Garage/Workshop Build

[Thunder chicken]

Glad you were able to push through, nothing worse than something like that happening….. but don’t feel bad, Murphy helps out a lot around here too! That’s a fair bit of back and forth with a bucket full of cement!

 

[Henro]

Slab is done.
View attachment 78738

The ready-mix was at the end of the driveway near the snowblower. So I was using the tractor from there to the slab.

About 20 loads away from being done, my front tire poped off. No time fix this. So I continued with a poped off tire for the rest. It was difficult, but still easier than a wheelbarrow. In the end, it seems like I haven't damaged the tire. But the wheel is full of mud. So I took it to a local car repair shop so that they can clean it. So now I don't have a tractor until monday...

At least I'm glad this part is done.

You might consider getting the front tires foam filled. Not that expensive since they are small, and flats and other issues like you had will be a thing of the past.

Did it on both my tractors long ago...never looked back.

 

[awesome]

You might consider getting the front tires foam filled. Not that expensive since they are small, and flats and other issues like you had will be a thing of the past.

Did it on both my tractors long ago...never looked back.

Never heard about this. Does the foam replace air completely?

 

[Henro]

Never heard about this. Does the foam replace air completely?

Yes. No air in there at all. I actually now have all four tires on my BX foam filled. As does my son in law on his BX23S.

But the fronts are much smaller than the rears, so the price is much less. I think all four tires on the BX23s cost something like $400 for my son in law. I am such a believer in the increased stability, and like the SIL a lot, so I paid half...LOL

You need to go to some kind of industrial tire place to get it done. Must leave the tires overnight, and they likely only fill tires once per week. That way for us anyway...

 

[awesome]

Walls are up. The challenge now will be to square a level everything. I'm planning on putting the trusses up on the weekend of the 22nd.

The design has changed a bit from my original plan as posted in #1. The garage door is now oriented on the east side. The floor is also 2ft longer, so I had to build another truss. It was way cheaper to copy one of the ones I got than to get the manufacturer to build another one. It was easy to build since I just had to nail a few 2x4s on a factory-made truss and build from there.

One thing I'm disapointed: I emailed the truss manufacturer to see if I can suspend shelves from the trusses (as opposed to sitting them on legs to the floor, eating up room space) and they said I would need to double up the trusses if I want to suspend weight. I'm still not sure if I'd rather do that than to make legs.

Look at the size of the opening. Plenty of room for tractor and the riding-mower. I'm.glad I listened to you guys and made a 10ft door.

It hasn't rained for about 2w now and nothing forecasted until next sunday so the soil is all dry. Way easier for the tractor. We're getting temperatures in the 30s these days so very hot to work outside. I'm gonna need to put the garage on hold and work on the garden now. I wanted to build some kind of 3ph attachment for making rows but I didnct have time for time. Project for next year. The tractor is being utilized a lot these days. At 2.50$/L for diesel, my hobby is getting expensive.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: suspending weight on trusses..

'roof' trusses are usually made to support the weight of the roof ( what's on top ). You need a DIFFERENT type of truss when you want to put weight(stuff) ON the bottom chord !!

if you look online, you'll see trusses for 'garage with loft' are way different that 'garage roof only'.

Idiot next door stored a LOT of weighty things and broke a truss. This was one of 7 trusses ,40' span, 72' long shop,built in 1963

side note: If possible, consider installing an 8" tall I-beam on the N-S walls,with solid studs underneath. You've got a GREAT opprotunity to do it now... and it's really 'helpful' ! I have TWO trolleys and chain hoists on mine,makes it easy to lift front end of riders to service decks, lift heavy things onto workbench, split full size tractors for clutches.......
I know, money's tight but........ now it's EASY to install......think of it as a lifetime investment.

 

[awesome]

side note: If possible, consider installing an 8" tall I-beam on the N-S walls,with solid studs underneath.

with a 24' span, I believe I would need a post in the middle, wich would be a bit cumbersome. Also, I would probably need a pad under that slab at that place.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I KNOW for a FACT you do NOT need a post ! I'll post pictures once I figure out WHERE I left the camera , this time.... I know it's a 4by8 Ibeam, 23 1/2' long, sits on 2 of those 'basement jack posts', on the floor slab( 4" thick). Never had any issues, even splitting the D-14 (full size 40HP tractor).
In your case ,you just add 2by4 studs where the I beam will go. 4 studs is 6" 'wide', more than enough to support it.

