It looks like there's a difference between 4 ply and 6 ply tires in the manual. (4PR vs 6PR).Front: 27x8.50-15 --- Recommended 30 PSI in manual --- 45 PSI Max
Rear: 15x19.5 --- Recommended 30 PSI in manual ---- 30 PSI Max
Seems weird that the manual says 30 PSI for the rear with that being the Max.
And then the manual also states to run the max PSI in the front if an FEL is attached, that is 45 PSI.
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Doubt it. Farm equipment usually has bias ply tires. Steel belts are usually noted. Euro tractors spend much more time on the road. In the states they're often premium tires. As for PSI he's right. Traction is the factor, I too run higher in fronts due to a FEL. If you drive around with the bucket, bale spear, etc., by all means drop it. I have R1 rears and R4 fronts.. R1s typically don't flex as much either.My L is the first tractor I’ve had with R4’s. Came from the dealer with 35psi in the loaded rears. Rode about like a Farmall F-20 on steel wheels and traction was disappointing. Looking at it on the concrete shop floor it looked like there was no noticeable sidewall flex so it had one tread bar pair contacting the ground. By contrast a quality radial R1 on an ag tractor designed for heavy draft work will have 3 to 4 bar pairs on flat ground. I didn’t expect 3 bars, but 1??? No wonder the traction was disappointing.
Reduced tire pressure in rears to 15 which helped, then reduced to 12. Traction and ride both substantially improved. Stopped at 12 psi because I’m 2psi short of being as brave as @mcfarmall. Didn’t change the psi on the front and won’t so long as there’s a loader on it.
Question is am I damaging the sidewalls on the R4’s by allowing them to flex? Ask me in 5 years if we’re both still around. That’s the one and only place I deviate from the OM. If you want the “correct” answer follow the OM.
Ummmm... a lot of farm equipment are equipped with radials.Doubt it. Farm equipment usually has bias ply tires. Steel belts are usually noted. Euro tractors spend much more time on the road. In the states they're often premium tires. As for PSI he's right. Traction is the factor, I too run higher in fronts due to a FEL. If you drive around with the bucket, bale spear, etc., by all means drop it. I have R1 rears and R4 fronts.. R1s typically don't flex as much either.
Doubt it all you want. Most heavy draft tractors in the US are running radials due to increased ground engagement allowed by the increased flexibility compared to bias ply. As an example the link is a comparison of 23 degree v 45 degree bar pattern.Doubt it. Farm equipment usually has bias ply tires. Steel belts are usually noted. Euro tractors spend much more time on the road. In the states they're often premium tires. As for PSI he's right. Traction is the factor, I too run higher in fronts due to a FEL. If you drive around with the bucket, bale spear, etc., by all means drop it. I have R1 rears and R4 fronts.. R1s typically don't flex as much either.
Wrote flex backwards to what i meant. Sorry. Tons of R4s here arent. More R1s are.Ummmm... a lot of farm equipment are equipped with radials.
And R1's flex a ton, R4's don't flex, not even when they are flat.
All or almost all R4's are Radial tires.
I've never seen an R4 that wasn't a radial.
this makes me want to try 15 psiReduced tire pressure in rears to 15 which helped, then reduced to 12. Traction and ride both substantially improved. Stopped at 12 psi because I’m 2psi short of being as brave as @mcfarmall. Didn’t change the psi on the front and won’t so long as there’s a loader on it.
That's where I run in rears....12-15 psi. Much better on my back as well.this makes me want to try 15 psi![]()
My rears are at 12 right now from the dealer.I just spoke to a dealer about those dayum R4s, the book calls for 40 psi and traction sucks to say the least. His suggestion was to drop to 20 to 25 psi. That the sidewalls are so stiff you wont run them off the rim, my big concern. So I will try that and see what shakes maybe thats all thats needed