Moving a hst tractor, not running.
- Thread starter Muggman
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I'm going to split it and wanted to roll the rear-end back about a foot. Right now it will not roll in either direction. I'll check to make sure it's actually in neutral. I'm still working on that b7300. This thing is like working on a pocket watch. I'm used to them old Ford tractors.
put it in neutral
disengage the 4wd
should slip apart once you get all the crap out of the way
I hated working on B series. Worse yet BX's.
disengage the 4wd
should slip apart once you get all the crap out of the way
I hated working on B series. Worse yet BX's.
Got 4wd driveshaft out. There's just no good place to put the jacks. I've got to split it twice. Behind motor and at the hydro pump.
i always split the rear off first, that way you can support the center while you're removing the back part. I leave the ROPS on, and use it for a handle, and a stand. Just lay ROPS back onto the ground, HST sticking straight up. Won't hurt a thing, well maybe your back--it's not too aweful heavy, but it does have some weight. use the ROPS for leverage.
Then you can pull the center off and get to the gearcase. Still no good way to support it but you'll have to get creative. I had some angle iron with holes drilled in it, which bolted to the sides of the engine and then 2 more on the front weight bracket. It did ok to hold it up.
I got it split today and got the clutch and press. Plate off. They look almost new. I noticed the flywheel only has 4 bolts, did the last jack leg leave 1 out or is there a dowel in 1 hole. I quit at this point. I guess when I start back I ll see if it's threaded or not. This was basically a tractor in a box thing.
I got back on the b7300 this morning. It looks like it's supposed to be 5 bolts. My question is, to speed things up. How does the flywheel clock. Does it only go 1 way
I notice it is timing marked an there is a inspection hole. I marked flywheel where it was at, but want to know for sure because there is no dowel and don't know if the last person done it right. I'm assuming 1 of the bolt holes is a little off so it will only go 1 way.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
'historically', all flywheels only fit one way....... I know the 'greyK' I had, it only fit ONE way right.
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
They only go on one way. However there is very little difference in the distance between the holes.
Make sure the threads on the bolts and in the end of the crankshaft are clean and you can thread all the bolts into the holes by hand. Then place the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft and try the bolts. You need to find the position that allows all bolts to be fully threaded in by hand. One you find that spot then tighten the bolts with a wrench to the correct torque.
Make sure the threads on the bolts and in the end of the crankshaft are clean and you can thread all the bolts into the holes by hand. Then place the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft and try the bolts. You need to find the position that allows all bolts to be fully threaded in by hand. One you find that spot then tighten the bolts with a wrench to the correct torque.
Thanks, that's what I'm thinking, but it only had 4 bolts when I got to it, gonna have to get another bolt to be positive.
a lot of the ones i did, when u take the flyhwheel off you will see an extra hole in the crankshaft that looks like it outta have a dowel in it. It leaves a shadown on the back of the flywheel. Just line them up and you're fine. If you have to replace the flywheel, I "think" they will only line up one way. If you spin the flywheel around you'll see what I'm talking about-a lot of them will have one of the 5 (or 6 in my case) holes drilled a little off so it won't line up unless it's perfectly clocked
I think the previous guy left a bolt out. It has what looks to be 3 original bolts, 1 different and 1 missing. I bought 2 10.9 bolts at the hardware store. Just going to use them if Noone advises differently. I think it just has a offset hole so it goes 1 way. I marked the way it came off. I cannot find a clutch alignment tool anywhere. I'm going to make 1 if Noone has any ideas.
If you have blue Loctite use it. I was always taught on cars and equipment to use blue for flywheel bolts.
the factory bolts have a different sized shank than most parts store bolts do, plus it is a flange head design which if you use a non flanged bolt (or non-factory replacement) double and triple check the clearance between the bolt head and the clutch disc! The heads of the factory bolts are a little thinner than most of the "hardware store" bolts. The shank fits kinda tight in the holes, which does several things, one helps locate the wheel, and two strengthens the fastener., also helps to strengthen the joint in that if they aren't tight enough, the shock loading will be less if there is less room between the bolt shank and the heavy flywheel. Too bad ARP doesn't make them for this application. I probably had a few dozen of them laying around. Had a mass cleaning a while back and I'm pretty sure I throwed a lot of that stuff out.
I ran into a similar issue on a small block ford/powerglide setup. The converter would hit the flexplate bolts because the OE flexplate bolts have a thinner bolt head, and I was using some stuff I had laying around. Good thing I caught it because it would have damaged a lot of expensive parts...flexplate, converter, transmission oil pump, crankshaft thrust surface and bearing, possibly the rest of the engine as well. Seen all of those happen directly because of exactly that.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Sounds like the best plan would be to get the replacement bolts from the dealer and then you will know that they are correct.
The ones I purchased had the flanged head, but don't have the shank portion. I was going to use the factory bolts with the purchased 2 I between them. I may just spend $20 on 2 oem ones.
Purchased 4 new kubota flywheel bolts today. $10 each today. I only had 1 that was right.