Which Kubota to Buy?

[40 acre wood]

Hello everybody. I'm new here and looking for any advice you all can give me. It seems like a lot of guys out there have a ton of experience. Thanks.

I call myself "40 acre wood" because that's the name my kids gave to our property where my tractor will do its work. I currently own a John Deere 2010 diesel 2wd with trip lever FEL. I have a simple backhoe for it, a snowblower, a brush hog and a back blade. I'm looking to sell it because it is big and bulky and isn't a 4x4. I'll sell all or most of the implements, too.

I'm 39 and I hope to buy a tractor that I will have until I'm pushing up daisies. I'm looking for a powerful, but smaller used 4x4 with FEL, backhoe, back or box blade, front pallet forks and (eventually) front mount snowblower. It has to be small enough to better maneuver around in the woods, but powerful enough to get jobs done for a long time.

My property is all mixed hardwoods, pretty flat, but squishy clay in the Spring.

Here are the things I feel I need, and why:

FEL: This will be used for all the things most guys use them for, plus snow pushing and piling.

Backhoe: My property is all wooded, so I will be digging out stumps for years and years in order to make garden areas, yards, and clearing miles of trails. Also, I'll need to dig footings for buildings and trenches through the woods in order to get water puddles to drain down hill.

Front Mount Snowblower: This can come later, but I don't want to be turned around backwards during a UP blizzard blowing snow when I'm 70.

Back/Box Blade: I've never had a box blade, but I use my back blade for smoothing bumps all the time. My woods are very, very bumpy.

Front Pallet Forks: I've been cutting firewood since I was 10, and it isn't getting any easier. My plan is to use my tractor in the woods to get firewood by driving close to where I'm cutting, then loading wood onto a pallet with sides, then driving to a sunny spot to dry it, then moving it to a shed or near the house in the fall. I'm a little worried about puncturing tires.


Sooooooooo, I was thinking something like the L3400 would be great, then I saw that it is not being built anymore (not that I would buy new), but it got me thinking about all of the Kubotas that have been discontinued over the years, and why.

QUESTION 1: Have there been good and bad models over the years?

QUESTION 2: Can a backoe easily be added to a 3400, or should I look for a BX or B series that was seemingly built with a backhoe in mind?

QUESTION 3: Should I look for a tractor with a mid mount PTO to run a front mount snowblower for years and years, or are the front mount blowers that run off the rear PTO high quality enough to take a lot of abuse?

QUESTION 4: The tires on the BX's look small. I'm worried about getting it stuck in the mud/snow all the time. Are the bigger tires on the L series better protection against this?

QUESTION 5: R4s or Ags? Grip with R4s might be problem, but what about punctures with Ags in the woods?

Thanks so much everybody. I'm sure your answers will lead to even more questions. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Kevin

 

[cabu]

Sorry no answers, but a warm welcome to our big orange family. I hope you will get the baby you need and have a lot of fun and good times with it.

der carl

 

[TripleR]

QUESTION 1: Have there been good and bad models over the years?

I am not aware of any "problem" models though the Lxx00 Series have a jerky 3PH when raised slowly. Some models that were discontinued, were replaced with models only slightly different. You can use Tractor Data to compare models.


QUESTION 2: Can a backoe easily be added to a 3400, or should I look for a BX or B series that was seemingly built with a backhoe in mind?

Sorry, we only used dedicated back hoes or excavators.

QUESTION 3: Should I look for a tractor with a mid mount PTO to run a front mount snowblower for years and years, or are the front mount blowers that run off the rear PTO high quality enough to take a lot of abuse?

Sorry, it rarely snows here, but from other forums, most seem to prefer the MM PTO powered units; no personal experience.

QUESTION 4: The tires on the BX's look small. I'm worried about getting it stuck in the mud/snow all the time. Are the bigger tires on the L series better protection against this?

We are on our second BX and due to the low ground clearance do not do well in much of a snow. They will work, but my preference would be a B or L/GL Series.

QUESTION 5: R4s or Ags? Grip with R4s might be problem, but what about punctures with Ags in the woods?

We use tractors with Ag as well as Industrial and while I won't argue the Industrial has better puncture resistance, we run them side by side and have not punctured either. Unless you are in some really bad stuff, I don't think I would worry too much about it.

Due to erosion, we keep all equipment parked while it is muddy, so we get almost as good of traction with one as the other, but our ground is pretty hard.

Bottom line I think is that Ag tires are not as fragile as some think "unless" you are working in thorns etc.

Hope some of this helps and just one man's opinion.

 

[mccash40]

I just bought a BX2360. This was absolutely the most expensive one I could afford. Already, it has not performed as well as I thought it would. It is a great machine, don't get me wrong, but for the bigger jobs, it just isn't enough machine.
If you can afford it, go as big as possible in the B line.

 

[40 acre wood]

Thanks for the advice so far TripleR and McCash40.
Ground clearance is an issue, so I'll look closely at the Bx clearances compared to the others.
TripleR recommends the B or L series.
Do most B or L series have a mid PTO for a snowblower out front, or is that an option?
McCash40, you recommend a B series. Would you think I should steer clear of the L series for any reason other than cost?
Thanks again, Kevin

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the advice so far TripleR and McCash40.
Ground clearance is an issue, so I'll look closely at the Bx clearances compared to the others.
TripleR recommends the B or L series.
Do most B or L series have a mid PTO for a snowblower out front, or is that an option?
McCash40, you recommend a B series. Would you think I should steer clear of the L series for any reason other than cost?
Thanks again, Kevin

There are so many models, you will really need to spend some time on the Kubota website, looking at pamphlets and kicking tires.

