I plan to flush the radiator and put in new fluid as part of the process. I saw one post from someone that finally took their machine to a shop and they used a 6' cheater to remove the plug. I put some penetrating spray on yesterday. I will give that a try over a few days and see what happens. I've heard diesel and ATF at a 50/50 mix works well too.
I like the idea of using a torch but it is a bit tight where the plug is located but not terrible. I would need to remove the oil fill cap and cover that. I could use some type of light shielding as well. If penetrating spray doesn't work as suggested, I will give it a try. Is there anything else I need to be concerned about while using a torch beside draining the block? I have a pretty small torch tip that should be able to keep the heat down to something less than making straight cuts in 3/8 steel plate.
Do Not use an impact!!! Brass/brass alloy is pretty soft, and an impact will destroy the head. You are not working with a very big plug so I would do it in two steps. First, I would apply heat to the plug to melt any lock-tite that may have been applied. Then I would let it cool, assuming it is brass to harden. Then I would try to heat the block around the threads to near red, then try to turn the plug while the block is hot. Being a brass plug and dissimilar metals, it can be tricky. Do Not reuse the plug if the head is damaged at all. If you have two people and do not mind blemishing the 6-point socket, have someone applying torque while you heat the block. A healthy snatch can work but it is usually a one or two time try. Steady pressure while things expand has worked best for me. Use the largest socket set you have and all the cheater pipe you can fit.
Are you sure it is a freeze plug. You mention in the subject line 17mm threaded. This is normally the block drain size on diesel engines (has been on every diesel I've ever owned. A freeze plug normally is a blank, circular thing put into about a 1 1/2 inch hole in the block. Had one on the old Benz 240D that I had the dealer put a block heater into.
Yes, it is probably the block drain plug. The Kubota part I got for the block heater was threaded the same size as the block plug. BTW, the part number was 70000-73274, here is the same part on EBay for $60. I paid $100 at the dealer but couldn't figure out the correct part number to look for.
I just went through the same thing putting in my block heater. I just happened to have an impact grade 17mm hex 1/2" drive socket... have no idea where or when or why I picked it up, That and a good air impact gun did the trick. And yes ... there was some sort of sealant on the threads
Just to understand completely, so all you did was use the long cheater bar and apply some penetrating fluid a couple days earlier? No heat, etc?
Hi Henro, that is correct. I really don't think the penetrating fluid did very much either. Applying heat would have been tough right in that area so I am glad it broke free. I did use an impact hex socket bit though.
