G 52l0 Throttle Lever Removal

[Smokeless]

I need to remove the throttle lever on my G 5200 lawn tractor. I think I need to anyway, trying to access the wiring under the instrument panel and I dont see how the instrument panel will come off untill the throttle lever is removed.

My problem is the mower just flat stopped running. I have battery at the starter and fusible link, i think the safety switches (2) via the BW wires are faulty and I want to eliminate them, My plan is to tie the BW wires together.

So back to throttle lever. Any idea on how to remove, would appreciate some help.

 

[cliffboyer]

Best bet is to remove battery and the two metal screens (directly under the steering wheel & one where PTO lever is). This will grant you access to most everything in the dash. Rather tight confines, but workable.

As I recall, there are two safety interlock switches. One is on the PTO lever, and (I think) the other is cable actuated by the seat, which ties in with the throttle assembly.

I had some issues with this, and found mice had chewed insulation off wires, and was shorting. This caused PTO to not engage. Simple matter of fixing damaged wires and all works as it should.

Would caution against bypassing this safety. I want that PTO to stop dead (engine too) if my butt leaves that seat suddenly.

 

[Russell King]

You can get to Kubota.com and use the illustrated parts list to see how it generally fits together

 

[Smokeless]

Cliff and Russ, thank you for posting, will investigate switches soon, much obliged

 

[Smokeless]

I guess i am going to have to get underneath this beast.

1. I see NO switch near the seat, just a cable that connects to the fuel shut off valve. Once off the seat, it closes the valve.

2. No apparent switch on the foot pedal, so it must be underneath the metal

more later

 

[Smokeless]

I guess i am going to have to get underneath this beast.

1. I see NO switch near the seat, just a cable that connects to the fuel shut off valve. Once off the seat, it closes the valve.

2. No apparent switch on the foot pedal, so it must be underneath the metal

more later

Ok, no power at the selenoid when the key is turned to start. Still could not identify where the supposedly two safety switches located and I need to confirm the switch is not faulty. Guess I will work on that tomorrow.

 

[cliffboyer]

See if this helps. I remember seeing two switches in the schematic. Solenoid power goes thru both switches, but second switch might only be present if a gear drive (switch on clutch pedal). As you know, these must be closed for tractor to start. You are correct, the seat actuated cable kills engine when PTO is engaged and you raise off seat.

 

[whitetiger]

Ok, no power at the selenoid when the key is turned to start. Still could not identify where the supposedly two safety switches located and I need to confirm the switch is not faulty. Guess I will work on that tomorrow.

The hydro pedal switch is mounted beneath the RH side of the operator's floor, just to the inside of the pedal. It is hard to access without removing the deck.
The PTO switch is mounted at the PTO control lever pivot.
If the unit is a gear drive, the clutch pedal switch is mounted right above the pedal pivot, below the operator's platform.

 

[Smokeless]

See if this helps. I remember seeing two switches in the schematic. Solenoid power goes thru both switches, but second switch might only be present if a gear drive (switch on clutch pedal). As you know, these must be closed for tractor to start. You are correct, the seat actuated cable kills engine when PTO is engaged and you raise off seat.
View attachment 78994

Thanks for posting, I see the two safety switches, just trying to identify where they are physically located. Believe the next post satisfies that, but appreciate the post

 

[Smokeless]

The hydro pedal switch is mounted beneath the RH side of the operator's floor, just to the inside of the pedal. It is hard to access without removing the deck.
The PTO switch is mounted at the PTO control lever pivot.
If the unit is a gear drive, the clutch pedal switch is mounted right above the pedal pivot, below the operator's platform.

BINGO!!!! Much obliged. Dunno bout removing deck to access the switch, getting a little long in the tooth.

My Dad purchased this mower new around 1986, HST model. He has since passed and I just hated to see the mower go for scrap. A whopping 3600 hours and the motor is still strong.

My instincts tell me it is less aggravation to simply bypass the switches by tying the two BW switch wires together. Yes, i understand the potential issues

Thanks a ton for identifying their physical whereabouts. I will see if it is something obvious such as wiring or switch function.

BTW, have yet to rule out ignition switch, but I believe safety switches are far more problematic

 

[Smokeless]

Well, process is slow but moving ahead. I was able to identify the blue with white tracer that (I think) links the two safety switches in series with the hot lead feeding the solenoid.

