Supporting loader when under

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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I know on my LA765 it is a simple mechanical block that prevents movement of the joystick and nothing else. Not saying that’s universal to all loaders. Certainly useful for some things but not useful for working under the loader.
I think you’re correct. It would be a good idea though to prevent the joystick from being knocked and releasing the loader.
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
I’m thinking that’s why there are a variety of solutions to the problem utilized by different operators.

Some, such as me, have loaders that are practical to simply remove. We remove and reinstall often enough the process becomes very quick and easy. Removal is a viable option for those type loaders in addition to the options for loaders which are not practical to remove.

Some loaders, such as yours, are not practical to remove. Some operators of quick attach loader machines never remove the loader or don’t have an acceptable place to remove it so remove/reinstall is prohibitively daunting for them. For those loaders and situations, removal is not a viable option. The options mentioned in this thread other than removal; tall jacks, chaining to an adequate overhead structure, or hydraulic cylinder sleeve type blocks would be more appropriate for working under a loader such as yours.

Regardless whether your loader is practical to remove or not, if lifted to gain access for service, it must be mechanically supported to create a safe working environment due to severity of bodily injury in the unlikely, but occasional, event of a catastrophic hydraulic failure. To me, it’s no different than working under a vehicle without jack stands, blocks, or some other redundant mechanical support device.

That said, I fully admit that is my opinion based on my experience with sudden catastrophic failure of hydraulic devices supporting loads over my person which would have severely injured or killed me but for adequate mechanical redundant devices. I am not your father or wife or boss so if you choose to work under your loader supported solely by the machine’s hydraulics because the loader is impractical to remove (or any other reason) and you don’t wish to employ any other alternatives to secure it, I certainly wish you well and hope your loader never crushes you.
I do not understand why you have concluded that "I don't wish to employ any other alternatives to secure it" (loader).
My comment was purely about it not being realistic to REMOVE SOME loaders!
I neither mentioned nor implied that I did not wish to protect myself from harm while under the loader itself.

In my (and some other situations) It is simply not practical to remove the loader without much time, and a handful of wrenches.
I remove the Kubota Q/A bucket and block my loader up.
Is there another method that I am missing?

I can remove my entire 1920 Ford FEL in 5 minutes.
My Ford FEL is Q/A!
My Kubota l48 FEL is not!
 
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notforhire

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Kubota L47
Dec 5, 2019
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55
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Meadows of Dan VA.
I know on my LA765 it is a simple mechanical block that prevents movement of the joystick and nothing else. Not saying that’s universal to all loaders. Certainly useful for some things but not useful for working under the loader.
Agree.
I believe that lock is only there to prevent accidental operation of the loader. I once saw a photo of a rather large tractor that was pulling a trailer. I understand there was a child passenger in the cab who lowered the bucket while the tractor was traveling at road speed. The bucket, still attached to the loader arms ended up just ahead of the rear wheels.
Use of the lock could have prevented the accident.
 

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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Edgewood, New Mexico
I do not understand why you have concluded that "I don't wish to employ any other alternatives to secure it" (loader).
My comment was purely about it not being realistic to REMOVE SOME loaders!
I neither mentioned nor implied that I did not wish to protect myself from harm while under the loader itself.

In my (and some other situations) It is simply not practical to remove the loader without much time, and a handful of wrenches.
I remove the Kubota Q/A bucket and block my loader up.
Is there another method that I am missing?

I can remove my entire 1920 Ford FEL in 5 minutes.
My Ford FEL is Q/A!
My Kubota l48 FEL is not!
I think the only other options for you are to chain the loader to a shop truss or beam, or buy those steel blocks from tractor Mike that someone posted a link to.
 

Old_Paint

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LX2610SU, LA535 FEL w/54" bucket, LandPride BB1248, Woodland Mills WC-68
Dec 5, 2020
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If you want 5 only ways to be safe, you can ask 5 other people. But, generally speaking, what everyone is telling you is that you need to be smarter than what you're working on. If you're not, you'll be testing Darwin's theory of selectivity. You will probably lose that contest if the opposing creature is made of steel. The human body is tough, but not that tough. Darwin's theory suggests the more intelligent creature will win over brute strength every time if that intelligence is applied to protecting the species.

It doesn't take long for an argument to start about how safe someone else's methods are. People are defensive, regardless of which method they use or what accessories they have for their tractor safety. "I've been doing it that way for years" and "my machine has that designed into it" always become the justifications for something they feel is safe enough for them, but if you're not quite comfortable with how safe it is, then I suggest you find a different tactic rather than arguing with someone else how to do it or questioning their luck.

