Sticking rear remote

[rAzkid]

I have a set of two OEM rear remotes on my LX3310 w/cab which are just over a year old Remote 1 sticks and is hard to move. I removed the lever from the cylinder and the lever moves freely so the problem is in the cylinder. I've tried spraying it with Kroil and working it up and down with the lever to no avail. Anything else I can try with having to remove the remote itself from the tractor. Remote 2 works fine. TIA.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have a set of two OEM rear remotes on my LX3310 w/cab which are just over a year old Remote 1 sticks and is hard to move. I removed the lever from the cylinder and the lever moves freely so the problem is in the cylinder. I've tried spraying it with Kroil and working it up and down with the lever to no avail. Anything else I can try with having to remove the remote itself from the tractor. Remote 2 works fine. TIA.

I assume when you say cylinder you mean the spool in the valve. If the spool is sticking in the valve body the valve needs to be removed and serviced.

Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hope it's still under warranty!
If it is have a dealer fix it, it's not something a normal mechanic / owner should deal with.
It won't be as simple as pull it apart and clean it.
And you CAN NOT alter the spool or the body as it WILL leak if you do so!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hope it's still under warranty!
If it is have a dealer fix it, it's not something a normal mechanic / owner should deal with.
It won't be as simple as pull it apart and clean it.
And you CAN NOT alter the spool or the body as it WILL leak if you do so!

And a simple swap with a new replacement is only $900

Dan

 

[Dave_eng]

Interested to know if the remote valve with the problem is one with a detent.

Loader valves are often reported on the forum as being stiff and in the the end rusty balls and springs in the cap containing the float detent hardware are very rusty.

If this LX3310 remote valve has a detent, could the owner safely remove the detent cap and not touch the rest of the remote valve assembly?

I have two remotes on a different model of tractor. One of my valves has a pressure kick off detent and is always stiffer and fussier than the other non detent valve.

Dave

 

[TheOldHokie]

Interested to know if the remote valve with the problem is one with a detent.

Loader valves are often reported on the forum as being stiff and in the the end rusty balls and springs in the cap containing the float detent hardware are very rusty.

If this LX3310 remote valve has a detent, could the owner safely remove the detent cap and not touch the rest of the remote valve assembly?

I have two remotes on a different model of tractor. One of my valves has a pressure kick off detent and is always stiffer and fussier than the other non detent valve.

Dave

Disassembling a sectional valve work section is not brain surgery. You just have to exercise care when removing the endcap. The springs and balls can get away from you if you are not careful. However the component parts diagram for those valves does not show any of that. It looks like the spool and endcap assembly screw into the body and is not serviceable. The only parts you can purchase are a seal kit and the entire valve. Unless the spool is sticking in the body and you can free it up it looks like the fix is a new work section @ $900. That price is insane. No - let me change that to verging on criminal.

Dan

 

[Daferris]

On the LX models you can only get a float dentent valve for the 2nd remote. There is not physical room for it on the 1st remote.

 

[rAzkid]

Thanks for all of the replies. Heading to the dealer today to see what and if they can do for me to lessen the pain! The only time I use that remote is with the snow blower chute rotation so it hasn't been used very much. I suppose if I end up having to get a new one it justifies buying some other implement that would use it during the rest of the year to keep it from getting bound up from lack of use! Think my wife will buy that line?!
Has anyone used an OEM along with an aftermarket valve and have them mounted together without a problem?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, wonder if they did a 'preflush' before installing them ? It sounds like some 'foreign particle' is kinda lodged between spool and body.Hopefully dealer can just remove/clean/reinstall/good to go and not cost you an 'arm and a leg'.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Th

Thanks for all of the replies. Heading to the dealer today to see what and if they can do for me to lessen the pain! The only time I use that remote is with the snow blower chute rotation so it hasn't been used very much. I suppose if I end up having to get a new one it justifies buying some other implement that would use it during the rest of the year to keep it from getting bound up from lack of use! Think my wife will buy that line?!
Has anyone used an OEM along with an aftermarket valve and have them mounted together without a problem?

Valve sections from different manufacturers do not interchange. The only valve you can put in that stack is the Kubota valve. Kubota is probably using a standard offering from some OEM but they do not share that information. The mounting manifold used to mount those valves on the tractor is 100% Kubota and it only works with their valves.

Here is a picture of a custom made manifold and commodity work section I am trying to retrofit to my L3901. The bolt patterns and internal passages are specific to this particular valve. It would not match up with the ones on the Kubota valves. I am using high quality valves not cheap junk and that work section on the far right costs $135. Kubota wants $900 for the one on your LX,.

Dan

 

[rAzkid]

Has anyone rebuilt one of these valves? Does the plunger (E) just slide out of the valve body after you remove the lever off of the top of it?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I imagine it d

Has anyone rebuilt one of these valves? Does the plunger (E) just slide out of the valve body after you remove the lever off of the top of it?
View attachment 75101

I can't see any other possibility. What do you have in mind - cleaning? I am guessing the dealer was not helpful?
Dan

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There's really nothing to rebuild, besides a couple external seals.
If it's not leaking, not much can be done with it.

 

[rAzkid]

Thanks but I'd like to hear from someone that has actually taken one of these apart so I know for sure. There is a hex shaped piece on the bottom that may be used to twist out the plunger. The seal kit isn't expensive so I'm thinking of just trying to replace them first. The drawing isn't helpful to understand how the valve works. Wondering what the stack of what look like washers, above the hex shaped piece, is for.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It looks like 'E' is the spool valve to control where the oil goes. It's not just a smooth 'rod' as shown, will have 'grooves' milled here and there.I'm thinking the hole in the milled top attaches to some kind of lever
One of those , have to see it in person,on a clean bench with lots of lighting.
A proper WSM shoud have detailed pictures on disassembly and rebuild of it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks but I'd like to hear from someone that has actually taken one of these apart so I know for sure. There is a hex shaped piece on the bottom that may be used to twist out the plunger. The seal kit isn't expensive so I'm thinking of just trying to replace them first. The drawing isn't helpful to understand how the valve works. Wondering what the stack of what look like washers, above the hex shaped piece, is for.

Here is a similar valve (different manufacturer) I have on my bench right this second. It is a sealed unit and quite obvious the whole assembly is screwed into the back of the housing. Once you unscrew the sealed cartridge portion the attached spool can be CAREFULLY withdrawn from the body. Scratches or nicks on the glands will turn it into scrap. The other stuff in the parts diagram are stem seals and bushings. You may find its just got some junk trapped in the bore and a little shop air will fix it right up. Coat the spool with clean hydraulic oil before you put it back in.

Dan

PS> You never did tell us what the dealer said.

 

[rAzkid]

Thanks Dan. That looks very similar to what I have, which is the valve on the left. I talked with the dealer and it is under warranty. The problem is their shop is a first come, first served so it could get tied up there just sitting and waiting to be repaired and waiting for parts to arrive. The seal kit isn't expensive so I debated installing the kit myself and not tying up the tractor for an indefinite amount of time.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan. That looks very similar to what I have, which is the valve on the left. I talked with the dealer and it is under warranty. The problem is their shop is a first come, first served so it could get tied up there just sitting and waiting to be repaired and waiting for parts to arrive. The seal kit isn't expensive so I debated installing the kit myself and not tying up the tractor for an indefinite amount of time.
View attachment 75399

Problem with doing it yourself is what happens to warranty coverage if your effort fails? Buying a replacement is 3 figures.

Dan