SSQA snow plows

[TheOldHokie]

I am in the process of converting an old Meyers ST78 truck plow to SSQA hitch for use on my L3901 and LA525 loader. I am trying to decide on exactly what type of A frame attachment to use. I have researched plows from a number of leading suppliers including Buyers, Boss, Western, Meyers, Land Pride, and Virnig. They all have different setups but they all fall into three basic designs:

1. Meyers went the easy route and they simply pin their Classic mount to an SSQA adapter plate (see picture below). My main objection to that design is it puts the plow way out in front of the tractor. It does however let the plow float just like a frame mounted truck plow.
2. Land Pride uses a rigid A frame weldment that brings the plow in tighter to the adapter plate. Now the plow acts more like a bucket and you have to let the loader float the blade. Not sure how well that works in practice.
3. Most of the others go high tech using a rigid A frame like #2 but with an oscillating king pin attachment to the adapter plate. This lets the plow rotate along the vertical plane of the SSQA plate to follow any camber on the road surface and it also brings the plow in tighter to the tractor. But it also requires the use of loader to float the blade. I am also concerned about wear on that king pin becoming a maintenance issue.

I would like to hear pros/cons and actual user experience from people that own and/or use plows with any of these designs. I am leaning towards the oscillating design primarily because I can get the plow in tighter to the adapter plate. If the king pin fails to hold up in service I can simply revert to version #2 by welding the A frame push plate to the SSQA adapter plate


Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

from your picture...
modified version #1..

I'd rotate the plow full right(or left) then measure how much of the A-frame you can cut off.
This puts the snowplow as close as possible to the SSQA plate.

 

[TheOldHokie]

from your picture...
modified version #1..

I'd rotate the plow full right(or left) then measure how much of the A-frame you can cut off.
This puts the snowplow as close as possible to the SSQA plate.

I have already done that. The angling cylinders that are on order will actually be the limiting factor. Number 1 did not involve shoteneing the A frame - I think you are proposing a fourth alternative. Which of these have you actually used?

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

I don't know how helpful this will be but I've used the Land Pride STB1596 for the last two winters and have no complaints. First winter was on the MX6000 open station, and this past winter was on the cab version.

The 1596 has a trip function, the blade can rotate +/- 5 degrees in the vertical plane to better follow the terrain, and it does a great job of moving snow. I use the 3rd function buttons to angle the blade left to right and the loader tilt function to change the angle of attack, both of which work well. I generally float the blade but don't have to. I also run a snow blower on the back but if I could only keep one of the implements it'd be the snow blade given that it's more versatile. The blade does feel like it's way out there but it hasn't been a problem for the MX.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I don't know how helpful this will be but I've used the Land Pride STB1596 for the last two winters and have no complaints. First winter was on the MX6000 open station, and this past winter was on the cab version.

The 1596 has a trip function, the blade can rotate +/- 5 degrees in the vertical plane to better follow the terrain, and it does a great job of moving snow. I use the 3rd function buttons to angle the blade left to right and the loader tilt function to change the angle of attack, both of which work well. I generally float the blade but don't have to. I also run a snow blower on the back but if I could only keep one of the implements it'd be the snow blade given that it's more versatile. The blade does feel like it's way out there but it hasn't been a problem for the MX.

View attachment 77280

View attachment 77281

View attachment 77282

Thats exactly what I wanted to know and very helpful. If you dont float the blade how do you control height? Just set it on the shoes and go?

I must have missed that model in my research - the Land pride models I looked at were rigid mounts. I am really leaning towards this design. Any chance you could post a couple good pics of the king pin details?

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

Thats exactly what I wanted to know and very helpful. If you dont float the blade how do you control height? Just set it on the shoes and go?

I must have missed that model in my research - the Land pride models I looked at were rigid mounts. I am really leaning towards this design. Any chance you could post a couple good pics of the king pin details?

Dan

I do typically float the blade with the shoes adjusted such that I don't push gravel.

