B2650 No Start, No Crank

[TalonX]

My B2650 was running fine, then I parked it overnight and when I came back to finish the job I was doing the tractor will not start. The dash lights up, the two red oil pressure and glow plug lights come on. One click and then nothing, no turn-over. I charged the battery to full and checked the connections. That's fine. I did some searching and pretty much the consensus on a no start condition seems to be the HST safety switch on the rocker pedal so I ran out and switched it out thinking that it would solve the problem but unfortunately no luck. What else could be causing this? The 5 amp fuse people seem to refer to kills the dash lights so I'm guessing it's not that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Russell King]

See if the smaller wire is connected to the solenoid

Carefully see what happens if you supply 12volts directly to that solenoid terminal but be sure you know what you are doing

See if you get 12 volts to that small wire terminal when the key is turned to start

 

[Dieseldonato]

Basics first, don't go probing wires just yet. Does it crank? Do you hear the fuel selinoid click? (It's very loud) have you checked that you didn't bump and of the controls or forget to dissinguage the pto. Check all the fuses. In the owners manual there is a prerequisite to start chart. Check it out. Then its time to break out the multi meter and check a few things.

 

[Henro]

Basics first, don't go probing wires just yet. Does it crank? Do you hear the fuel selinoid click? (It's very loud) have you checked that you didn't bump and of the controls or forget to dissinguage the pto. Check all the fuses. In the owners manual there is a prerequisite to start chart. Check it out. Then its time to break out the multi meter and check a few things.

All sound advice...except maybe for one point...I wish I had my original hearing back!

For me, I wish that solenoid click WAS very loud. LOL...with a tear running down my cheek...

 

[fried1765]

My B2650 was running fine, then I parked it overnight and when I came back to finish the job I was doing the tractor will not start. The dash lights up, the two red oil pressure and glow plug lights come on. One click and then nothing, no turn-over. I charged the battery to full and checked the connections. That's fine. I did some searching and pretty much the consensus on a no start condition seems to be the HST safety switch on the gas pedal so I ran out and switched it out thinking that it would solve the problem but unfortunately no luck. What else could be causing this? The 5 amp fuse people seem to refer to kills the dash lights so I'm guessing it's not that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Did you check condition of both battery cables at BOTH ends?
Remove them, clean them, carefully inspect them!

 

[Dieseldonato]

All sound advice...except maybe for one point...I wish I had my original hearing back!

For me, I wish that solenoid click WAS very loud. LOL...with a tear running down my cheek...

Yeah I understand that. Different hearing levels for everyone. Wish I would have taken better care of mine as well. At any rate you can also lay your hand on it and feel it clunk in.

 

[TalonX]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I've checked all the fuses and they're fine. I took off both battery cables and cleaned the connections. I've double checked with my battery tester the battery is both charged and good to go. I moved all the levers around to see if maybe one of them wasn't set properly and nothing. The only thing I noticed is the light on the dash for Parking Brake engagement does not illuminate but I can't imagine that would matter too much? I tried jumping the starter and it turns over but does not start.

Turn the key, one loud click then a quieter click when I turn the key further to engage the glow plug then nothing at all. No crank at all. No warning light, no error.

It would sure be swell with all these sensors if they put up some sort of code so those of us who actually use our tractors for work could easily repair them without chasing our tails.

 

[Russell King]

Sure sounds like a safety switch not allowing the voltage through to starter AND not through to the fuel cut off/on solenoid. Does the tractor have some computer system that monitors the presence of the operator in the seat?

Since you mentioned that the parking brake light is acting differently try to move that lever or pedal while holding the key in the crank position.

 

[Dieseldonato]

That's light is something to look into, but it could just be a bulb. I don't have a wiring schematic for your tractor but you can unplug the safety switches and make a little jumper to narrow them down to see which one it acting up. If it's wired like most they all need to be in a certain state for it to start. At this point I would say it is also time to grab a test light or meter and check for power and ground at the fuel shut off solenoid, and (having a helper would be best) checking to see if your getting power to the signal wire on the starter. (I'm assuming your not, hence the bad safety switch. But it's easy enough to check first) I have back probes that I can slide in the back of most connectors to check for power or ground state. Or you can test the switches for continuity with a multi meter. Either way if you don't have a workshop manual buy one or download one so you have the wiring schematic and you'll also know what switches need to be in what state (open or closed) for it to start. Ots just a process of elimination of what went wrong.

 

[number two]

Assuming your HST pedal is centered and well-lubricated,you may very well have a problem with the OPC(Operator Control System).
Good Luck!

 

[nbryan]

The only thing I noticed is the light on the dash for Parking Brake engagement does not illuminate but I can't imagine that would matter too much?

First off my B2650 has no parking brake warning indicator, it's a 2017. But you say yours does? My op manual says that indicator is only on the B3350/3350SU only. Haven't noticed one on mine! Could use one, though. Have forgotten too many times to release the parking brake and carrying on work with it engaged, until the loud hydro whine wakes me up.

First make sure you're:
- sitting in the seat
- parking brake engaged and lever locked
- Speed control pedal in neutral position
- PTO lever off
- Speed set lever off (cruise disengaged)
- Range set lever in neutral N
- Loader lever locked
- 3-point position control lever at bottom
- throttle set above idle - i shoot for 1200-1300 rpm

If still not engaging the starter, and after all you've described trying, I'd have a look at whether the parking brake lock lever mechanism is properly engaging safety switch behind the dash panel. The switch is a push button that the arm has to engage when the parking lever locks the brake mechanism down. It's adjustable by loosening the set nut and rotating. Mine stopped contacting and working after I tightened up my brake pedal travel to minimum specs shown in the op manual maintenance section. The brake arm no longer pushed the button enough, if at all.

