R14s - Closer to R1s or R4s in the field?

[Keadog]

As in title. My MX6000 was shipped with R4s (which I do not want, having had them on a prior Grand L - R1s are on the order sheet); the dealer is offering either R1s or R14s.
I rarely take the tractors onto lawn areas, but when I do the L4300 with R1s makes pretty impressive ruts. I need to decide by early next week which to ask for. I'm probably sticking with R1s but thought I would post here to see if anyone has real world experience with planting (no till drill), bush hogging and work in the woods with the R14s.
Thanks.

 

[jyoutz]

As in title. My MX6000 was shipped with R4s (which I do not want, having had them on a prior Grand L - R1s are on the order sheet); the dealer is offering either R1s or R14s.
I rarely take the tractors onto lawn areas, but when I do the L4300 with R1s makes pretty impressive ruts. I need to decide by early next week which to ask for. I'm probably sticking with R1s but thought I would post here to see if anyone has real world experience with planting (no till drill), bush hogging and work in the woods with the R14s.
Thanks.

I have no experience with them but the titan website says they have thicker sidewalls more similar to R4s. Also I think they can mount on the same wheels as R4s is I read the spec sheet correctly, saving you a lot of money. You would have to buy new wheels for R1s.

 

[Keadog]

I have no experience with them but the titan website says they have thicker sidewalls more similar to R4s. Also I think they can mount on the same wheels as R4s is I read the spec sheet correctly, saving you a lot of money. You would have to buy new wheels for R1s.

The tractor was ordered with R1s on the contract. Kubota shipped it with R4s. The dealer is offering me the choice of R14s or R1s (as ordered) as I have already declined the R4s based on past experience. Either choice will have to be ordered, but they are still waiting for the rear hydraulics kit so it isn't ready to be delivered anyhow. My guess is Kubota will make the dealer whole on the wheel/tire swap, as the order sheet is unambiguous.

So I'm trying to get feedback from folks who have used R14s in the field before committing. I knew nothing about the R14s when I ordered the tractor last year.


I won't need it until April or May and I still have me L4300 if something comes up in the mean time, so the wait isn't killing me.

 

[Njtool]

I have a much smaller tractor, LX2610, but I have R-14’s. I do a lot of work in the woods with a grapple, clearing land, leveling, etc. And I bush hog, use a front mounted post hole digger, backhoe, etc.

I haven’t destroyed anyone’s lawn, or my own. I have driven over lots of grass while cleaning up downed trees etc.

I would definitely order the R-14’s again. They have great traction, even in the snow when plowing, in my wetland area when I was pulling logs, and in normal mud that my farm seems to have an abundance of. And they haven’t ripped up or left ruts in lawns.

I hope this helps

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I’ve looked a little on line but can’t seem to find what I would call a data sheet comparison. For what it’s worth….https://www.messicks.com/school/tested-surprising-traction-differences-betwee

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

work in the woods with the R14s.
Thanks.

Hands down R14's, they have better traction than R1 in wooded conditions, and they are tougher like R4's.
They are a huge improvement on both the R1's and the R4's.

 

[edritchey]

Hands down R14's, they have better traction than R1 in wooded conditions, and they are tougher like R4's.
They are a huge improvement on both the R1's and the R4's.

Good to hear we have a new one ordered with the R14s

 

[Keadog]

Thanks for the reports.
Anyone else, positive or negative?

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Thanks for the reports.
Anyone else, positive or negative?

