Grease gun recommendation

Gary Olson

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L2501 w/FEL and grapple, 3pt auger
Mar 10, 2022
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I last bought a grease gun in 22 BI*. Back then you bought the metal American made grease gun at NAPA Auto parts. These days Made in America has a subjective meaning. What grease gun do you recommend for my new orange L2501 tractor?
thanks
Gary

*Before Internet
 

Bmyers

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The grease gun that anyone would recommend is whatever one you will use on a regular basis.

If you prefer a manual gun and will use it, that is the perfect one for you. If you prefer an automatic/powered grease gun and will use it, then that is the perfect gun.

The point being, just make sure you are greasing. I know I have DeWalt grease gun and that is what I use.

Another item you may want to look at is the Lock-N-Lube. Many of us have had good luck with it.

If you ask which grease to use, you will get a dozen different answers. The key point is to use grease and use it regularly.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Simple... Buy TWO ! use one for ONLY the Kubota, ONLY !! Keep 2nd as a spare, on the shelf behind the one you'll use.
 

fried1765

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DeWalt, or Milwau
I last bought a grease gun in 22 BI*. Back then you bought the metal American made grease gun at NAPA Auto parts. These days Made in America has a subjective meaning. What grease gun do you recommend for my new orange L2501 tractor?
thanks
Gary

*Before Internet
DeWalt, or Milwaukee, 18V battery powered grease gun, and with Lock-N-Lube!
Not cheap, but extremely easy to use.
I have always hated greasing, but...at 81 I REALLY hate greasing!
It is actually sorta OK now though.
 
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Roadworthy

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I prefer to use a lithium based grease for roller and ball bearings. I use a grease with molybdenum disulfide for sliding surfaces like the front loader. I have read that it is not recommended for ball or roller bearings as it may cause the bearings to slide on the shaft instead of roll as designed - it's too slick.
 
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RCW

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Like Bmyers said - whatever gun suits you and what you will use. I have 4 of different flavors.

That said, I highly recommend a Lock N' Lube coupler for whatever gun you have.
 

lmichael

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Kubota G2160
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Last year I was looking as well as my air powered one is kerput and my hand powered one is MIA. No clue where it is. Also with the number of fittings on the Kubota I decided a very long hose and battery power were important. Went to my Farm and Fleet found the Lincoln brand on sale as well as DeWalt and the Milwaukee at regular price. Both the Lincoln and DeWalt were $50 for the full "kit". I chose the DeWalt over the other 2 as it was the only one not made in China. It's made in US
 

NCL4701

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As others have said, get something you’ll actually use.

The electric ones sound swell but I have three: one for moly for pins, one for lithium for bearings, one for some very specific synthetic I have to use on my zero turn’s deck spindles that I use on nothing else. Three, or even two, electric grease guns is pretty pricey so I have mechanical guns due to their primary advantage; they’re cheap. The other advantage of mechanical grease guns… can’t think of any.
 
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mcfarmall

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Kubota M5660SUHD, Farmall C
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I prefer to use a lithium based grease for roller and ball bearings. I use a grease with molybdenum disulfide for sliding surfaces like the front loader. I have read that it is not recommended for ball or roller bearings as it may cause the bearings to slide on the shaft instead of roll as designed - it's too slick.
3% moly is fine for ball and roller bearings. Sliding becomes an issue at >5% moly content. I've not seen anything >3% at retail stores.
 

85Hokie

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The one thing we ALL can agree on is this:

Lock-n-lube is the cats asss, almost makes greasing fun........ I said almost!! Worth every penny.

and any type of grease is better than a non-lubed joint.
 
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lugbolt

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I used to do tractor work for a living. So yes, lots and lots of grease fittings-often would go through a tube of grease every couple hours depending on the equipment I was working on. Backhoes and excavators were the worst.

I tried an electric/cordless. Too slow, too heavy. Battery was usually low or dead too. Still have it, at home. I use it maybe 3 times a year now. Actually it's probably still got some kubota grease in it. Manual? LOL. I'd have popeye arms from the trigger style. I still have that one too (old Deere greaser). Bought a pneumatic "Husky" brand in I think 2012? Lasted a good while. Piston finally started leaking so I stuck an old deere cartridge on it that I had laying around. Works fine, albeit slow...in comparison. In 16 I picked up a Lincoln pneumatic grease gun. Boy what was I thinking with the others? Top notch. Easy to bleed (nonexistent), change the tube in about 20 seconds, grease a TLB in under 5 minutes (all of them). Easy on the arms too.