I did verify via ohm meter the continuity on the pto lever switch (left side of tractor) was good. Easy to access via side plate. I seen BW wires from there go down under the deck and I assume it feeds the HST switch. I need to ohm that out and if it is good I assume the next stop is the ignition switch.

thanks to all we are getting there

 

[Smokeless]

Well, process is slow but moving ahead. I was able to identify the blue with white tracer that (I think) links the two safety switches in series with the hot lead feeding the solenoid.

I did verify via ohm meter the continuity on the pto lever switch (left side of tractor) was good. Easy to access via side plate. I seen BW wires from there go down under the deck and I assume it feeds the HST switch. I need to ohm that out and if it is good I assume the next stop is the ignition switch.

thanks to all we are getting there

Well Eureka!!!! Kinda. I have verified safety switch under HST pedal faulty, or the wiring underneath. Accessed BW wiring from below inst panel and disconnected BW going to HST switch. Connected BW together going to engine, and started, but engine shut off immediately. Done it again, same thing, and again, same thing.

Soooo, I guess I am faced with with either removing allot sheet metal, or finding a work around switches. Sounds like maybe fuel pump hooked into these BW wire, dunno

 

[BruceP]

Would caution against bypassing this safety. I want that PTO to stop dead (engine too) if my butt leaves that seat suddenly.

It is IMPOSSIBLE for any 'safety switches' to kill the engine on G5200. This is because the engine-kill lever is MANUALLY OPERATED and must be pulled and HELD until the engine RPMs have totally gone to zero.

Likewise, the PTO is a manually-opperated lever and CANNOT be disabled with 'safety switches'

The ONLY thing the two 'safety switches' can do is prevent cranking starter. (PTO not engaged -and- HST in neutral) [my seat switch has never even been hooked up]

----------------------------
BTW: The manual for (G4200, G5200, G6200) is available for free online and includes electrical schematic.
It is trivial to troubleshoot, diagnose, and repair any electric issues with a simple voltmeter.

The common issues with 'safety switches' have been discussed time and again. Perhaps the best resolution is to wire in a relay so the 'safety switches' do not directly interact with the starter. (Yes, I have detailed this modification in other discussions)

 

[Smokeless]

It is IMPOSSIBLE for any 'safety switches' to kill the engine on G5200. This is because the engine-kill lever is MANUALLY OPERATED and must be pulled and HELD until the engine RPMs have totally gone to zero.

Likewise, the PTO is a manually-opperated lever and CANNOT be disabled with 'safety switches'

The ONLY thing the two 'safety switches' can do is prevent cranking starter. (PTO not engaged -and- HST in neutral) [my seat switch has never even been hooked up]

----------------------------
BTW: The manual for (G4200, G5200, G6200) is available for free online and includes electrical schematic.
It is trivial to troubleshoot, diagnose, and repair any electric issues with a simple voltmeter.

The common issues with 'safety switches' have been discussed time and again. Perhaps the best resolution is to wire in a relay so the 'safety switches' do not directly interact with the starter. (Yes, I have detailed this modification in other discussions)

Yes Sir, I should have been more clear in my post. I understand the safety switches provide power to the solenoid for starting. And not too long ago we replaced the cable from fuel shut off to seat, all working fine. Well all working except once it starts it shuts down immediately, just like we pulled the fuel shut off lever. It would not even crank until I bypassed the HST safety switch.

That dont make sense to me cause after mowing we turn key off and if you dont pull shut off valve it will keep running. So i am puzzled why it is shutting down, but I have to by pass HST switch or replace it anyway.

So if you or someone has an explanation I am all ears.

thanks for posting

 

[BruceP]

That dont make sense to me cause after mowing we turn key off and if you dont pull shut off valve it will keep running.

Yes, this is totally normal.

So i am puzzled why it is shutting down, but I have to by pass HST switch or replace it anyway.

Makes all kinds of sense..... the HST switch ONLY can disable cranking the starter. It has nothing to do with engine shutting itself down.

The HST-neutral switch is VITALLY IMPORTANT safety feature.... without it, the engine might start in gear and cause injury.

--------------------------------------------
I would suggest bathing the HST switch with WD40 and exercising that switch 30+ times. (Repeat several times!)

