Block Heater

[Butch]

After reviewing articles on the advantages of engine block heaters I figured it would not be a bad idea to look into getting one for the B2410. After all she does have a little age on her and this can only help on cold mornings. The first stop was at my dealers parts counter.
The block heater shown for the 2410 is available at a reasonable cost. However.... it calls for removing the engine block freeze plug to accommodate the new heater. The mere thought of screwing with the engine block and pressed fits sent shivers down my spine. The installation procedure sounds simple enough but after a LOT of thought I could only think of the many ways this could go south in a hurry... like in screwing up the engine block.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and welcomed.

 

[thebicman]

Having done a few of this type of block heater on car engines and hear what you're saying. Clean the area the best you can and I usually used a dull flat screwdriver or cold chisel and tap on the side. It ends up rolling the plug so you can grab it with pliers. Tons of u tube videos showing removal. Take your time and it will be fine.

 

[07wingnut]

Whatever you do, do not drill thru the frost plug so as to establish a pry point. There is a nightmare thread , either on this site, or tractorbynet, about drilling thru the frost plug and the cylinder wall.

 

[edritchey]

Unless you're keeping the machine outdoors I wouldn't bother with it.

That tractor if kept inside even in a unheated shed as long as the glow plugs are working and you have a good battery and treated fuel it should start easy.

 

[Daferris]

It has the D1105 motor in it the part for the block heater is 70000-73274 About the best price I have seen for them is at R&L Supply. If you need filters or other stuff it's cheaper on their own site if you need just the heater it's $57.54 on E-bay with 5.50 shipping.
To install it it goes right behind the alternator on the left side of the block.
You will need a 17mm Hex bit 1/2" drive socket and a breaker bar and an 8-10" extension. It's in the block pretty tight about 100 or so Foot pounds.
their should be a block drain petcock just under the plug. Remove it so you have room for the next step.
To install the block heater (You do not use the small steel rod or the hose clamp). You will coat the threads with a Teflon pipe dope ( I do not like to use tape). then use a 1-3/8" socket to tighten it into the block use at least 75-80 foot pounds of torque to tighten it or it will leak. then re-install the block drain petcock. re fill the cooling system and connect the 110 volt AC power lead.

Optional ideas - tips things to consider...
1). Completely drain and flush the entire cooling system with distilled water. Then re-fill with a Nitrate free ELC coolant that has a 6 year life. such as this one... https://www.valvoline.com/our-produ...s/zerex-nitrite-free-extended-life-antifreeze

2). Use a waterproof receptacle to plug your extension cord into such as NOCO GCP1 (about $20 on Amazon).

3). Use a remote controlled plug for the block heater. such as a Wi-Fi controlled plug. or an outlet that is on a light switch or breaker that you can turn on from the house before you go out. The block heater at least with the 2 tractors I have used them on B7510 & LX2610 they only need about an hour to get the block warm.

 

[85Hokie]

After reviewing articles on the advantages of engine block heaters I figured it would not be a bad idea to look into getting one for the B2410. After all she does have a little age on her and this can only help on cold mornings. The first stop was at my dealers parts counter.
The block heater shown for the 2410 is available at a reasonable cost. However.... it calls for removing the engine block freeze plug to accommodate the new heater. The mere thought of screwing with the engine block and pressed fits sent shivers down my spine. The installation procedure sounds simple enough but after a LOT of thought I could only think of the many ways this could go south in a hurry... like in screwing up the engine block.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and welcomed.

Butch,

as it has been mentioned several times in the last couple of months - the block heater IS somewhat straight forward, assuming you can "get to" the plug - remove it and then place the new heater in its place without a leak. 1000's have been done with great success.

Another method is the lower hose heater insert - exact same idea - but a cut of a rubber hose is the only problem, both methods will loose fluid, but require the "exact" measurements - lower hose must have the correct ID of the hose as the plug must have the correct heater core plug.

Both require "getting to" - sometimes there is "stuff" in the way that must be removed to gain access. I have cut the hose a couple of times - seems to me the "easier" of the two - but that is just me! Both will slowly circulate water as the water is heated if allowed to heat for a good bit.

 

[Henro]

I have block heaters on both of my tractors. I do not use them much, but i believe they are worthwhile.

I remember the nightmare thread where the guy drilled through his freeze plug and into his cylinder. Bad, bad, bad...do not do this.

Are you sure your block heater installs in a freeze plug with a press fit? This might not be an issue, but for the home owner a screw in application might be more comfortable.

I had block heaters installed on purchase so I do not have a clue about instillation. Can't help but think installition is not rocket science. AS long as you do not drill through a cylinder wall, LOL

 

[Daferris]

The block freeze plug as well as the block heater are threaded into the block

 

[thebicman]

As stated if it's the screw in type then not a hard install. Hardest part is having the strength to remove the threaded plug. Kubota must be using farmers on the assembly line. LOL.

 

[kubotasam]

As Daferris and others said it screws into the side of the block. You will need the hex socket. I put one in my B2410 a couple of years ago. Not a bad job at all.

