Preventing hydraulic rust

fried1765

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I don't use nor have I bought WD-40 in the last 50 years. Fluid film or as you say LPS.

I knew someone who would use WD-40 on his firearms and wouldn't listen.
Long ago, I used WD-40 on a S&W 9mm.
I now have a 9mm S&W with a rusty spot in the bluing!
 
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Chanceywd

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Was it Gunnery Sergeant Hartman, Sr. Drill Instructor, USMC?
While it is sold to displace moisture I always would see rust a few days after using around machinery in my teens. I belonged to a hunting club in my 40's and there was a can by the gun rack there one guy using it on his every time he went out deer hunting. I told him about my experience saying there was better things for guns but he swore by it. I've never seen it help to loosen a rusted fastener either. I tend to use PB blaster for that but still wish for something better. ( pb blaster not used on guns, for fastener lubing)

Bill
 

fried1765

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While it is sold to displace moisture I always would see rust a few days after using around machinery in my teens. I belonged to a hunting club in my 40's and there was a can by the gun rack there one guy using it on his every time he went out deer hunting. I told him about my experience saying there was better things for guns but he swore by it. I've never seen it help to loosen a rusted fastener either. I tend to use PB blaster for that but still wish for something better. ( pb blaster not used on guns, for fastener lubing)

Bill
Best commercially sold product for loosening rusty bolts/fasteners is..... "Kroil"
 
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fried1765

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Never tried that, I will have to get some. Thanks for the tip!
Bill
Can be a bit difficult to find.
Amazon sells it, but it is crazy expensive.
I would recommend buying their 8oz can ($22.64), and putting it in your own spray bottle (used Windex etc.)
The stuff eventually creeps through the threads.
Trust me.....it is worth the money!

I had an old rusted top link that was given to me.
Nothing worked to free it up.
Even tried applying Kroil to the threads several times in a week....still nothing.
Stood it up on end, and applied Kroil once every few days, then let it stand there for two months.
Came apart easily with a pipe wrench!
 

Chanceywd

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Can be a bit difficult to find.
Amazon sells it, but it is crazy expensive.
I would recommend buying their 8oz can ($22.64), and putting it in your own spray bottle (used Windex etc.)
The stuff eventually creeps through the threads.
Trust me.....it is worth the money!

I had an old rusted top link that was given to me.
Nothing worked to free it up.
Even tried applying Kroil to the threads several times in a week....still nothing.
Stood it up on end, and applied Kroil once every few days, then let it stand there for two months.
Came apart easily with a pipe wrench!
Well at 68 an 8 oz can should last me a few years. Not doing nearly all the mechanical stuff I used to as the vehicles only get a fraction of the miles since retirement. I see amazon and mcmaster have it and a lot of ebay places but my wife loves amazon so i will have her get some! thanks again, bill
 

Mark_BX25D

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WD-40 is consumer junk that evaporates while you look at it!

It's good for one thing - displacing water. Got water inside a cable (like a hood release cable)? It's good for that. Inside a lock? It's good for that. Getting the water out.

But follow up with a decent lube.
 
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As a professional user, LPS hands down over wd40, I wouldn't use wd40 on a car I was sending to the junkyard.
+1 on kroil for loosening rusty bolts etc
 
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fried1765

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Well at 68 an 8 oz can should last me a few years. Not doing nearly all the mechanical stuff I used to as the vehicles only get a fraction of the miles since retirement. I see amazon and mcmaster have it and a lot of ebay places but my wife loves amazon so i will have her get some! thanks again, bill
I am 13 years ahead of you at 81, but I still find an occasional use for Kroil.
I gave half of the gallon I bought 15 years ago, to one of my sons.
We each still have plenty remaining.
 

motionclone

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Kroil is the best for a penetrating lube. Just bought a new can other day on amazon. $34 for 16.5 oz can
It smells good too. If they made a kroil candle id buy it for the shop. Tire burnout and race gas would make good candle smells too.
 

fried1765

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Kroil is the best for a penetrating lube. Just bought a new can other day on amazon. $34 for 16.5 oz can
It smells good too. If they made a kroil candle id buy it for the shop. Tire burnout and race gas would make good candle smells too.
Kroil is horribly expensive,...... but wonderfully good!
Some say that a home brew of 50% ATF and 50% Acetone is just as good.
I dunno,....but I do not believe that ATF and Acetone mix very well.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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50/50 ace/atf works great. it's been my 'goto ' for 3 decades after it unstuck a 'stuck' tractor engine that'd sat for 25 years,after all the commercial ($$$) stuff didn't work.
 
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D2Cat

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It's been re-hashed before.

If original poster is looking for a product to protect his chrome rams Fluid Film will do. It used by guys who plow snow on the bottoms of their plow trucks. You can purchase a spray can at some auto parts stores. I buy it by the gallons.

 
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fried1765

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It's been re-hashed before.

If original poster is looking for a product to protect his chrome rams Fluid Film will do. It used by guys who plow snow on the bottoms of their plow trucks. You can purchase a spray can at some auto parts stores. I buy it by the gallons.

I have used both Fluid Film, and LPS-3.
I prefer LPS-3, as do many steel built fishing boat owners.
 

Boatman

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Another vote for LPS3. Expensive but definitely worth the cost. Been using it for over 25 years to store equipment and machinery in an unheated, dirt floor pole barn. Never any rust where it was used. WD40 on the other hand,,,,,, once it evaporates, fairly quickly, rust.
 

Mark_BX25D

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Some say that a home brew of 50% ATF and 50% Acetone is just as good.
I dunno,....but I do not believe that ATF and Acetone mix very well.
Some machinist's magazine did a very good controlled test on various penetrating oils maybe 10 or 15 years ago. Acetone/ATF won hands down.

And no, it doesn't mix very well. I bought some cheap 4 ounce squeeze bottles that are acetone safe and have a needle spout. I just keep shaking it as I use it. Works great, except for areas where I need to spray it upwards. Then I use PB Blaster in an aerosol can, because it's decently good and readily available. Seafoam's Deep Creep is slightly better, but harder to find.

But I would not use any of those as a protectant.

I missed a chance on getting a lifetime supply of Kroil a few years back. Some guy was cleaning out his father's garage and was selling nine 1 gallon cans for $40 each.

I'm still kicking myself.
 

D2Cat

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For those who did not click on the link.


Sep 2, 2015




Ran across this file while looking for information on freeing up plungers on a Cat engine.

It's about 3 years old, but shouldn't matter.

I get the acetone in a qt. can at Wal Mart paint dept.


Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.
 
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Mark_BX25D

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I have used both Fluid Film, and LPS-3.
I prefer LPS-3, as do many steel built fishing boat owners.

Haven't tried LPS-3, but it sounds pretty good. It's a petroleum product, which might matter for some applications. Probably not for tractor cylinders, of course!

Unless the acetone in it might attack the seals. I don't know about that.