I'm outside getting the 16ft dump trailer ready for a friend to use so it's no problem to take some photos of the snow blade. Give me 30 minutes or so and I'll report back.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I do typically float the blade with the shoes adjusted such that I don't push gravel.

I'm outside getting the 16ft dump trailer ready for a friend to use so it's no problem to take some photos of the snow blade. Give me 30 minutes or so and I'll report back.

Much appreciated. I am not going to do anything real soon so take your time. I need to have the angling cylinders and OEM clevises I ordered to figure out exactly where they get welded on before I can cut the A frame back.

I downloaded the parts manual for your plow and its much better than most. It looks like the kingpin is just a 3/4" HHCS and they have three others on the periphery of the swivel plate. I like it - should be real easy to make.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

aw, you don't have cylinders in the picture so I 'assumed' a manual turn and lock setup.
I've done the cut and rejig on a Meyers onto CJ-5 back in '76.angled blade just cleared tires by 2". It was manual angle.Got real good at planning out the 'event' so I didn't have to change often ! JEEPS ain't exactly warm !!

 

[TheOldHokie]

aw, you don't have cylinders in the picture so I 'assumed' a manual turn and lock setup.
I've done the cut and rejig on a Meyers onto CJ-5 back in '76.angled blade just cleared tires by 2". It was manual angle.Got real good at planning out the 'event' so I didn't have to change often ! JEEPS ain't exactly warm !!

The plow is manual angle - I am adding the OEM cylinders which are on order. I suspect this 6-1/2' plow was originally part of a Jeep package. They were very popular.

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

Much appreciated. I am not going to do anything real soon so take your time. I need to have the angling cylinders and OEM clevises I ordered to figure out exactly where they get welded on before I can cut the A frame back.

I downloaded the parts manual for your plow and its much better than most. It looks like the kingpin is just a 3/4" HHCS and they have three others on the periphery of the swivel plate. I like it - should be real easy to make.

Dan

View attachment 77288

Great. Here are some photos and let me know if you need more or if you need measurements. I'm not sure if you know this, but bolt #4 is the locking bolt that prevents the blade from rotating +/- 5 degrees. Land Pride states that the bolt should be installed for shipping. With the bolt removed, bolt #5 and it's mirrored twin ride in a slot and the blade pivots around another #5 bolt at the 6 o'clock position.

 

[mcmxi]

One more.

 

[baronetm]

The Old Hokie:

Attached is a plow build I made and use. I used a Fisher Plow and attached its vehicle cross member to my QA plate. I have the plow set up with a stiff hitch for the purpose of back dragging snow but also still have the original chain attached that will wrap around the QA stiff hitch center pin for a full float snowplow as the original manufacturer designed. The stiff hitch will to some degree slide for a float function if I pull the pins.

I have never used the chain attached; I find that plowing with the blade in Hyd Float or in a fixed position is sufficient. The one issue I do have is this is a 7-1/2’ blade and if the snow is heavy enough with the blade angled it will skate the tractor sideways. If I make my first pass/s with a straight blade and then angle to clean up this issue mostly eliminated. I do not use front mounted chains which may elevate that issue.

I intentionally wanted the blade further from the QA plate for the sole purpose of pushing snow over a steep bank keeping the tractor further from the edge and piling snow.

I also use this QA plate with a straight 10’-2” Schd. 80 BI pipe Jib boom, the pole attaches to the top pin with two out rigger supports attached to the bottom outside pins.

As a side note, I also had a Meyers plow I thought of using at 7' and a lot lighter but decided against do to the trip function of the blade folding under heavy load. An issue I hatted when it was mounted on a previously owned truck. I prefer the Fisher with a trip blade.

 

[mcmxi]

I downloaded the parts manual for your plow and its much better than most.

