LA534 FEL grease point fail/o ring missing

[NEPA Guy]

Hit my first 10 hour mark for greasing. On the FEL there's one spot that's dry as a bone. Grease won't go in, just comes out at the zerk. I removed the zerk and its flowing fine. I checked inside the cavity and cleaned it out, there seems to be no obstruction, still no luck. I'm assuming to remove the sliver pin, but don't know what position I should put the FEL in to take the pressure off. Lay it on the floor? Disconnect it?

Also on the same spot, It appears to be missing an o ring. The other side has one. How can I replace such a thing?

Any advice appreciated!

 

[D2Cat]

If you need to remove the pin, I would put a jack under the bucket, turn the engine off, wiggle the joystick to release pressure. This will allow you to move the bucket up or let it down to get all pressure off the loader arm. This should allow the pin to be punched out.

I think the O-ring was there to protect the seals while painting. It has no other purpose there.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

For that pin just lower the bucket to the ground, turn the tractor off and move the control lever around to relieve all the pressure on the lines, then try greasing it again, if still nothing then remove the pin.

 

[Ramos]

The first two posts have you covered. If the pin won't drive out fairly easy, you still have pressure on it. You could also remove the FEL and then pull the pin if you would rather.

You are not 'short' an o-ring. You actually have an extra! As already mentioned, once the paint was applied, its' job of protecting the face of the seal was done. If you cut that o-ring off, both sides will match!

 

[NEPA Guy]

I had the bucket to the ground and wiggled the control stick around to relieve the pressure when I tried greasing it up unsuccessfully.

Since I have the quick release for the bucket, maybe I should just drop it to get rid of the weight off the loader arm? I'll give that a shot and if that doesn't work I'll go the jack method.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[NEPA Guy]

The first two posts have you covered. If the pin won't drive out fairly easy, you still have pressure on it. You could also remove the FEL and then pull the pin if you would rather.

You are not 'short' an o-ring. You actually have an extra! As already mentioned, once the paint was applied, its' job of protecting the face of the seal was done. If you cut that o-ring off, both sides will match!

Awesome Thanks!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Since I have the quick release for the bucket, maybe I should just drop it to get rid of the weight off the loader arm?

That won't really help you, just drop it on the ground (no weight on the arms) and then hit the pin with a hammer a few times to loosen it up.

 

[NEPA Guy]

That won't really help you, just drop it on the ground (no weight on the arms) and then hit the pin with a hammer a few times to loosen it up.

Will do. Thank you!

 

[Tooljunkie]

First 10 hour mark? Would t this be something the dealer should take care of?
I would do the same thing, fix it myself. But that being said, it probably never saw grease from new.

 

[NEPA Guy]

First 10 hour mark? Would t this be something the dealer should take care of?
I would do the same thing, fix it myself. But that being said, it probably never saw grease from new.

I agree. You're right, never saw grease. My dealer is 40 miles away, and I've about had enough of em if I can help it.

I'm working on getting a 20' trailer next so I can haul it myself when necessary to cut down on costs. Yet another thing to learn. How to load, unload, and even worse, going in reverse.

 

[Rolling Stock]

I agree. You're right, never saw grease. My dealer is 40 miles away, and I've about had enough of em if I can help it.

I'm working on getting a 20' trailer next so I can haul it myself when necessary to cut down on costs. Yet another thing to learn. How to load, unload, and even worse, going in reverse.

A neat trick I saw in a diesel magazine about backing up trailers, place your hand on the bottom of your steering wheel knuckle side up and when you want the trailer to turn left move your hand left and vice versa. It feels weird at first but it helps if you tend to forget which way to steer when backing a trailer.

 

[NEPA Guy]

A neat trick I saw in a diesel magazine about backing up trailers, place your hand on the bottom of your steering wheel knuckle side up and when you want the trailer to turn left move your hand left and vice versa. It feels weird at first but it helps if you tend to forget which way to steer when backing a trailer.

Thanks for the tip, worth a shot!

 

[tcalvin48]

I'm also not able to get the grease into the upper lube point of the main arm on both sides of my LA534. I just had the annual maintenance for my B2650, the mechanic had a portable electric Milwaukee grease gun and was able to get grease into the two fittings. I'm using a lock-n-lube tip on my hand powered gun, but the grease won't go in.
Suggestions, please...
Tom Stoltz
in Maine

 

[dirtydeed]

push the center ball of the grease zerk in a few times (with an awl or something pointy) to make sure that it will accept grease. If you are able to press the ball in, it should take grease.

If that fails, replace the grease zerk or try with a different grease gun, preferably a grease gun with the "normal" fitting that can be tightened to better grip the zerk.

edit: crap. I see that I responded to an old thread.

 

[tcalvin48]

push the center ball of the grease zerk in a few times (with an awl or something pointy) to make sure that it will accept grease. If you are able to press the ball in, it should take grease.

If that fails, replace the grease zerk or try with a different grease gun, preferably a grease gun with the "normal" fitting that can be tightened to better grip the zerk.

edit: crap. I see that I responded to an old thread.

Thanks Dirtydeed, I know the zerks are okay because the Kubota mechanic was able to lube them. He had a portable powered Milwaukee grease gun. They are kind of pricey which is why I am not running right out to get one.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine

 

[Russell King]

Since you said “hand powered “. I assume you mean a pistol grip version of grease gun. See if you can borrow a lever type gun and get grease in the fitting

Greasing often also may help

 

[tcalvin48]

Since you said “hand powered “. I assume you mean a pistol grip version of grease gun. See if you can borrow a lever type gun and get grease in the fitting

Greasing often also may help

Yes, it is a pistol grip model with a Lock n Lube tip. I blow my old lever style out a while ago... it was probably close to 40 years old. I am starting to eye the Milwaukee M-18 (I think). Saw it has 10,000psi so that's probably why the Kubota mechanic can get the grease into the joint. However, it is over $200.00... not sure the boss will go for it.
Tom Stoltz
in Maine

 

[tcalvin48]

Well, I bite the bullet and bought the Milwaukee M18 grease gun kit and it has no problem getting grease into the upper joint on the FEL. So now my question is; the M18 has settings to regulate the amount of grease it jumps. Does anyone have an idea what setting would be appropriate? My old rule of thumb is to pump until you see the grease oozing out of the joint.
just curious,
Tom Stoltz
in Maine

 

[RCW]

Don't have mine in front of me, but seems like the gun has a low pressure/high volume setting, and another for high pressure/low volume? Seems like it's a 1 or 2 respectively.

If I remember it correctly, I use the high pressure, and look for the old stuff to get purged out.

 

[nbryan]

Hit my first 10 hour mark for greasing. On the FEL there's one spot that's dry as a bone. Grease won't go in, just comes out at the zerk. I removed the zerk and its flowing fine. I checked inside the cavity and cleaned it out, there seems to be no obstruction, still no luck. I'm assuming to remove the sliver pin, but don't know what position I should put the FEL in to take the pressure off. Lay it on the floor? Disconnect it?

Also on the same spot, It appears to be missing an o ring. The other side has one. How can I replace such a thing?

Any advice appreciated!

Before loosening or popping the pin out, if you can get a helper to apply pressure to the grease gun while it's attached to that fitting and with the tractor idling, fully raise and lower the boom through its range to allow some pin/sleeve motion to hopefully release that grease jam.