Anyone with a B2620/B2920/B3200/B3300SU?

[TRUCK3]

Trying to move forward on a CUT this summer and used/new market for CUTs seems to be pretty bad, at least here in the Northeast. Was planning on buying used and looking hard at the B2650 or a B2601. What I'm seeing is few used units and pricing close to a new LX2610. My local dealer has both LX2610s and LX2610SUs on order, but can't get a delivery date. Pricing-wise, I'm ok with new pricing on a LX2610SU if I could get one and would rather do that then pay almost new pricing on a used B2650 (or B2601).

I'm still looking used and come across a fair number of the B20 series and the B3200 and B3300SUs. Pricing on some of these seem more reasonable than the newer B2650s and B2601s out there. It seems as though the B20 series are smaller frame and the B3200/3300SUs are larger frame. These all seem to have 1/4 inching valve on the 3 pt rather than position control.

I initially dismissed the idea of the 1/4 inching valve, but I'm thinking hard maybe I should give one a try. I've read many forum threads and watched a few videos on the 1/4 inching valve. I think I understand the operation and it seems like it could work for me. I read the posts on position control and the "set-it and forget-it" benefit. I spent many years back in the day on ag tractors with both position and draft control. I don't remember ever being able to set and forget either one. I was constantly making adjustments on both. In fact, with draft control while moldboard plowing, I would keep my right hand on the draft control level to make very fine constant adjustments to keep the plow depth as close to uniform as possible. Same issue with position control, constantly making adjustments.

So what I'm thinking is that with either position control vs. 1/4 inching valve, I am going to need to make constant adjustments. The difference being how each works. For rear mount implements, I am planning on a BB, rotary cutter or flail, and tiller. For those with the B20 series models or the B3200/3300SU models, am thinking about the 1/4 inching valve right? Can you get the results you are looking for with the 1/4 inching valve vs. PC?

In rough terms, if I try to stay used, it could be a Kubota B series with the 1/4 inching valve with the other benefits of the Kubota (3 range hydro, good hydraulics, etc.) or a used Deere, likely more $$, two range hydro, etc. Other option could be a B2401, it is small frame with the gear drive, but pricing is reasonable in my view. My Kubota dealer also sells Yanmar and has SA424s in stock with decent pricing, but I don't know if I'm ready to buy a Yanmar vs. a Kubota.

I'd like to go Kubota if at all possible - I have a good local long-term dealer and I like the build of the Kubota's vs JD. My local JD dealer is now part of a large multi-state operation which has changed hands multiple times just in the last few years.

If these older Kubota models with 1/4 inching valve would work for me, it would open up a number of used Kubota options.

 

[PaulL]

What ground engaging work do you plan to do that the position control would matter for? I also find that I'm always adjusting when I do levelling, the adjustment approach is different between 1/4 inching and position control, but as you say, either way it's adjusting. And I don't do that much ground work anyway - most of my 3ph work is all the way up or all the way down (forks, transport, chipper).

New does have the benefit of financing.

 

[TRUCK3]

What ground engaging work do you plan to do that the position control would matter for? I also find that I'm always adjusting when I do levelling, the adjustment approach is different between 1/4 inching and position control, but as you say, either way it's adjusting. And I don't do that much ground work anyway - most of my 3ph work is all the way up or all the way down (forks, transport, chipper).

New does have the benefit of financing.

I was planning on a minimum of a box blade/blade, roto-tiller, and either a rotary cutter or flail mower. From my experience, control of the 3 pt isn't critical with the tiller, you just drop the 3 pt and tiller's weight and skid shoes will regulate position/depth of the tiller. If I remember right from my ag days, roto-tilling with a utility tractor, it wouldn't matter if I dropped the 3 pt with the draft control or position control, either way worked to fully drop the 3 pt.

For the rotary or flail mowers, I don't think 1/4 inch or PC would be a major difference. For the rotary cutter, precise 3 pt position control isn't that critical (close is good enough) and 1/4 inching and PC could give the same results. In fact, for the flail, I don't have experience with one, but it seems as though you drop the flail on the skid shoes and/or rollers. Seems like the tiller, implement itself sets the ground position.

