Seized Implement Help

Shell Shocked

New member

Equipment
L4701 - L2501 - L2000
May 18, 2015
15
1
3
West TN, U S A
Hey there all. I just recently picked up an older Bush Hog rear blade. Model 1113. It has the usual left right angle as well as tilt. The pivot joints look like gear teeth. The left right joint works fine. The tilt seems to be frozen. the attached pic is of a similar model not mine. Mine has both levers where the lower one is missing in the pic.

The unit uses levers to bind or loosen the joints to allow for pivot. I have used a good bit of leverage on the one sticking out of the 3 pt hitch area. I believe there is a threaded portion back at the joint that is seized. I know it is not seized at the forward position (3 pt hitch area) and does not allow much room for penetrating oil to seep in and run down to the back threaded portion. It would be great if anyone had any tips to help free this up.

I hope the above explanation makes sense.
 

Attachments

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,843
5,066
113
Eastham, Ma
Hey there all. I just recently picked up an older Bush Hog rear blade. Model 1113. It has the usual left right angle as well as tilt. The pivot joints look like gear teeth. The left right joint works fine. The tilt seems to be frozen. the attached pic is of a similar model not mine. Mine has both levers where the lower one is missing in the pic.

The unit uses levers to bind or loosen the joints to allow for pivot. I have used a good bit of leverage on the one sticking out of the 3 pt hitch area. I believe there is a threaded portion back at the joint that is seized. I know it is not seized at the forward position (3 pt hitch area) and does not allow much room for penetrating oil to seep in and run down to the back threaded portion. It would be great if anyone had any tips to help free this up.

I hope the above explanation makes sense.
Kroil is the very best product on the market to free rusted components.
Be patient, and apply Kroil repeatedly over several days.
 
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GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,414
4,908
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works very,very well.
someone actually did a controlled test of several 'lubes' and it was the best and cheapest.
oil,heat,patience.....repeat as needed.
 
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OrangeKrush

Well-known member

Equipment
BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
Nov 15, 2020
1,047
515
113
Indy
I heard the Kroil on another website worked the best for Rusted Stuck items. Seems even the ATF would work if it's able to penetrate. If you happen to have an air chisel with some type of blunt edge you could maybe vibrate some rust loose. Just a thought!
 

BruceP

Well-known member

Equipment
G5200H
Aug 7, 2016
851
368
63
Richmond, Vermont, USA
The standard order-of-operation for stuck things:
  1. Soaking with your favorite liquid
    • liquid wrench, kroil, ATF...etc
  2. Shock
    • Even light tapping with hammer helps the liquid work its way into the joint
  3. Heat/Cold (Thermal shock)
    • Propane torch followed by water to cause sudden expansion/contraction in the stuck joints
    • Often you can heat the 'outside' part and chill the 'inside' part to encourage them to pull apart from each other.
    • The goal here is to break the rust-bond between the two components.

Personally, I would try the wrench in a can and hammer for several days.... then move on to using heat/cold as necessary.
 
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fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,843
5,066
113
Eastham, Ma
50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works very,very well.
someone actually did a controlled test of several 'lubes' and it was the best and cheapest.
oil,heat,patience.....repeat as needed.
The problem with ATF and Acetone is that they do not combine in mixture very well.
Kroil does not separate.