Lock and lube works great IF you can get it into where the fittings are. There are quite a few areas on Kubota where it won't fit and that's my gripe with it. I put it on my pistol grip John Deere greaser and use it on the mowers that I service once a year (not mine-it ain't got any) for the neighbors.

The downside to the Lincoln. It goes through grease quick. You have to kinda learn yourself how many times it "pumps", and you don't have to squeeze the trigger at full "throttle" every time you use it. Just because it can empty a tube in about 30 seconds doesn't mean you have to; and I try not to make a big mess on customers' equipment, and/or leave boogers on the floor.
 
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GeoHorn

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As others have said, get something you’ll actually use.

The electric ones sound swell but I have three: one for moly for pins, one for lithium for bearings, one for some very specific synthetic I have to use on my zero turn’s deck spindles that I use on nothing else. Three, or even two, electric grease guns is pretty pricey so I have mechanical guns due to their primary advantage; they’re cheap. The other advantage of mechanical grease guns… can’t think of any.
I can…. No $100 battery/charger to buy and then find it runs out of oomph because it isn’t charged and then put it on the expensive, proprietary charger to find it won’t take a charge after a couple years and then try to find one of those proprietary batteries for sale and when you do it’s now $150. (and no land-fill ends up contaminating the water-supply with leaking worn-out batteries made in china out of dangerous elements)

My 4 manual (lever) guns* are all over 10 years old …cost less than a single battery-powered gun…..and work just as good as the day they were made. The one “trigger” style I have is no longer used because a large job like a tractor wears out the forearm muscles. (I believe those cute trigger-style manual guns is what probably created a market for battery-powered grease guns.)

* (I have 4 different types of grease I use for specific purposes. I painted each gun with a band of paint the same color as the grease inside so I know what type is in which gun. I hang all of them on the lip of a 5-gal bucket with the gun inside the bucket and the lever hooked over the rim of the bucket. Keeps ‘em organized and keeps grease inside the bucket and off places it doesn’t belong.)
 
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lmichael

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Kubota G2160
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Gotta say I love my DeWalt and it's not a one and done battery. Same battery works on my impact wrenches, and my leaf blower. Those 20V batteries last and last and last. Not like the old days with the NiCad batteries
 
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57plymouth

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Kubota L3901 with FEL, 1955 Ford 900 Row Crop
Oct 26, 2020
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Unbiased Grease Gun Comparison

Whatever Project Farm recommends. I will say that there is logic in using only one battery family. If you like Ryobi, stay with it. If you like DeWalt, stay with it.

For a manual gun, they are all pretty much the same. The best one you can buy is the one you will use regularly.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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I can…. No $100 battery/charger to buy and then find it runs out of oomph because it isn’t charged and then put it on the expensive, proprietary charger to find it won’t take a charge after a couple years and then try to find one of those proprietary batteries for sale and when you do it’s now $150. (and no land-fill ends up contaminating the water-supply with leaking worn-out batteries made in china out of dangerous elements)

My 4 manual (lever) guns* are all over 10 years old …cost less than a single battery-powered gun…..and work just as good as the day they were made. The one “trigger” style I have is no longer used because a large job like a tractor wears out the forearm muscles. (I believe those cute trigger-style manual guns is what probably created a market for battery-powered grease guns.)

* (I have 4 different types of grease I use for specific purposes. I painted each gun with a band of paint the same color as the grease inside so I know what type is in which gun. I hang all of them on the lip of a 5-gal bucket with the gun inside the bucket and the lever hooked over the rim of the bucket. Keeps ‘em organized and keeps grease inside the bucket and off places it doesn’t belong.)
Luckily, my "proprietary" grease gun batteries also work with all my other "proprietary" battery DeWalt tools.
Impact wrench, drill driver, Sawzall, circular saw, angle grinder, oscillating cutter.......
Manual grease guns will power......none of the above!

"4 types of grease" .....maybe OCD ???
 
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GeoHorn

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Strangely, my "proprietary" grease gun batteries also work with all my other "proprietary" battery DeWalt tools.
Impact wrench, drill driver, Sawzall, circular saw, angle grinder, oscillating cutter.

"4 types of grease" .....maybe OCD ???
Not OCD……CMR. (Comply with Mfr’s Recommendation)
1- Marine Grease (calcium/alum base) which is water-proof for trailer wheel bearings…which I use on ALL wheel bearings.
2- General Purpose Lithium Grease for most things.
3- Moly Grease which my Loader Manual specifies for pins/bushings.
4- Mobil 28 synthetic specified for airplane landing gear.

