L4701 Dead as a Doornail

Cottonmather0

New member
Aug 26, 2018
16
2
3
Fort Bend County, Texas
I was using my tractor - 2018 L4701 HST - to mow last weekend. I turned it off at lunchtime and when I came back it would not start and is completely unresponsive when the key is turned. No lights, no clicks, no nothing.

I checked the battery and it reads 12.6.

Looked at both fuses and they appear fine.

Discussed the matter with the service manager at the dealership and he concurred that if the battery and fuses are good, then the next step is to suspect the ignition…. But I installed a new key switch and that didn’t fix the problem. Still dead and unresponsive.

Does anyone have any other ideas on what to try before I call to have it towed off to the shop?

This is not the first time this has happened, but every other time It has started right back up a few minutes later.
 
Last edited:

jyoutz

Well-known member

Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
2,993
2,035
113
Edgewood, New Mexico
Most tractors won’t start with the pto engaged. I would check the pto switch. Did you disengage it before shutting down?
 

Cottonmather0

New member
Aug 26, 2018
16
2
3
Fort Bend County, Texas
Most tractors won’t start with the pto engaged. I would check the pto switch. Did you disengage it before shutting down?
Sorry, forgot to mention that. Yes, PTO is off. One of the first things I checked.

But even then, it will normally click and light up if you try to start it with the PTO, which isn’t what is happening here.
 

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,843
5,066
113
Eastham, Ma
I was using my tractor - 2018 L4701 HST - to mow last weekend. I turned it off at lunchtime and when I came back it would not start and is completely unresponsive when the key is turned. No lights, no clicks, no nothing.

I checked the battery and it reads 12.6.

Looked at both fuses and they appear fine.

Discussed the matter with the service manager at the dealership and he concurred that if the battery and fuses are good, then the next step is to suspect the ignition…. But I installed a new key switch and that didn’t fix the problem. Still dead and unresponsive.

Does anyone have any other ideas on what to try before I call to have it towed off to the shop?

This is not the first time this has happened, but every other time It has started right back up a few minutes later.
Neutral position of rocker pedal?
 
Last edited:

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,207
1,893
113
Mid, South, USA
put your dvom on the battery.

now go turn the key on and watch the voltage. What's it do? If it doesn't change at the battery posts, put your dvom probes on the battery CABLES (not the post) and read it. If it's lower, you have a connection issue. If it's ok, possibly a wiring problem somewhere. Or a big fuse (slow-blow). You can't really see a blown slow-blow, I usually have to probe or ohm them to verify.
 
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Mark_BX25D

Well-known member

Equipment
Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
1,754
1,277
113
Virginia
put your dvom on the battery.

now go turn the key on and watch the voltage. What's it do? If it doesn't change at the battery posts, put your dvom probes on the battery CABLES (not the post) and read it. If it's lower, you have a connection issue. If it's ok, possibly a wiring problem somewhere. Or a big fuse (slow-blow). You can't really see a blown slow-blow, I usually have to probe or ohm them to verify.

What he said. All of it.

You have classic bad connection symptoms. Could be something else, but this is the place to start. Check all cables, all connections.

Don't just look at the connections - you can't tell anything that way. Take them apart, and since you have them apart, clean them thoroughly. Check the cables. They can get corrosion inside the jacket and carry just enough juice to fool a meter, but won't carry enough to actually do any work. Test lights are good. Don't ONLY rely on a meter. Yes, those are good too. Both belong on your tool belt.

On the cables, push them, shove them, twist them. Get rough with them. If it's nearly broken, you want to break it, so you know where your problem is. If you feel a crunchy feeling, that's probably corrosion inside.

Bypass them with a jumper of some kind to see if that's your problem. You can even use your regular jumper cables - this is temporary to identify the problem. It doesn't matter if it's sloppy looking.

Try that and see where you stand.
 
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Roadworthy

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L2501 HST
Aug 17, 2019
1,649
526
113
Benton City, WA
It does sound like a defective connection somewhere. That could be it or your computer could have died or need reset - if there's a reset button somewhere.