By far, for 'non-removable' loaders, the cylinder blocks are the best alternative if the job that needs to be done requires it be lifted more than a couple hours. But, if it's longer, consider removal. A stripped bolt or damaged pin can be replaced. Your life cannot. If the task requires extended time and increased exposure to the hazard, then certainly improved safety precautions are warranted. Just make sure any prop you select is steel and has appropriate retainers to keep it from falling off. ALWAYS prop both sides if you use a prop. The boom can and will twist enough for it to become unstable, especially if you have some wear in the pins, or worse, it moves the center of gravity to one side by relieving part of the weight on the other side if the prop is on the floor or overhead. We all know what happens when one tips over. Nothing good.

For any QuikTach system, it's MUCH smarter to simply remove the loader. Maybe not quite as convenient as just holding it up for that few minutes to check the air-filter but ask yourself how long it will take for that thing to kill you. A lot less time than it takes to remove the loader, I assure you. It can't fall on you if it isn't close enough to reach you.

How much are you willing to do to keep you alive? That is what you should do to make sure you're safe around that tractor. EVERY TIME. The most dangerous tractor is one that isn't running and is similar to an "unloaded" gun. They're the most dangerous of all, because they breed apathy and complacency. Just like a loaded weapon, ALWAYS treat that tractor like it CAN and WILL kill you. Think about EVERY way it can hurt you and do what has to be done to make sure it cannot. Safety might add a few extra steps and take a bit more time, but how long will it take for that machine to kill you dead? If it can fall on you, block it, remove it, or lower it to the lowest possible position. Gravity is NOT your friend except in the last condition. If it can spray (inject) you, relieve the pressure. If it can roll, chock it (two wheels in both directions, minimum). Do EVERYTHING you can to make sure that you're safe. This goes for any tool or power equipment. Easier to do is seldom a solution in safety. I'd even recommend a check sheet for any maintenance activity you do on the tractor which requires lifting it or part of it to make sure you don't forget "that one little thing" that could save your life. I do, and I don't miss safety steps. Something that has been pounded into my brain for the last 40 years in a career that on a normal day was filled with life threatening dangers and hazards. Some may giggle at excessive standards and methods, but those that use them may get the last giggle.

Your tractor, your life, your choice.
 
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Henro

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B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex., Beer fridge
May 24, 2019
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End of the day, my thinking follows Oldpaint's pretty much.

If you can, remove the loader. Then when working on the tractor it cannot fall on you.

If you cannot remove the loader, take action to support it. TWO cylinder locks, being redundant, seem to offer the best choice.

Hanging the loader from a beam above, maybe second. ONLY because the beam or chain could fail. (Highly unlikely probably, but no redundancy)

Supporting from below with TWO supports maybe third choice, because they could be knocked out of place if something unexpected happens.
 
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Mark_BX25D

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Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
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Virginia
If you cannot remove the loader, take action to support it. TWO cylinder locks, being redundant, seem to offer the best choice.
A secondary concern with using only one is that, while one might save your life, it might allow for torquing and consequently bending the loader arms, since one side is supported and one is not.
 

TheOldHokie

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windyridgefarm.us
A secondary concern with using only one is that, while one might save your life, it might allow for torquing and consequently bending the loader arms, since one side is supported and one is not.
They are sold in pairs. I certainly hope my loader is sturdy enough it is not going to bend under its own weight.

Dan
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,843
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Eastham, Ma
End of the day, my thinking follows Oldpaint's pretty much.

If you can, remove the loader. Then when working on the tractor it cannot fall on you.

If you cannot remove the loader, take action to support it. TWO cylinder locks, being redundant, seem to offer the best choice.

Hanging the loader from a beam above, maybe second. ONLY because the beam or chain could fail. (Highly unlikely probably, but no redundancy)

Supporting from below with TWO supports maybe third choice, because they could be knocked out of place if something unexpected happens.
The obvious!
ALL TRUE!
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
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windyridgefarm.us
Hmmm. A sudden failure with only one side supported? Might be dicey.
No. Even with the empty bucket still on my LA525 the unsupported side will simply droop 1-2". Nothing bent and nobody killed or maimed. A total nothing burger and I know that for a fact.

Dan
 
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SRRGC1

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BX1870-1, BX23S TLB, RTV XG850, MX5100DT
Jan 6, 2021
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Bloomsburg
Alot of good ideas. Chaining the loader to a beam or truss is good but seems like it takes some time and extra effort. Safety is always important. I attached a photo of what I did. One on each side of FEL. Picture does not show, but the supports are on both sides of each lift rod. Some will ask what keeps them from popping out. I will tell you that once you lower the FEL down on the supports they will NOT come out. Some will certainly disagree.
 

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