Break In Period?

richschram

New member

Equipment
M7040, Bale Spear, 12" PH digger, 10' disc and lots of other farm junk
Jan 12, 2012
15
0
0
Bryan, Tx
Good morning Everyone,

I have a question I need answered. I just got a brand new M7040 with a 10' disc. I have never owned anything new, so my concern is there a "break-in" period necessary, or can I just start discing right away?:confused:
 

kuboman

Member
Dec 6, 2009
725
6
16
Canada
Good morning Everyone,

I have a question I need answered. I just got a brand new M7040 with a 10' disc. I have never owned anything new, so my concern is there a "break-in" period necessary, or can I just start discing right away?:confused:
After the first couple hours run it like normal just do not lug or let idle excessively.:)
 

richschram

New member

Equipment
M7040, Bale Spear, 12" PH digger, 10' disc and lots of other farm junk
Jan 12, 2012
15
0
0
Bryan, Tx
So I'm thinking I can sink my disc just a couple of inches to grind up the weeds and make another pass at full depth after I've got a few hours seat time. I've got about 60 acres I need to get started on before we quit getting rain here in Texas.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,558
3,309
113
SW Pa
It's simple there little buddy, just take it easy for the first 50, yes run it use it but don't get nutz,,, change all the oils,,,EVERYTHING,, warm the old girl up and,, don't get stupid or figure theres nothing you can't do,, just think about what you want to do and govern your self accordingly. I run mine hard but I dont abuse it,,well maybe a little ,,,, just think a head and enjoy
 

GWD

Member

Equipment
M7040, L48 TLB, BX2200
Jan 8, 2010
792
15
18
Northern California
So I'm thinking I can sink my disc just a couple of inches to grind up the weeds and make another pass at full depth after I've got a few hours seat time. I've got about 60 acres I need to get started on before we quit getting rain here in Texas.
Yes, there is a break-in period. 50 hours as the manual and the others have said. 50 hours is the magic number since that is when ALL fluids need to be changed out (despite the manual saying only filters need to be changed - go ahead and flame ;) )

Just remember what is happening inside your engine and transmission during this time. Wear is taking place as parts "marry", assembly debris is floating around in the bearings and on transmission plates, wear particles are "sandpapering" the insides, some parts are experiencing much more friction than others so creating heat, and probably much more.

Go ahead and disc, vary the RPMs to break everything in evenly, warm up the tractor well before use and don't run it at WOT for extended periods. But don't be gentle either.
 
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birddogger

New member
May 29, 2011
433
0
0
Pittsburgh
Keep a eye on the temperature, if it starts to rise lighten the load.
Overheating is always bad, overheating new is terribly bad.
 

TripleR

Active member

Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Sep 16, 2011
1,911
8
38
SE Missouri
Pretty much what everyone else has said, we went by the Operator Manual and broke our M8540 in running it pretty much like the one we traded off with the exception of occasional cool down periods and varying the throttle. Putting your engine under load is not, in my opinion, going to hurt it.
 

kuboman

Member
Dec 6, 2009
725
6
16
Canada
Just for interest sake I have watched many new/rebuilt engines being 'broke in' on a dyno at tractor dealerships. Their procedure is to run it at a high idle after a warmup for about an hour and then gradually increase the load. After about 3 hours the engine is at max load and rated rpm. They will run the load up and down a few times in that period. After that they send it home and tell you too 'run it'.
Breakin is not some scarry deal that if you deviate you wreck your engine. Run it and use common sense.:D
 

richschram

New member

Equipment
M7040, Bale Spear, 12" PH digger, 10' disc and lots of other farm junk
Jan 12, 2012
15
0
0
Bryan, Tx
Thanks Everyone,
We've always had "experienced" tractors in the past that always came with their share of leaks, drips, and "that's just how it has to work". I'm going to enjoy working my land now without getting chased off by bumblebees, hornets, snakes, goat weed pollen, dust or the other host of nasties Morther Nature likes to sling our way. I'll get some pics posted of my various projects through out the year....
 

GWD

Member

Equipment
M7040, L48 TLB, BX2200
Jan 8, 2010
792
15
18
Northern California
Thanks Everyone,
We've always had "experienced" tractors in the past that always came with their share of leaks, drips, and "that's just how it has to work". I'm going to enjoy working my land now without getting chased off by bumblebees, hornets, snakes, goat weed pollen, dust or the other host of nasties Morther Nature likes to sling our way. I'll get some pics posted of my various projects through out the year....
You must have a "C", or cab, model. My open station M7040 still has a tendency to stir up the "nasties". Snakes are not so much of a problem with the R1s. :D
 

E/S

Member

Equipment
2009 M8540HDC 4x4 w/ Cab
Jan 6, 2010
251
1
16
Reno, NV
So I'm thinking I can sink my disc just a couple of inches to grind up the weeds and make another pass at full depth after I've got a few hours seat time. I've got about 60 acres I need to get started on before we quit getting rain here in Texas.
That sounds like a good plan, just check regularly for leaks and watch your temperature.


E/S