Let’s start with I don’t know…however we can ask ourselves some questions for another perspective…how can any one of reasonably measure the difference between two sets of tires on same machine and same ground conditions…that’s a really tough thing for an average person to duplicate much less measure. So for what ever it is that you are trying to purchase how do you create a criteria for better in the case of the tires? Could be appearance…no kidding look at all the mall crawlers running around town that most likely never went over a curb much less to the top of 7 mile rim or rubicon or whatever trail you like. You are getting a new tractor and it’s going to be awesome…I guess don’t sweat the little stuff. If you are truly worried about traction and pulling power, the easy solution is bigger / heavier…I think the weight and ballast matter more than the treads. Beyond that look at pulling tractors or skidders or golf course fairway mowers or whatever for the tasks you want to do. If you are worried about sidewall construction then maybe that is something else between radial or bias? I don’t know. I guess we can over analyze things pretty easily when we can’t seem to be able to measure them. Get what you want…4WD will make a bigger difference than whichever R you pick…your new tractor will be awesome.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

rc51stierhoff,
Have you any real world experience with the difference in the three tire types?

I for one have, and on many different sizes and types of equipment.

There is a world of obvious difference in the tire types and performance related to them.

And 4wd or not it doesn't amount to much when the tires just spin on the surface.

If you've never done woods work you wouldn't know about all the issues with soft sidewalls or soft tread surface.

 

[Njtool]

True. But the question of damage a tire can do is relevant. In very wet conditions, all tires will do damage. But on average conditions, there can be a huge difference.

I assumed he was asking about people’s experience with different tires.

As the OP states. He has had experience with R-1’s and they did more damage than he expected.

Of course tire width and weight have a lot to do with it, but generally speaking, people can give their opinions. It’s up to each person to decide what to do with those opinions.

As for wall thickness, I go into the woods and I pull out invasive species, Russian olive, multiflora rose, and barberry. All three of them have thorns or small twigs that act as thorns. I haven’t punctured my sidewall yet but I try to be careful. So sidewall thickness is important in those cases. And as the OP stated, he will be working in the woods and brush hogging. So you would have to assume he will encounter branches, twigs, thorns, and other hazards.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

rc51stierhoff,
Have you any real world experience with the difference in the three tire types?

I for one have, and on many different sizes and types of equipment.

There is a world of obvious difference in the tire types and performance related to them.

And 4wd or not it doesn't amount to much when the tires just spin on the surface.

If you've never done woods work you wouldn't know about all the issues with soft sidewalls or soft tread surface.

I happy for you and your experience. That’s a really great. But I am pretty sure I did not make any recommendations other than ‘get what you want’. My only point really is there lots of recommendations without any way to realistic measure it for the average person. I don’t believe most of us have the opportunity to swap ballasted tires out on same day to try another set. All depends on application for me. To your question, I am familiar with 2 of the 3 types but not on the same machine in same conditions. And I have spent some time in the woods. I am pretty sure I did not make any claims or recommendations on tire selection though. If you think 4WD doesn’t help then don’t use it. I am not really sure where you are going with your suggestions / questions but I gather it’s not flattering. All I can think to say is thank you…I thought I asked a couple questions to add another perspective for someone getting ready to shell out some money and suggested his new Mx would be awesome.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I happy for you and your experience. That’s a really great. But I am pretty sure I did not make any recommendations other than ‘get what you want’. My only point really is there lots of recommendations without any way to realistic measure it for the average person. I don’t believe most of us have the opportunity to swap ballasted tires out on same day to try another set. All depends on application for me. To your question, I am familiar with 2 of the 3 types but not on the same machine in same conditions. And I have spent some time in the woods. I am pretty sure I did not make any claims or recommendations on tire selection though. If you think 4WD doesn’t help then don’t use it. I am not really sure where you are going with your suggestions / questions but I gather it’s not flattering. All I can think to say is thank you…I thought I asked a couple questions to add another perspective for someone getting ready to shell out some money and suggested his new Mx would be awesome.

I think you missing the bigger point, the OP asked for our opinions on what tire might work best and our experiences with them.

Why are you taking this as a personal attack on you?

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I think you missing the bigger point, the OP asked for our opinions on what tire might work best and our experiences with them.

Why are you taking this as a personal attack on you?