Full disclosure, the STB1596 was $3,350 from the local dealer. Kind of expensive for what it is, but it works well and should last a lifetime with minimal attention. When I bought the MX6000 HST I added the snow blade and an RB3796 rear blade. There was a $500 rebate on one implement, and I recently sold the rear blade to the firefighter who bought the MX for what I paid for it, so I think of the snow blade as costing $2,850. I can live with that.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Great. Here are some photos and let me know if you need more or if you need measurements. I'm not sure if you know this, but bolt #4 is the locking bolt that prevents the blade from rotating +/- 5 degrees. Land Pride states that the bolt should be installed for shipping. With the bolt removed, bolt #5 and it's mirrored twin ride in a slot and the blade pivots around another #5 bolt at the 6 o'clock position.

This is very helpful. Looking at the parts diagram I thought the pivot point was at the top of the plate which is bass-ackwards. The two pinch bolts in the picture below are kept just snug and used to stabilize the top of the push plate which pivots on a similar bolt directly below and in between them. Three bolts not four as I initially thought?

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

Full disclosure, the STB1596 was $3,350 from the local dealer. Kind of expensive for what it is, but it works well and should last a lifetime with minimal attention. When I bought the MX6000 HST I added the snow blade and an RB3796 rear blade. There was a $500 rebate on one implement, and I recently sold the rear blade to the firefighter who bought the MX for what I paid for it, so I think of the snow blade as costing $2,850. I can live with that.

Right now its looking like this blade is going to cost me a bit more than I originally planned:

SSQA adapter: $150
Anglng cylinders : 2 @ $110
OEM cylinder clevises: 4 @ 19
Cushion valve: $100
New springs: 2 @ $25

Hose, fittings, and steel are all shop stock so I consider it "free". I am debating whether I want to take the plow apart and haul it to the local heavy truck repair in town to have it sand blasted before I modify and paint it. They do excellent work but they do not work cheap. What the hell - its just the kids inheritance....

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

This is very helpful. Looking at the parts diagram I thought the pivot point was at the top of the plate which is bass-ackwards. The two pinch bolts in the picture below are kept just snug and used to stabilize the top of the push plate which pivots on a similar bolt directly below and in between them. Three bolts not four as I initially thought?

Dan


View attachment 77303

Exactly right. Those pinch bolts ride in slots, and this is the lower bolt that the blade pivots about.

 

[mcmxi]

Right now its looking like this blade is going to cost me a bit more than I originally planned:

SSQA adapter: $150
Anglng cylinders : 2 @ $110
OEM cylinder clevises: 4 @ 19
Cushion valve: $100
New springs: 2 @ $25

Hose, fittings, and steel are all shop stock so I consider it "free". I am debating whether I want to take the plow apart and haul it to the local heavy truck repair in town to have it sand blasted before I modify and paint it. They do excellent work but they do not work cheap. What the hell - its just the kids inheritance....

Dan

Even if you pay to have the plow sand blasted you'll still be way ahead of me. Doing it right once is always better. I look forward to seeing your finished project, and don't hesitate to ask if need any more information.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

interesting that the mcmxi unit has dbl acting 'angle' cylinders. seems overly complicated and expensive . All plows I've had were single acting.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Even if you pay to have the plow sand blasted you'll still be way ahead of me. Doing it right once is always better. I look forward to seeing your finished project, and don't hesitate to ask if need any more information.

Thanks - could not figure out what that picture was the first time around. This is very straight forward. I could blast the thing myself but running my little pot blaster is not a fun job. I will certainly pay to get the blade blasted if nothing else. I may also pop to have that pivot plate laser cut rather than spend a lot of time trying to mill the slots on a rotary table. Quick online estimate from a local shop was only $40 and they are not far from the truck repair facility so I can pick everything up in one trip into town . The plate on yours looks pretty thick - 1/2" or 3/8"?

Dan

 

[mcmxi]

Thanks - could not figure out what that picture was the first time around. This is very straight forward. I could blast the thing myself but running my little pot blaster is not a fun job. I will certainly pay to get the blade blasted if nothing else. I may also pop to have that pivot plate laser cut rather than spend a lot of time trying to mill the slots on a rotary table. Quick online estimate from a local shop was only $40 and they are not far from the truck repair facility so I can pick everything up in one trip into town . The plate on yours looks pretty thick - 1/2" or 3/8"?

Dan

Yes, both plates are 1/2" thick.