You’re sensibly using a ”System” of tool by the same mfr’r (Dewalt) which use the PROPRIETARY Dewalt batteries… which fit NO OTHER tools…. instead of what the industry knew would be more affordable, such as common rechargeable D-cell sizes. The Batteries and chargers are more profitable for them than the tools…so by making them Proprietary they force you to buy only their batteries…and encourage you to do what you did…buy Only THEIR Tools. It’ called “marketing”.

I also use Crest for my Teeth, Comet for the Toilet, Tide for the Clothing, Shampoo for the hair, and Ivory for the body. Do you use the same product for all your cleaning needs?
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Not OCD……CMR. (Comply with Mfr’s Recommendation)
1- Marine Grease (calcium/alum base) which is water-proof for trailer wheel bearings…which I use on ALL wheel bearings.
2- General Purpose Lithium Grease for most things.
3- Moly Grease which my Loader Manual specifies for pins/bushings.
4- Mobil 28 synthetic specified for airplane landing gear.

You’re sensibly using a ”System” of tool by the same mfr’r (Dewalt) which use the PROPRIETARY Dewalt batteries… which fit NO OTHER tools…. instead of what the industry knew would be more affordable, such as common rechargeable D-cell sizes. The Batteries and chargers are more profitable for them than the tools…so by making them Proprietary they force you to buy only their batteries…and encourage you to do what you did…buy Only THEIR Tools. It’ called “marketing”.

I also use Crest for my Teeth, Comet for the Toilet, Tide for the Clothing, Shampoo for the hair, and Ivory for the body. Do you use the same product for all your cleaning needs?
[/QUOTE

Nope!
I use a "proprietary battery" powered "Braun" toothbrush,....... and I Never use it to clean the toilet! :p

Marine grease will work just fine for items 1-3 above.
I rather doubt that the landing gear mfg. would specifically require "Mobil 28 synthetic".
 
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GeoHorn

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Marine grease will work just fine for items 1-3 above.
I rather doubt that the landing gear mfg. would specifically require "Mobil 28 synthetic"
Marine grease does NOT contain “moly” which my loader manual specifie….(and which subsequently I also use it on the plain sheaves and sliders on my hangar door because moly-grease works better and doesn’t “squeal” from lack of proper lubrication as did the marine grease I first tried to get-away with as you seem to suggest for everything.)

The Mobil 28 is one brand of grease which meets the Mil-Spec specified for the landing gear which “marine grease” and “general purpose” greases do NOT. Aircraft are properly serviced with specified lubricants and fuels which meet ASTM or Mil-Specs, etc. and other “general purpose” things that you think “will work just fine” are NOT appropriate OR legal.

Next time you fly on the airlines why don’t you suggest they use ordinary unleaded mo-gas instead of jet fuel and boat-trailer grease in the flight controls to show them how foolish you think they are. (Perfect example there: Jet fuel (many people believe) is just ordinary kerosene.…NOT. Ordinary kerosene does not contain anti-icing and high-flow, high-pressure fuel pump lube additives and it doesn’t contain paraffin which can solidify and block filters at high altitude temperatures (typically below minus-50-degrees F. Blocking that filter will result in engine flameout and things get hairy for the remainder of the glide.… but perhaps your process is better…it gets rid of jet noise when the engine quits…at the expense of crash-noise in the neighborhood.)

Different products for different purposes.

Meanwhile you can do to your machines what you think appropriate…and I’ll treat my machines the way I think they should be treated…and let others decide which route they want to go.

Perhaps they’ll appreciate knowing the difference in methods instead of having someone tell them to use the same product for everything even if the mfr’r says otherwise.
 
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fried1765

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I
Now you’re being asinine. Marine grease dose NOT contain “moly” which my loader manual specifies.
The Mobil 28 is one brand of grease which meets the Mil-Spec specified for the landing gear which “marine grease” and “general purpose” greases do NOT. Aircraft are properly serviced with specified lubricants and fuels which meet ASTM or Mil-Specs, etc. and other “general purpose” things that you think “will work just fine” are NOT appropriate OR legal.

Next time you fly on the airlines why don’t you suggest they use ordinary unleaded mo-gas instead of jet fuel and boat-trailer grease in the flight controls to show them how smart you are.
I have literally burned MILLIONS of gallons of jet fuel, and have never used even an ounce of "mo gas" in an airplane!
Fly by wire controls do not use grease!
 
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