Box blade would seem to the case where the more precise 3 pt control the better. I would say PC would be better in this case, still would need to make adjustments, but easier with PC. If I understand 1/4 inching valve correctly, you could make the same adjustments, or close to it, but it would be more work with the 1/4 inching control valve - maybe might even need to slow down a little so you can keep up with the ability to make 3 pt adjustments. I don't have any experience with the 1/4 inching valve, so I'm just going off what I read/watched and my ag utility tractor experience.

 

[PaulL]

Agree, tilling and flail/rotary cutter aren't super sensitive to adjustment. Tiller all the way down, rely on the shoes for depth. Flail / rotary cutter tend to be set and forget, they're not finish cutting so near enough is good enough. Can't be bothered fiddling with them all the time. If you care a lot you can get a rotary cutter with a rear wheel for height I think.

My experience with box blades and similar grading equipment is that you're constantly adjusting unless you're only doing minor tidy up work.

I had 1/4 inching on the BX. It worked fine. Move the lever up, it goes up. Move the lever down, it goes down. Let go of it when you're at the height you want. It's different than position control, but just as intuitive once you get used to it. The main thing you give up is "return to same setting", but I don't personally see that as especially useful on a box blade. If you really cared, you could get top and tilt. On a box blade top effectively raises and lowers the rear cutting edge.....it changes the depth of the scarifiers too, but close enough. And tilt could be useful (or so people say).

 

[ItBmine]

I have a B2620. has over 800 hours now and has moved 330 tonnes of gravel up my hills to build one mile of bush road which I box blade up and down weekly. It has been absolutely trouble free. Only issue I ever had was the weld broke on the FEL lever.
Anyway, position control is nicer but 1/4 inching works when you get used to it. The biggest disadvantage to 1/4 inching is it takes a little more time to set up to start your passes when you are doing fine grading. To get you desired height set right.
So if the tractor you find is in the best shape for the best price and it has 1/4 inching, don't be deterred by it. You can get used to it after some time..

 

[Dieseldonato]

So my 2 cents, grew up on a little farm, position and draft control were standard on those tractors. Moved off the farm, started working heavy duty diesel, then township and operating for a spell. My B7510 has the 1/4 inching valve and I can't say it's as nice as a properly set up position w/ properly set up draft Control, but it's not nearly as bad as what moat make it out to be. I'm a 3pt fidgeter as well, constantly making adjustments if there's no skids or wheels. You actually have to move the lever less for small adjustments imo. Finger tip movements really, no sawing back and forth. If it's a set it and forget it operation either works just fine.
Now if you want to feel true pain get an old cub cadet with a cat 0 3 point. They are a massive pain to get adjusted just right.

 

[johnjk]

I have a B3200. Great machine. Primarily for brush hogging and snow removal. A bit of box blade work on the driveway. Just picked up an EA 4’ disc for garden work. My only complaint is the lack of SSQA for the FEL. I can remedy that aftermarket though.

 

[TRUCK3]

Appreciate the info on the tractors. I think the B20 series tractors and probably the B3200 are now at the top of my list. Good specs, within my budget, and there seems to be a fair number out there. Looks as though the B20s were popular tractors, I see many more than the B2630 or B3030 models.

I don't think I want to eliminate these B20s models or the B3200 just due to the 1/4 inching valve. Of course if I can find a B2601 at a decent price that would an option. B2650s are probably out of reach based on current pricing. Pricing on the B2650s I'm seeing are too close to new for me. Local dealer has both LX2610s and LX2610SUs on the way. I figure if I'm going to spend close to new, I should be getting a new tractor.

 

[number two]

The B2630/3030 models are keepers!
Tier 2 emissions,position control,strong hydraulics,deluxe 3 point hitch,tilt wheel,independent PTO,modern styling with the best of the older stuff.
Worth the search.
Good Luck!