I am looking for a source for a double inline check valve for my 2x8 tilt cylinder with #6 sae ports, 6" center. My google fu is not good on this one.
Check Valve for Tilt Cylinder
- Thread starter jbolt001
- Start date
Are you looking for something (1) to insert in the hydraulic lines somewhere, or (2) something that mounts neatly to the cylinder itself?
I think the answer will depend on what you want to do. The first is easier to accomplish than the second I expect.
How about this
Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM
Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM Free Shipping
summit-hydraulics.com
Number 2 would be my preferred method. So far I have not found anything sold in the northern hemisphere that is small enough to fit in-between the ports.
Almost all the ones that are built onto the cylinder have custom hardlines fitted to them when they are built. I have seen some fitted between sections of straight tube with banjo fittings on the cylinder ports, but it looks highly tedious to piece together and replicate. I would buy a cylinder that already has it and find a new use for this one!
Your biggest issue is going to be the #6 ports. The banjo bolts for this application are not mass produced.
If you are a machinist, not a problem.
The picture with the u bends is on a 3" stroke cylinder, so it can be done.
The picture of the side link with the DPOCV is a 4" stroke unit on a B series Kubota.
The least costly way is probably just put a small on-off hydraulic rated ball valve on the cylinder.
Good luck
If you are a machinist, not a problem.
The picture with the u bends is on a 3" stroke cylinder, so it can be done.
The picture of the side link with the DPOCV is a 4" stroke unit on a B series Kubota.
The least costly way is probably just put a small on-off hydraulic rated ball valve on the cylinder.
Good luck
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TheOldHokie
Well-known member
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
FRAGOLA 650160 FRAGOLA 9/16-18 Banjo Bolt - Steel | eBay
Banjo Bolt - Single Banjo - 9/16-18 in Thread - Steel - Zinc Oxide - Each.
www.ebay.com
I would just put the valve in the hoses.
Dan
I stand corrected.FRAGOLA 650160 FRAGOLA 9/16-18 Banjo Bolt - Steel | eBay
Banjo Bolt - Single Banjo - 9/16-18 in Thread - Steel - Zinc Oxide - Each.www.ebay.com
I would just put the valve in the hoses.
Dan
The last I checked a few years ago, a person needed to be willing to get 1000 pcs made. I guess someone was finally willing to do that. I can understand why they want $10 ea plus shipping, not the usual $2 for a British thread banjo bolt.
They simply are not a popular size for these applications.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Seems like banjo fittings are most common in the BSPP and metric world. These inch fittings are most commonly aluminum and made for the Roger Roadracer types that are using AN fittings on their oil, gas, and brake systems. The 9/16 is pretty common and probably fits some US carburetor fuel bowl. The one that is harder to get at a decent price is 1/2-20 (-5).
Dan
Maybe you could put it on the other end of the hoses. I don't know what your remote setup looks like. I've seen port multipliers that plug directly into the remotes. They use offset nipples that allow the connectors to be adjusted to the remotes. IF you could buy the nipples separately, and IF you could find a check valve with port spacing close to your remotes, and IF there's enough room, it could work. Maybe.
Edit, like this:
Edit, like this:
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I believe two valves would be needed to mimic what a double pilot-operated check valve block would do.
With only one manual valve as shown in picture #2, the cylinder would be locked from extending, but could still retract, if leakage through the control valve were an issue, which it always seems to be to some extent.
Without stopping leakage from the cylinder end (vs the rod end) the only real force holding the piston in place is whatever results from a vacuum being pulled on the rod end of the piston, caused by a force pushing on the cylinder rod.
Just something I came to realize after reading threads here at OTT.
Unless someone has figured out how to overcome gravity, with the rod end blocked, the rod WILL NOT extend.
Yes if there were a constant up pressure the rod could retract. 99.9% of the time that simply is not the case.
Point being, in real world use, this works to prevent adjustment from control valve leakage on a side link.
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Granted the rod end will not extend, as I stated also.
With a tilt cylinder you are certainly correct there is likely no significant upward force to be an issue.
I guess I tend to think beyond a given application. Someone could view this thread and think one manual valve would work in every case, which is unlikely at best.
Point was that a single manual valve does not duplicate a pilot operated check valve set up that uses two check valves. Nothing more than that.
So I am curious, do you think that I simply should not have brought up the on-off valve which is less money than the DPOCV and an easier installation as well as allowing for use of the float feature in the valve if he or anyone else has that feature? Not only is this thread about a side link issue, but I also showed a DPOCV as an alternative.
If every thing ever mentioned on these forums took into account every possibility that might come up, we would have either very very long threads or a question only with no reply's. I'm leaning towards the Zero reply senario.
But all is good, the op should have information now to deal with his side link issue.
Actually I think it is a great idea.So I am curious, do you think that I simply should not have brought up the on-off valve which is less money than the DPOCV and an easier installation as well as allowing for use of the float feature in the valve if he or anyone else has that feature? Not only is this thread about a side link issue, but I also showed a DPOCV as an alternative.
If every thing ever mentioned on these forums took into account every possibility that might come up, we would have either very very long threads or a question only with no reply's. I'm leaning towards the Zero reply senario.
But all is good, the op should have information now to deal with his side link issue.
Speaking of float, I do have a float section in my block of four remotes. Since pilot operated check valves and float are mutually exclusive, you can only have one or the other.
I can see the advantage of adding a manual valve like you suggested to a cylinder controlled by a valve that has the float function built in, in order to lock the tilt cylinder in position. Desirable, for example, if brush hogging for an extended period.
The picture on the right is what I am interested in. I think I can overcome the #6 port if I can find a DPOCV that is small enough.
I wanted to do the same thing. But then I priced it all out and found I was better off putting 2 valves in line that I can reach from the seat. It actually works well. Mainly because I do not move the tilt link much once set.
This is what I found "Apollo 3/8" ball valve 2000 WOG manual valve threaded" and I found them here https://www.ebay.com/itm/283520713883.
I will post pictures if anybody is interested.
This is what I found "Apollo 3/8" ball valve 2000 WOG manual valve threaded" and I found them here https://www.ebay.com/itm/283520713883.
I will post pictures if anybody is interested.