Hope that helps.

 

[TalonX]

First off my B2650 has no parking brake warning indicator, it's a 2017. But you say yours does? My op manual says that indicator is only on the B3350/3350SU only. Haven't noticed one on mine! Could use one, though. Have forgotten too many times to release the parking brake and carrying on work with it engaged, until the loud hydro whine wakes me up.

First make sure you're:
- sitting in the seat
- parking brake engaged and lever locked
- Speed control pedal in neutral position
- PTO lever off
- Speed set lever off (cruise disengaged)
- Range set lever in neutral N
- Loader lever locked
- 3-point position control lever at bottom
- throttle set above idle - i shoot for 1200-1300 rpm

If still not engaging the starter, and after all you've described trying, I'd have a look at whether the parking brake lock lever mechanism is properly engaging safety switch behind the dash panel. The switch is a push button that the arm has to engage when the parking lever locks the brake mechanism down. It's adjustable by loosening the set nut and rotating. Mine stopped contacting and working after I tightened up my brake pedal travel to minimum specs shown in the op manual maintenance section. The brake arm no longer pushed the button enough, if at all.

Hope that helps.

According to the manual (I never actually noticed when the tractor was in operation) the parking brake has an indicator right on the dash by all the other warning lights. I'll give your advice a shot, I have been busy with other work and the tractor has been sitting in the field for a few weeks now.

Edit: No luck. I guess my next thing is to start taking the dash apart? I've been disappointed with this tractor since day 1., I've had to call the dealer out a few times and now another no-start condition and it's out of warranty. Not that that stopped them from charging me for what should have been warranty work anyway.

 

[johnjk]

Sounds similar to what my B1700 liked to do. Check your safety interlocks. On my B1700 there are 3 and on my B3200 I only know of one. These switches have the 12V the starter solenoid needs to send power to the starter running through them in series. Check for operation (open/close) AND check for voltage drop across them as well. On my 1700 they operate (open/close) to complete the circuit but the voltage due to dirty contacts in the switches gives me around 6.7V at the starter. To resolve, you can replace the offending switch or wire in a relay that needs less than 12V to close and send 12V to the starter. In my case there was no relay on that starting circuit so I wired one in. Replacement safety switches were $70-80 each. Two relays, mounting socket with pigtails was $9. Took me around an hour to do the job and the 1700 starts great. All safety switches still in series. You can also jumper out each of those safety switches one at a time to see which one is causing the issue. On the 1700 I had one on the tranny, one on the clutch and one on the seat. At that point hopefully she is running and you can get back to work

 

[whitetiger]

How did you adjust the HST safety switch?
A simple way to test the OPC system is to remove the dash so you can access the OPC module connector. With the Key switch in the RUN position, your test light should show power at every wire in the connector except for the BLACK wire. It is the ground.
If one of the wires does not light your test light, see what colors that wire is and look at the wiring schematic to see what is on that current. You can test the system in a matter of minutes.

 

[TalonX]

So I took my dash apart last night to do some tests. I think I may have figured out what the issue is.
Time to break out the soldering iron I guess. Hopefully that's the only spot that was eaten...

After soldering it back together it started first crank. At least now I know all my sensors are in good condition since I tested everything before opening my dash. Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[johnjk]

How did you adjust the HST safety switch?
A simple way to test the OPC system is to remove the dash so you can access the OPC module connector. With the Key switch in the RUN position, your test light should show power at every wire in the connector except for the BLACK wire. It is the ground.
If one of the wires does not light your test light, see what colors that wire is and look at the wiring schematic to see what is on that current. You can test the system in a matter of minutes.

You can adjust the switch position in or out to make contact. If you are dropping voltage across the switch, then you need to replace it. I did not see any way to get inside and clean it

 

[whitetiger]

You can adjust the switch position in or out to make contact. If you are dropping voltage across the switch, then you need to replace it. I did not see any way to get inside and clean it

The question was how he knew that the switch was properly adjusted as the unit would not crank, and he would not be able to hear the fuel solenoid click. I wondered if he had an ohmmeter connected to the switch to be able to adjust it so the contacts were closed when the pedal is in the neutral position.

 

[EricL]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I've checked all the fuses and they're fine. I took off both battery cables and cleaned the connections. I've double checked with my battery tester the battery is both charged and good to go. I moved all the levers around to see if maybe one of them wasn't set properly and nothing. The only thing I noticed is the light on the dash for Parking Brake engagement does not illuminate but I can't imagine that would matter too much? I tried jumping the starter and it turns over but does not start.

Turn the key, one loud click then a quieter click when I turn the key further to engage the glow plug then nothing at all. No crank at all. No warning light, no error.

It would sure be swell with all these sensors if they put up some sort of code so those of us who actually use our tractors for work could easily repair them without chasing our tails.

Talonx did you ever resolve this? Its the exact same symptoms I am having with my B2650. Parked it last week, came out to start today and nothing. Same exact click pattern you describe then turn key to start, no noise at all. Jumped the starter and starter engaged so not battery or solenoid

regards, Eric

 

[thebicman]

He posted the problem in post #15. Something chewed his wiring.

 

[EricL]

He posted the problem in post #15. Something chewed his wiring.

Thanks so much