"Most" B Series have MM PTO standard, "Some" GL40 have MM PTO as an option, I didn't see it as an option on the standard L Series.

If a BH is really important, you will get a lot more accomplished with a heavier, more powerful tractor, but a B on the upper end like the 3030 works well. As always, determining factors may boil down to time and money.

It is really hard to determine the "best".

 

[mccash40]

I went looking for Kubotas with an old timer who has spent his life on tractors. He tried to convince me into buying the B3030. We looked at everything in several places and he thought this was the best buy for the money. Trouble was, I was using my money, not his, so I ended up with the BX2360. I'm sure the L series is fine, they didn't have many at the locations we visited, so I didn't really look them over much.

 

[Jim Jacobson]

I found this site in researching for a Kubota purchase. I've been lurking for the better part of a year and decided to join IOT pass along some of the knowledge gained in hopes it may help others in their own Kubota quest.

Although I own Iowa farmland and have worked on those farms, I have never previously purchased a tractor, until now. I recently ordered a Kubota L4740HSTC. It will be used on my 40 acres of hilly WY land (~20% wooded), about 50 miles SE of Jackson; hauling wood, clearing downed trees, brush hogging sagebrush, snowblowing, and gravel road maintenance.

For the last year I've questioned everyone with tractor knowledge and perhaps every farmer in Iowa (they all stopped talking after it was determined I wasn't going to pay for that $5,000/gallon green paint). The result of my questions and research has made the decision easier and raised my comfort level that I have chosen correctly - for me. Actually there are not a lot of JD dealers anywhere near, Kubota being the tractor of preference. If buying in the mid-west a JD certainly would have been more strongly considered.

- Full disclosure. Although affordable, by myself I cannot justify the cost being spent given the Kubota's intended use, so a neighbor and former college roommate and I are splitting the cost and use. We've talked extensively about use and whose responsible to minimize possible conflict.

- The decision was between the L4740 and L5740. In the end it was the 4740, mostly due to need. One thing I have not seen in this forum was the impact of altitude. There is an approx 3% loss of power per thousand feet due to altitude/density. My cabin is at 7,500', resulting in a 25-30% power loss. Be sure and consider that if needed. Although a turbo helps compensate for that loss, the 4740 will have enough power for our needs.
- I quickly found buying a tractor is not like buying a car. Some dealers will not preform warranty work on tractors not purchased from them. Some dealers will not ship the tractor to you (farmers I talked to said use $2/mile as a starting point). Kubota will not pay mileage/travel time for warranty service calls, only the repair. Some dealers charge for set-up, others do not. All those things affect the bottom line so the price of the tractor itself may become secondary when it comes to writing the check.
- We checked dealers from Iowa to Nevada and in between and ended up purchasing from a dealer 250 miles away in Utah. The closest dealer was 130 miles away but the 250 mile away dealer was cheaper by several thousand, did not charge for set-up or delivery, and as part of the agreement will make one warranty call - if needed - for free. He'll "work with us" if additional warranty work is needed, suggesting splitting the fuel costs for his service truck. That's fair.
- I also found that purchasing a used, low-hour Kubota will not save you much over a new one if you shop around, hardly making the used purchase worth it. Yes, there are "deals" out there, but they go quickly and are difficult to find.
- Another lesson from those with experience has been noted here. Buy as big as you need and can afford. Even dealers said the same. When in doubt, go bigger.
- We also went with the cab for obvious reasons. The first time blowing snow a gust of wind blows snow in your face at -20 degrees you'll wish you had the cab.
- A large decision was Ag or Industrial tires. In the end Ag won because the tractor will not be used on hard ground or grass areas. We are going to try use w/out fluid or weights just to see. They may be in our future tho.
- We also went for the front mount snow blower. Actually the price between the front and rear is similar. It's the mounting cradle, attaching hardware and the mid-mount PTO that drives the cost up. Everyone said a rear mount is great if you are just clearing drive-ways and the like, more than that, get the front mount. My friend's cabin is about a mile away from mine and we will have to blow almost two miles of road to his place from where road plowing stops - in addition to our drives. It's windy, the road is curved and in the trees - say drifts.
- Also bought a brush hog and a rear blade. Land Pride makes several different brush hogs. We opted for the heavier duty model because another neighbor has a light duty JD brush hog and the perimeter of the metal is pock marked with rock hits - from the inside out. We ordered the 5' model but the dealer said he would give me a 6' HD model for the same price since he had them in stock. I wanted the maneuverability in the trees. 6' was too wide.
- I also ordered the tractor with the 3rd hydraulic on the FEL because in the future will get a grapple for moving rocks and logs.

Many of you have a lot of experience with Kubotas. I do not, but in the end it was their reputation that won out. My information in no way reflects actual use - I don't even have it yet - only the research conducted over the last year and what those I've talked to have indicated to me. I feel pretty comfortable with my decision because of that research and hope some of the points will help prospective buyers too. BTW, everyone I've talked to said not to worry about the warranty calls...you won't need it. I hope they are right.

 

[skeets]

A very simple rule of thumb,,, figure out what YOU think will work and go one size BIGGER.. I love my 2360 a great LITTLE tractor,, but to do over again,,, yup I would have been high in the "B" series,,, just MHO you understand

 

[UWAdventurer]

I have a L3400 with a woods frame mount back hoe and a FEL. I have 8 acres, 4 of woods and 4 cleared. I have been digging stumps with it and it does a fine job. I also have a 5' bush hog to mow some of the area with and it handles it very well. Try to determine the size of areas you will be working in also, with what I have for room between trees, etc., I would not want anything larger. Mine seems to be the right size for me. I traded a L2950 with FEL for my L3400 so I could have a back hoe, It was a good machine also. Good luck on your choice of machines.