometimes be overwhelming to find the exact part you need. We've put together some different application charts to try to make that process a little easier. Feel free to browse our different product lines, and if there's still something...

www.agristoreusa.com

I went with agristore because they have a nicer looking hose kit (36 inches... 24 is a bit short for my L3301).

 

[Daferris]

I found that brand. Also this:

Application Charts

With so many parts and so many different machines, it can sometimes be overwhelming to find the exact part you need. We've put together some different application charts to try to make that process a little easier. Feel free to browse our different product lines, and if there's still something...

www.agristoreusa.com

I went with agristore because they have a nicer looking hose kit (36 inches... 24 is a bit short for my L3301).

The spare parts Holland one comes with 29" hoses I had to cut them down to about 20" and 25" for my LX

 

[minthral]

Well dang I missed that... somehow thought it was 24 inches. 29 still kind short L3301 as when lowered it's 24 inches to the remotes mounted on ROPs above fender. I think on LX they're lower near the trans axle. Bending hose under pressure to plug it in remotes would add a good 12 inches is how I figured it so 36 should be about right.

 

[Daferris]

Well dang I missed that... somehow thought it was 24 inches. 29 still kind short L3301 as when lowered it's 24 inches to the remotes mounted on ROPs above fender. I think on LX they're lower near the trans axle. Bending hose under pressure to plug it in remotes would add a good 12 inches is how I figured it so 36 should be about right.

Yes my remotes are down at the same level as the tractor side of the top link pin. But next to the ROPs bar

 

[radas]

Hey @Daferris & others, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these but wanted to see if you had some insight on fitment with a Pats quick hitch. I'm not sure if you have one or not but would I need a link with a longer max length than 670mm? I know the Pats QH requires PTO extensions on most implements so I'm assuming a longer top link may be needed but wanted to get your feedback.

 

[Daferris]

Hey @Daferris & others, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these but wanted to see if you had some insight on fitment with a Pats quick hitch. I'm not sure if you have one or not but would I need a link with a longer max length than 670mm? I know the Pats QH requires PTO extensions on most implements so I'm assuming a longer top link may be needed but wanted to get your feedback.

The best suggestion I have is to measure after you get the Pat's QC on. I think you might want the longer one. The one I got as I recall was the middle length one. For me it's perfect and I can tilt the QC I have back quite a bit. Makes really easy to hook up. Also if your going to make a side link I would go with a 1.5" bore cylinder. I used 2" and it's a bit of overkill. Have had no issues with either cylinder yet.

 

[radas]

The best suggestion I have is to measure after you get the Pat's QC on. I think you might want the longer one. The one I got as I recall was the middle length one. For me it's perfect and I can tilt the QC I have back quite a bit. Makes really easy to hook up. Also if your going to make a side link I would go with a 1.5" bore cylinder. I used 2" and it's a bit of overkill. Have had no issues with either cylinder yet.

Thank you. I measured today, I'm at roughly 26" of top link length with the BB level and placed on ground level.

What's the range I need? 26" +/- 6"?

 

[Daferris]

Sparepartsholland on eBay has one that looks like it would work for you. You will need to grind the spacer tube for the joint that hooks at the tractor about 3/16" narrower to fit the tractor but that's the only mod. Mine came with 1/2" pioneer couplers but I was set up for 3/8" look in the original post for the NAPA part # for the house ends. I had to shorten the hoses that came with the cylinder anyway. I've been using mine for 6 months and it's still working like new. Just watch for interference with the light bracket above the 3pt. With hitch all the way up and the cylinder retracted all the way it will hit.

 

[radas]

Sparepartsholland on eBay has one that looks like it would work for you. You will need to grind the spacer tube for the joint that hooks at the tractor about 3/16" narrower to fit the tractor but that's the only mod. Mine came with 1/2" pioneer couplers but I was set up for 3/8" look in the original post for the NAPA part # for the house ends. I had to shorten the hoses that came with the cylinder anyway. I've been using mine for 6 months and it's still working like new. Just watch for interference with the light bracket above the 3pt. With hitch all the way up and the cylinder retracted all the way it will hit. View attachment 84420

I was looking at that one before I measured based on your original one +5-6". Thank you for the advice!

 

[D2Cat]

You could disconnect your top link at the box blade then carefully start the tractor and raise the 3 pt arms until you get the dimension of 32" (where the cylinder will be) and see how it would effect the operation of the implement.

 

[radas]

You could disconnect your top link at the box blade then carefully start the tractor and raise the 3 pt arms until you get the dimension of 32" (where the cylinder will be) and see how it would effect the operation of the implement.

That's a good idea, I will try that although I already ordered the 22-32 link. Is there an option to limit the full extension of the link besides putting a little stop block on my rear hydro remote?

 

[D2Cat]

You can get these hyd. cylinder ram clip on locks (referred to as stoke control). You can get various thicknesses or stack them to get what you want. They two haves are held together by a spring clip. Might work for what you're needing. Took this off of Amazon.

 

[radas]

You can get these hyd. cylinder ram clip on locks (referred to as stoke control). You can get various thicknesses or stack them to get what you want. They two haves are held together by a spring clip. Might work for what you're needing. Took this off of Amazon.

View attachment 84438

Hmm... Those look like they'd work for the compression stroke but would they work with the extension stroke as well? Either way, looks useful.

 

[D2Cat]

You can put on either end of the ram. One example, if using a mower with a hyd. cylinder to raise and lower to deck to adjust cutting height, these can be put on the upper end and the entire field will be cut the same height 'cause it can't get any lower. Same on the lower end. They limit the stroke of the cylinder and they stay in place with the spring clamp.

 

[radas]

You can put on either end of the ram. One example, if using a mower with a hyd. cylinder to raise and lower to deck to adjust cutting height, these can be put on the upper end and the entire field will be cut the same height 'cause it can't get any lower. Same on the lower end. They limit the stroke of the cylinder and they stay in place with the spring clamp.

If I installed on this ram though, I don't see how it would limit the extension, only the compression, or am I thinking about this wrong?

 

[Daferris]

You would have to open up the cylinder to put any limiter on the extension side. However I don't think you would have a need to do that unless you have a valve with a float dentent as the hydraulics will keep it at whatever position you set it at.

 

[D2Cat]

Why are you needing a limit to the cylinder extension? Is it raising the implement too far, or allowing it to extend too far?

 

[radas]

You would have to open up the cylinder to put any limiter on the extension side. However I don't think you would have a need to do that unless you have a valve with a float dentent as the hydraulics will keep it at whatever position you set it at.

Got it, that makes sense. I have never taken one apart (have seen videos to take king shocks apart back when I owned one of their steering stabilizers) but I can't imagine it'd be too hard.

Why are you needing a limit to the cylinder extension? Is it raising the implement too far, or allowing it to extend too far?

Just planning in case the extension is too long. Going from an 18"-26" cylinder (factory size) to a 22"-32" cylinder has me a little worried but I think it should be fine considering the current cylinder is near full extension and 26" with the BB level. The pats QH adds about 3-4" to the 3pt arms.

 

[radas]

Just wanted to follow up and add some notes to this thread.

If you have an LX2610, LX3310, B2650, etc... series with the Pats Quick Hitch, the correct top link is the one Daferris suggested above. The Sparepartsholland 20 7/8" - 31 7/8" or 530mm - 810mm works with full range of motion for my box blade.

I ground the sleeve and the housing down (misread the instructions in the first post) but I now have near factory fitment. Here is roughly the extension that results in my BB scrapers level front to back.

I need to come up with a solution to hang the top link so I don't have to remove it when it's not hooked up. Maybe some low grade chain wrapped around the factory link hook...