By installing on top of the top plate, YOU gain the 8" I lost ,adding it after the fact( I didn't have a choice...). If you go to install a ceiling , you simply go 'up and over' the beam.Primer white painted partical board is what I used(cheap back then) , today, I'd use white 'tin' sheets. cleaner and brighter. I'm also replacing all the old Fl lights with LEDs ,when on sale at Princess Auto.

attached some pix. it is a 4by8 I beam, 25#/foot (?)
Jay

 

[awesome]

I KNOW for a FACT you do NOT need a post !

Hmmm, this is very convincing. Now I really want one. Thanks for adding 1k$ to my garage. Haha. I'll inquire tomorow about the price of such a beam.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I plowed my neighbour's driveway about 5-6 times......come spring the beam 'magically' appeared in my garage !
I LOVE the legally 'dumpster diving'.....

 

[awesome]

Anyone have a suggestion on how to protect the OSB of the roof if I'm gonna need to wait before installing the shingles? I'm gonna need to build a false dormer and this part will be a challenge for me. So it might be a week or 2 before I can put the shingles on the rest of the roof. I'm guessing I can lay down the black paper and this should be good enough to protect for 2w. But apparently this is dangerous since I could slip if I walk on it.

Tarps would keep humidity but I guess it's the best I could do. Or am I overthinking this for 2w exposure? I feel like I'm gonna get mixed answers

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I laid down 'ice and water shield' on 100% of my house addition back in 2014. while 'code' says only required for the first 3' (ice dam protection...), decided to protect the ENTIRE roof, cost was minimal compared to alternatives like 'tar paper' that WILL blow off during a bad rainstorm....
For my 24by24 garage the 'experts' said only 3 roof vents needed. I had to add 2 MORE,even then it's still dang HOT in the attic area. I also have 100% continuous soffit venting,something else 'they' said wasn't necessary(same cost BTW).

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Anyone have a suggestion on how to protect the OSB of the roof if I'm gonna need to wait before installing the shingles? I'm gonna need to build a false dormer and this part will be a challenge for me. So it might be a week or 2 before I can put the shingles on the rest of the roof. I'm guessing I can lay down the black paper and this should be good enough to protect for 2w. But apparently this is dangerous since I could slip if I walk on it.

Tarps would keep humidity but I guess it's the best I could do. Or am I overthinking this for 2w exposure? I feel like I'm gonna get mixed answers

You could use heavier 30# felt. Use extra tacks, especially around the edges. Maybe use temporary lath. Stay off until the dew/frost dries.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

FWIW... If you use Ice/water stuff it SEALS every nail hole of every nail used to secure the shingles.....due to the sticky rubbery backing....

 

[RCW]

Ice and Water Shield is code here too. Maybe 6'(?).

If it were planned on your garage, I've seen just the ice/water shield used as temporary roofing material for a month or more.

 

[awesome]

interesting. I'll check how much more it would cost me to do ice&water shield all over

 

[GreensvilleJay]

it's cheaper to do it NOW ,than repair the roof in a few years....

 

[Thunder chicken]

Some of the other underlayment products are good for some time exposed….. Nova Shield is one. Ice and water shield all over is good as mentioned, but you’ll never peel it off when it comes time to reshingle in 18 years (assuming you’re using the 40 year or lifetime shingles that last 15-20 years!) Don’t waste your money using the cheap 3 tab…..

 

[Dieseldonato]

I'd only ice and water shield where it needs to be. Being paranoid about leaks means you either shouldn't be roofing, or the person that did the roof shouldn't be doing it.
As mentioned there are several underlayments that are superior to normal felt. (Aka tar paper) for steeper pitches I've come to appreciate a brand called gator skin. It's quite grippy and will take a few good rains before the roof goes up. There are other brands that work just as well im sure.
Just wondering, why not just put a metal roof on? Likely be the last roof you would need to put on if done properly. The cost (used to be) is fractionally more then a complete shingle system. I had just over $3k in the roofing, underlayment, and all supplies to do ny 2100 Sq ft roof last spring. Just over $2k for 50 year shingles.( normally only last 20sih years around here.)

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The '35 year' shingles on my roof lasted about 7 and 1/2. went to steel(Hy-Grade) for $2K, back in 2014.
2 reasons to buy steel
1) it's the LAST roof YOU have to put on YOUR house
2) it APPRECIATES in value, when you sell the house.

ANY kind of self-sealing covering 100% of the roof sheathing is a good investment