A few days ago I was moving lots of dirt on my acreage. It was +26'c(79f) outside, after a few hours the tractor was very warm, about half way on the temp gauge and the hydraulics were hot, couldn't hold my hand on the lift cylinders. The next day same temp and same running for a few hours but this time I took the side panels off. I noticed a difference in temp. The B2601 ran a bit cooler with the side panels off, the hydraulics still got warm but not as hot too. If I was working in my bush I'll keep them on to help with sticks not trying to stab the motor, but for moving dirt or gravel around sure. Another thing I noticed that helped out engine temps is I switch to Shell Rotella T6 5W40. I know some don't like synthetic oil, but where I live northern Alberta we get temps from -45'c to + 40'c. The other thing I noticed after the oil switch was a extra 50 RPM on the tach @ wot.
B2601 running cooler.
- Thread starter Trev450r
- Start date
Try removing removing the screen in front of the radiator, then take a hose and make sure the radiator is clean. Don't use a pressure washer. I have seen a build up a dirt and dust start to clog radiator.
My B2601 barely registers the temp, even after 4 hours of mowing. If the radiator is clear and there is good airflow thru it, then maybe there is a circulation problem? Is the belt tight and not slipping? Antifreeze level? How does the antifreeze look? (Clean, no oil). Wow -45C is darn cold (-45F). When you changed oil, no sign of water? (light milky look, foamy light brown). Could be a thermostat? Hoses look good? Just ideas of what I would check, hope it helps?
My B2601 has 70hrs so far, everything is good on it. When I was moving dirt it was wet heavy clay, and was taking heaping buckets maxing the hydraulics and the ground is fairly soft(this job should be done with a skid steer with tracks).The other thing I wasn't worried about the temp, when I took the side panels off it did run a little cooler. The most of the time with my B2601 the temp gauge barely moves, and when it's below freezing I block off part of the rad so it runs a little warmer. My B2601 runs great, it was being worked hard the other day, and that's why I have it.
I don't think the temp gage running at the mid point is an issue.
BUT the question I would ask myself, is whether the gage is accurate...
For example, if the standard thermostat is designed to keep the engine at a minimum temperature, what should the temperature gage display at that temperature?
I feel totally normal if my temp gages read half way or a bit above when working my tractors. Never felt the cylinders though...never felt the need to do so.
When my temp gages move towards the hot side, I clean the screen on one side of the radiator and vacuum debris from the other side. Works every time...
BUT the question I would ask myself, is whether the gage is accurate...
For example, if the standard thermostat is designed to keep the engine at a minimum temperature, what should the temperature gage display at that temperature?
I feel totally normal if my temp gages read half way or a bit above when working my tractors. Never felt the cylinders though...never felt the need to do so.
When my temp gages move towards the hot side, I clean the screen on one side of the radiator and vacuum debris from the other side. Works every time...
I was doing hours of loader work, and I just happen to grap one when I was off the tractor. Like I said I wasn't worried, I just noticed a difference in temp with the side panels off. I got my woodchipper is a few days ago, and running that for 3 hours straight, the temp gauge was not even at the quarter mark. But off topic, but involving temperature, my TRX450R would makes the most hp when it was about 5' from over heating.
That doesn’t compute to be the result of the oil change, since WOT is established by the engine governor and would ignore oil type.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
hmm... 50 RPM is about 2% of 3000 RPM ( WOT ??). Not too sure you can actually read that on the pseudo-analog meter.They take pulses from the alternator and convert them into RPM. Overall it's a simple program to code but plenty of places to lose precision. On the BX23S ,the tach displays up to 4000 RPM,so 50 RPM is 1.25% of full scale. Aside from conversion /calculation errors, there's also possible errors in the electronics that drives the RPM needle. I'd have to see the actual schematics of the 'dash' as well as source code. But 'little' things like NOT compensating for temperature, or having feedback from the coils driving the needle will affect accuracy. If the meter is controlled by a DAC,then is it 8,10,12 or 16 bits ? Easy to have 1-2% error. lectronically there's a lot that can account for the 'increase' in RPM but don't forget that a small wear in the guv parts can also make the engine rev a wee bit faster.
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I know what your saying. On my B2601 there is the orange pto 540 speed marker on the tach. Before I changed the factory oil(most likely break-in oil) the tach would not go past the orange bar. After the oil change it will sit just under 3000 rpm. Oil does play a part in how a motor will run ie(I ran a motor oil in my TRX450R that on the dyno it added 1.5 hp) After the first oil change I noticed my B2601 also sounds different too, less ratlely at low idle.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Likely the hard work of digging clay caused the hydraulic system t get hotter than normal. If I recall the cooler for the hydraulics is in front of the radiator. The excess heat in the hydraulic cooler helped heat the air as it passed into the radiator, making the engine temp warmer than usual. Nevertheless, halfway is fine. I mow with my tractors, and they frequently plug the radiator and A/C condenser screens, which I will notice as the A/C gets warmer and the engine temp goes up. I've had the gauge hit the red zone and basically be at the point of boiling - it happens fast when the radiator gets plugged.
Not sure if I'm on the same page- but here go's- I once owned a chev.nova that ran what I thought was too hot- Bought a can of "Keep Cool" for the radiator- cooled that boy down like a charm.Not sure it's still on the market- but it worked..Just looked it up-Yep still on the market-- Google it..