Hydraulic top link question

[BruceMyers48]

I already have a third function valve for my grapple, I want to add a hydraulic top link, can I come off my third function valve for a remote in the rear for the HYD top link ? if someone could help me figure out the best route I would appreciate it. I own a L3901 that is around 8 years old

 

[TheOldHokie]

I already have a third function valve for my grapple, I want to add a hydraulic top link, can I come off my third function valve for a remote in the rear for the HYD top link ? if someone could help me figure out the best route I would appreciate it. I own a L3901 that is around 8 years old

Yes. Thats exactly how the factory remotes are plumbed. Just pick a place to mount the new valve and plumb it in.

1) Remove the hose going from the T port on the third function valve to the hydraulic outlet block on the tractor. Run a new hose from the T port on the third function valve to the pressure in port on your new valve.

2) Connect a hose between thecpower beyond on new valve to the open port on the hydraulic block.

3)Add a tee to the hose connecting the T port on the loader valve to the hydraulic outlet block. Run a hose from the T port on the remote valve to that new tee.

Your valve is now connected and ready for use. Run two hoses from the work ports on the new valve to the rear for the top link.

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

Yes. Thats exactly how the factory remotes are plumbed. Just pick a place to mount the new valve and plumb it in.

1) Remove the hose going from the T port on the third function valve to the hydraulic outlet block on the tractor. Run a new hose from the T port on the third function valve to the pressure in port on your new valve.

2) Connect a hose between thecpower beyond on new valve to the open port on the hydraulic block.

3)Add a tee to the hose connecting the T port on the loader valve to the hydraulic outlet block. Run a hose from the T port on the remote valve to that new tee.

Your valve is now connected and ready for use. Run two hoses from the work ports on the new valve to the rear for the top link.

Dan

Dan,

Is there a particular valve you are suggesting to use for this? I have been thinking about adding something to mine.

I have already teed the outputs of my 3rd function lines to the back to angle a back blade but wanting to do top and tilt too.

Thanks, Bill

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan,

Is there a particular valve you are suggesting to use for this? I have been thinking about adding something to mine.

I have already teed the outputs of my 3rd function lines to the back to angle a back blade but wanting to do top and tilt too.

Thanks, Bill

PM me Bill - lots of possibilities. Or call me if you would like to chat. The number is on my website.

Windy Ridge Farm

Dan

 

[BruceMyers48]

Yes. Thats exactly how the factory remotes are plumbed. Just pick a place to mount the new valve and plumb it in.

1) Remove the hose going from the T port on the third function valve to the hydraulic outlet block on the tractor. Run a new hose from the T port on the third function valve to the pressure in port on your new valve.

2) Connect a hose between thecpower beyond on new valve to the open port on the hydraulic block.

3)Add a tee to the hose connecting the T port on the loader valve to the hydraulic outlet block. Run a hose from the T port on the remote valve to that new tee.

Your valve is now connected and ready for use. Run two hoses from the work ports on the new valve to the rear for the top link.

Dan

Thanks, I will study my third valve to see if I understand your instructions.

 

[BruceMyers48]

Yes. Thats exactly how the factory remotes are plumbed. Just pick a place to mount the new valve and plumb it in.

1) Remove the hose going from the T port on the third function valve to the hydraulic outlet block on the tractor. Run a new hose from the T port on the third function valve to the pressure in port on your new valve.

2) Connect a hose between thecpower beyond on new valve to the open port on the hydraulic block.

3)Add a tee to the hose connecting the T port on the loader valve to the hydraulic outlet block. Run a hose from the T port on the remote valve to that new tee.

Your valve is now connected and ready for use. Run two hoses from the work ports on the new valve to the rear for the top link.

Dan

Thanks so much, do you have an idea of how much extra hyd fluid I will have to add? thanks

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks so much, do you have an idea of how much extra hyd fluid I will have to add? thanks

Very little. Assuming we are talking US measures the capacity of a 2 x 10 hydraulic top link is 31.4 cubic inches = 17..4 liquid ounces = ~1 cup liquid. Add another cup or so for the hoses so maybe a pint total. You will barely see that on the dipstick.

Dan

 

[D2Cat]

Dan, went to your link. Very interesting, enjoyed the pictures, the story, the machine shop, the detailed oil analysis chart. Those tools you sell reminded me of the TR3, Jag XKE and a couple of other cars I had. I still have a gauge to adjust the 3 carbs on the XKE, timing lights and a few other antique tools. Thanks, it was enjoyable.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan, went to your link. Very interesting, enjoyed the pictures, the story, the machine shop, the detailed oil analysis chart. Those tools you sell reminded me of the TR3, Jag XKE and a couple of other cars I had. I still have a gauge to adjust the 3 carbs on the XKE, timing lights and a few other antique tools. Thanks, it was enjoyable.

Thanks for stopping in. A D2 and multiple little British cars including a triple SU XKE?. I hope you still have the XKE to go with the tools. You have really paid your dues!!!

Dan