Mower upgrade to RFM?

[trueg50]

After another evening of long mowing time, clogging chute, and a terrible ride, I'm on the hunt for a better mowing solution. I currently mow a ~.6 acre area (that will expand over the years) with a cheap 30" Troybilt TB30 and a ~1 acre field in the woods that could go RFM or Rotary cutter in the near future. The areas are some what broken up but don't have many items to mow around. My TB30 was a good $400 mower when I had a smaller property with slow growing grass, but at the new property the soil is rich clay so I have to spend 1.5-2 hours mowing thick wet grass. I have a B2601 w/R14 tires that I take on trails in the back woods (~60 acres) and around the house, plow snow with it etc... I have 2" wheel spacers, and a step so I don't think a MMM is an option (and seems like a pain to get on/off).

Looking at my options the Rear Finish Mower (60") is very attractive due to the price point ($1200-2000 on Craigslist), as well as letting me use my existing tractor, and possibly forgoing needing a rotary cutter too for the light weeds. Looking at other tractor/zero turn mowers it looks like >$3,000-4,000 to get anything decent. I learn towards an RFM but I hear mixed reviews on them; some say they work great, others that they are so-so and a zero-turn is the way to go. What are people finding with them on their B2601-ish sized tractors?

 

[Captain13]

I use a RFM and a zero turn on a five acre piece of land. Zero turn is one acre around the house and RFM in the field. After cutting, you can’t tell which one I used because both are smooth. I have 20 pecan trees and a few pines in the field. The zero turn is definitely more convenient for that because I can get closer to the trees. However, it’s a field so I don’t worry about ”making donuts” around the trees. The RFM is an 84” so it gets a lot cut in a short time running in 5th gear (8 speed) on my tractor. I can run in 6 th gear but burn more fuel doing so.

 

[imnukensc]

Looks like the OP has very few obstacles to cut around. A RFM should do nicely.

 

[Sporto]

I have the 60in Rear Finish Mower on my B2601 and it works great on the open areas of my property(about 3 acres). There is no chute clogging issues even when the grass gets really heavy just some minor windrows, However we have started planting a fair amount of trees and hedging so are starting to think about a zero turn for around the house and trees etc.

 

[Biker1mike]

I cut the majority of my property with the 60 inch rear finishing mower. With practice you can swing that rear very close to the trees. I use low range/4wd on the hills and high range/2wd on the level.
The area closest to the house is an obstacle course and is done with a push mower.
It is hard to see where one ends the other begins. The key is to keep the blades sharp and try not to use it as a bush hog. It will take out some serious brush !!!
The only downside to my King kutter deck is that it is heavy. Once removed from the tractor it is a bear to move.

 

[Captain13]

Up around my house is flower beds and trees and thus the need for a zero turn. My across the street neighbor mows his three acres with a zero turn. he has mentioned that he is planning on buying a tractor this year. his ZT has a 5 foot deck and thinks it would be best to use a tractor in the field. I agree.

 

[Motion]

I cut 11 acres with 135 pecan trees every week with a 84 inch rear discharge finish mower coupled to a Ford 4000 in 6th gear and have a Gravely 72inch with the Kubota diesel as a back up. It takes about the same amount of time but the the Ford gives me time view tree conditions and irrigation system.

 

[trueg50]

Thanks for the input everyone, I feel a bit better looking at an RFM. I might pickup a Brushhog HDTH5 I saw for sale, but supposedly its 672 lb! that might be a little much for my B2601 without the loader (to avoid turf damage) though the ground is at least very flat. I have to laugh when I picture getting an RFM that is twice the weight of my entire current ride-on mower!

 

[Biker1mike]

Thanks for the input everyone, I feel a bit better looking at an RFM. I might pickup a Brushhog HDTH5 I saw for sale, but supposedly its 672 lb! that might be a little much for my B2601 without the loader (to avoid turf damage) though the ground is at least very flat. I have to laugh when I picture getting an RFM that is twice the weight of my entire current ride-on mower!

My b with the plow attached is a few hundred pounds lighter than yours. The finishing deck is about the same. I only really feel the weight when going down my steep hill. The deck does try to push the tractor. Easy to control by using low range and 4wd. Down hill in 2wd the rear tires tend to skid and tear the lawn as the tractor trannie fights the weight.
My 3 pt hitch is not strong enough to lift the entire deck so adjusting cut height requires removing the entire leg from the deck to get the wheel adjusters on. Easy enough , once you figure it out.

Good luck !

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Flail mower all the way, it will do a clean cut on grass and weeds and will take abuse!

 

[DDCD]

Flail mower all the way, it will do a clean cut on grass and weeds and will take abuse!

I want a flail mower to replace my rotary cutter. Been looking at the Woodmaxx 6' with hammer blades for my mole mounds and uneven areas. I have not used a finish mower but based upon many hours of internet I think I'll go with the flail when I can afford it.

 

[Missouribound]

I've got a B2320 with a 6" RFM. I also have a Cub Cadet zero turn 50".
It is nearly impossible to tell the difference in the cut. The RFM "feathers" the discharge eliminating any rows or grass build up. On a windy day I really appreciate the grass not blowing back into my face. My only drawback is that the ground here in Missouri is a fairly thin layer of top soil over ledge rock so if the ground is damp at all the Kubota scrubs the dirt right off the rock when turning. Spring mowing is limited to the zero turn because of that but as the season progresses and it drys out the RFM is the way to go.
I still have to trim of course and use the zero turn around the tighter areas of the property.
And you are right about the weight of the mower. Wheelies are pretty normal when in transport mode unless you have some weights on the front or the loader. But weights are easy enough to come by even if you find a barbell set at a thrift shop and fabricate your own holder. The problem does increase if you use a quick hitch....but trying to hook up the PTO around those is anything but "quick".

 

[trueg50]

Thanks for your help everyone, I picked up an FDR1660 over the weekend and was pretty impressed. It needs some work (new drive belt, bolts for the lower link arms, and floating top link) but it took dropped my time from 90 minutes to a little over an hour, and that was with lots of on/off the tractor, checking things etc.. Lacking a floating top link my QH15 top link wasn't really attached so it had a good bit of play. Cut quality with the even tall grass was great. Power was impressive too, I backed over a 1 ft wide, dense clump of lilies and didn't hear/feel a thing. I was also able to get under most of our short trees.