In many cases, this will 'revitalize' an electrical switch and it will work for several years longer.

Also make certain that the HST-neutral switch is properly adjusted.

1. With brake set, make sure HST rocker is in the neutral (center) position.
2. Then make sure the switch makes contact ONLY in that position.

 

[Smokeless]

Yes, this is totally normal.


Makes all kinds of sense..... the HST switch ONLY can disable cranking the starter. It has nothing to do with engine shutting itself down.

The HST-neutral switch is VITALLY IMPORTANT safety feature.... without it, the engine might start in gear and cause injury.

--------------------------------------------
I would suggest bathing the HST switch with WD40 and exercising that switch 30+ times. (Repeat several times!)

In many cases, this will 'revitalize' an electrical switch and it will work for several years longer.

Also make certain that the HST-neutral switch is properly adjusted.

1. With brake set, make sure HST rocker is in the neutral (center) position.
2. Then make sure the switch makes contact ONLY in that position.

Appreciate the post, good instructions.

Maybe I need to review what happened.

I took the tractor out and as I approached the grass, it shut flat down, I mean right now.

So, I tried to crank it and no soap, starter not engaging.

Pushed into garage and checked for battery at the starter solenoid. Nothing, commenced tracing BW wire back to the inst panel.

First switch checked was deck engagement lever switch. Checked good.

So moved on to HST switch, bypast it and the engine turned over. Hit glow plugs couple of times, started but when I released ignition switch from start position, tractor shut down, right now. Done that three times.

SO when I am referring to puzzled, I dont understand why it is shutting down and I am not pulling the fuel shut off valve. Maybe I ought to double check things in am and be sure I am not doing something stupid, like having a senior moment

But I appreciate your posts, have had good inputs from many, thanks

 

[BruceP]

Hit glow plugs couple of times, started but when I released ignition switch from start position, tractor shut down, right now. Done that three times.

Sounds like a fuel-delivery issue.

• Is the electric lift-pump running? (anytime the key is ON)
  • They are KNOWN to stop pumping even if they are clicking
  • Engine will tend to quit when fuel-tank is low on fuel
• With key ON, is there fuel flowing from the small filter on the engine?
  • crack loose a fitting
• Have BOTH the fuel-filters been replaced?
  1. Behind right-rear wheel near lift-pump
  2. small one on engine
• Have you tried GENTLY puffing compressed air into the tank from the lift-pump?
  • to clear any blockages at the tank

 

[Smokeless]

Sounds like a fuel-delivery issue.

• Is the electric lift-pump running? (anytime the key is ON)
  • They are KNOWN to stop pumping even if they are clicking
  • Engine will tend to quit when fuel-tank is low on fuel
• With key ON, is there fuel flowing from the small filter on the engine?
  • crack loose a fitting
• Have BOTH the fuel-filters been replaced?
  1. Behind right-rear wheel near lift-pump
  2. small one on engine
• Have you tried GENTLY puffing compressed air into the tank from the lift-pump?
  • to clear any blockages at the tank

Great Posts:

I got it started and it ran for several seconds, then stopped. Not to run again. It does now act like it is starving for fuel.

Fuel is below half, but not out. I will see if it is pumping fuel from the small filter.

I have had the tractor about 18 months, no fuel filters replaced in that time. However, I know my Dad routinely done all his maintenance. 3,600 hrs, but the engine does run strong

Both switches inactivated. Seat cable to shut off valve working as advertised

Thanks for all the posts and advice, will check it out tomorrow and post.

Much obliged

 

[cliffboyer]

Smokeless, good to hear you are it getting sorted out.

Bruce, you are absolutely correct in that none of the electrical switches will kill the engine, and act as you describe. And bypassing would have minimal influence on operational safety, so long as one didn't attempt to start with PTO engaged while someones hand/foot was under the deck.

No, I was referring to the mechanical engine kill/stop cable that is linked to the seat plunger. Bypassing that would be risky in my book.

Cheers!

 

[Torinodan]

If your pickup fuel pump is running you can hear the return fuel with the fuel cap off. Listen carefully for the return gurgling. No gurgling or ticking/clicking from the he fuel pump you need to troubleshoot there as well. It could also be a very clogged filter or a fuel line can be pinched too. Happened to mine