I guess since there was a mail addressed directly to me and questioned if I have used any of the tires in topic and suggested I have not experience in the woods….Maybe I misread that. Anyway, I don’t disagree that r14 could be a better tire than some of the other types, but I do question how we can measure it. That’s it. I’d love to hear how to measure it - I mean really how do we measure it?

 

[jyoutz]

Let’s start with I don’t know…however we can ask ourselves some questions for another perspective…how can any one of reasonably measure the difference between two sets of tires on same machine and same ground conditions…that’s a really tough thing for an average person to duplicate much less measure. So for what ever it is that you are trying to purchase how do you create a criteria for better in the case of the tires? Could be appearance…no kidding look at all the mall crawlers running around town that most likely never went over a curb much less to the top of 7 mile rim or rubicon or whatever trail you like. You are getting a new tractor and it’s going to be awesome…I guess don’t sweat the little stuff. If you are truly worried about traction and pulling power, the easy solution is bigger / heavier…I think the weight and ballast matter more than the treads. Beyond that look at pulling tractors or skidders or golf course fairway mowers or whatever for the tasks you want to do. If you are worried about sidewall construction then maybe that is something else between radial or bias? I don’t know. I guess we can over analyze things pretty easily when we can’t seem to be able to measure them. Get what you want…4WD will make a bigger difference than whichever R you pick…your new tractor will be awesome.

I agree. I had R4s on my last small lightweight 25hp tractor. The R4s sucked in snow. I have R4s on my new MX6000. The tractor is awesome in snow. Weight and hp make a difference.

 

[mikester]

Post your opinions on the R14'2 when you get them. My guess is less traction in the muck but better floatation on your lawns.

My experience has been if the R4's loose traction in the mud then the turfs will be useless in the same spot. If I was dealing primarily with mud and soft ground I'd be going to the R1's.

 

[Keadog]

Lots of multiflora rose. The property is hilly, so there are areas I just don't take the tractor on. I mow with a Ventrac and plow with a Ranger. There are some times when I need to use the FEL around the house; otherwise I would probably stick with the R1s. BUT, it would be really nice to not worry about driving over the lawn as much. And would use it more for mulching, etc rather than the small bed on the Ranger.

Some of my food plot sites get muddy when it's wet and one of my trails on the perimeter of the property is often muddy at a corner.

I just don't want to get stuck. I have managed to never get my L4300 stuck, but have used it to extricate the Ventrac from a couple areas I should have left alone when mowing.

Thanks for the replies.

I have until tomorrow morning to decide...

 

[hodge]

My father and I both have tractors with R1's, and we both live in the mountains. Our tractors are used extensively in wooded, leaf covered, rocky and muddy terrain. Neither one of us have had significant issues with traction or tire damage. There are so many variables, most involving skill, usage, and perspective. There isn't a tire available that you can't get stuck with, so the question becomes which one performs best, not perfect. So, taking my own experiences, and those of the posters on this thread- If I were making the decision, I would be inclined to try out the R14's. Great traction and thicker side walls would give me confidence that, coupled with experience and common sense, I could use my new tractor as safely and effectively as possible.

 

[GSD-Keegan]

I have R14s on my 2601 with loader and back hoe. Tires are not loaded. I was worried about my lawn when I ordered, but after use I am very happy with the very little turf damage. Of course if the ground is soaked the tires leave impressions. And 4 wheel drive does cause some damage. Only been in very muddy conditions a couple times, so the only thing I can really say is I didn’t get stuck. I would buy them again for my use...which is mostly on grass.

 

[Old_Paint]

R-14's (and loaded) on my LX2610. The only time I mess up my yard if if I turn too sharply or forget to take it out of 4x4 after doing something in the back where lawn is not an issue. They will dig a hole quick if you spin them, but that's no different from R1's. Just recognize that if you're spinning, you're not doing anything, and you'll solve most of your getting stuck problems. The bars aren't as tall as Ag tires, but there's more of them in a pattern that makes them bite a lot better. The stiffer sidewall doesn't hurt either. and also makes the tractor VERY stable.