 

[DustyRusty]

The block freeze plug as well as the block heater are threaded into the block

Block freeze plugs are never screwed into the block, they are always a press fit. If his block has a threaded plug, then it was purposely made that way to accommodate a block heater. If using Teflon of any type, you have to be careful not to overtighten it when installing the block heater. Teflon will reduce the resistance to threading the block heater into the engine. I would only use a thread sealant that doesn't have Teflon in it. If you examine the block heater, you will realize that it is a tapered thread, and you only need to get it snug. If you find that there is a leak, you can always snug it up some more. I use Rectorseal #5 -since once it sets up, it will seal the threads. If you are pushing to get to 75 or 80 PST of torque, you will run the risk of cracking the cast-iron block. It only needs to be tight enough to seal the threads.

 

[JerryMT]

After reviewing articles on the advantages of engine block heaters I figured it would not be a bad idea to look into getting one for the B2410. After all she does have a little age on her and this can only help on cold mornings. The first stop was at my dealers parts counter.
The block heater shown for the 2410 is available at a reasonable cost. However.... it calls for removing the engine block freeze plug to accommodate the new heater. The mere thought of screwing with the engine block and pressed fits sent shivers down my spine. The installation procedure sounds simple enough but after a LOT of thought I could only think of the many ways this could go south in a hurry... like in screwing up the engine block.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and welcomed.

You are not working on the Blue Origin engine or an F-35! It's a tractor.
To knock the core plug out use a punch and a hammer and knock the freeze plug loose by hitting it near the edge of the hole. (You'll want to drain the coolant out first.) It will most likely tun sideways and you can grab it with a pair of pliers and remove it. It would be hard to break anything. On my M4500, there was an internally threaded steel sleeve with a machined smaller diameter end. You drive that end into the core plug hole as far as it will go. The you merely thread the block heater element in the threaded end , connect the electrical cord and refill with coolant. Start it up and check for leaks.

 

[JerryMT]

You are not working on the Blue Origin engine or an F-35! It's a tractor.
To knock the core plug out use a punch and a hammer and knock the freeze plug loose by hitting it near the edge of the hole. (You'll want to drain the coolant out first.) It will most likely tun sideways and you can grab it with a pair of pliers and remove it. It would be hard to break anything. On my M4500, there was an internally threaded steel sleeve with a machined smaller diameter end. You drive that end into the core plug hole as far as it will go. The you merely thread the block heater element in the threaded end, connect the electrical cord and refill with coolant. Start it up and check for leaks.

 

[twomany]

I have been happy with lower radiator hose heaters.

I just purchase a new replacement hose prior to cutting the one that will hold the heater.
On one tractor, fitting the heater prevented a cowl from being refitted. That has worked out OK.

I had a freeze plug heater on a straight six Toyota landCruiser FJ55
The heater was tucked in under the exhaust manifold. One time when stuck in traffic somewhere around Baltimore, smoke started coming out from under the hood. It was a HOT day!. My wife was driving, and wanted to pull over. I told her STAY in your lane! If we pull out, we will never get back in!

The plastic line cord insulation had succumbed to the intense heat. I didn't replace the heater...did without.

Not something likely with a diesel tractor. Manifolds run a bit cooler. But it's a story about freeze plug heaters....

 

[Nicksacco]

Butch,
Other options include oil-dipstick heater, and Oil Pan Heater.
I'm not endorsing these - just showing other options.
Personally I've used the radiator hose heater on a timer and it worked just fine.
The timer was used at night on a car when things got pretty cold to ensure a warm start in the AM.
If you use anything, you've got to ensure the wires are routed away from things and the plug is covered or something. The thing that @Daferris did was superb.

If ya'll have used the oil heaters, were they any good?

 

[Butch]

Whatever you do, do not drill thru the frost plug so as to establish a pry point. There is a nightmare thread , either on this site, or tractorbynet, about drilling thru the frost plug and the cylinder wall.

Wingnut.... That was one of the articles I read... I agree with you.... drilling not an option here either.

 

[Butch]

The block freeze plug as well as the block heater are threaded into the block

lordy... that would be nice!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Go out and look behind the alternator should have a threaded plug there.

 

[kubotasam]

lordy... that would be nice!

Here is picture of my B2410 with a screw in block heater. Remove the plug with 17mm hex key socket. Screw in block heater. Very easy job.

 

[Butch]

Go out and look behind the alternator should have a threaded plug there.

View attachment 73859

Thanks for all the info guys... I really appreciate this group more than you know! The hex wrench plug was what I was going to look for right after my thumb heals a bit more. Eight days ago I was slicing carrots lengthwise and the pad on my left thumb kind of got in the way.
Long story short... I cut a 1/16" thick slice off the thumb pad. being pumped up with three blood thinners I could not get it to stop bleeding, err go a trip to the ER. The docs could not stich it so they used a skin mesh and liquid bandage. Still hurts like hell when I flex on it.