The only issue with doing it by the book is that it's a little easier to get confused while doing it (at least for me).
Using eoic it's a lot harder to screw it up. You're just doing one cylinder at a time rather than trying to look at a cheat sheet to know which is open and closed. SBF, SBC, BBM, "LS", Lima 2.3, 385 series, 335 series engines....I've messed with all of them at one point or another. When you start putting cams in them-which increase the duration, lift, etc, you almost have to use eoic, especially when the duration gets on up there. The one in my little SBF powered Maverick is 292 degrees of duration on the intake side and 300 on the exhaust, close to an inch of lift. At TDC the valves are closed but not for very long because of the duration. Thus, when the intake is about closed, I can adjust the ex because the ex is on the base circle. Then when the ex starts to open, the intake is real close to being on the base, so it can be checked. Same deal for all 4 stroke engines that need valve checks and kubota is no different other than it doesn't have as much cam duration. Not nearly as much.
Kind of rare for a kubota to need much adjustment at 1000 hours use, but they are usually a couple thousandths on the looser side by then. If much more than that there is normally another issue. The big reason for checking them is to find that other issue before it swarms, say, a rare loose valve seat or whatever.
Yes go/no-go feeler gauges are wonderful.
