One hydraulic coupler from my snowblower.....

PNWBXer

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BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
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Washington
will not latch. This isn't an over pressurization problem. When I push the female end onto the male end it goes all the way in (and can rotate back and forth).....but the female sleeve will not "pop" over the male end to complete the sex...I mean connection.

I was wondering if there is something on the female end I can lubricate to get the sleeve to move. It's been sitting in the garage for 9 months....but the other three couplers when right on. So IDK.
 

Dave_eng

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Remove the female coupler from its hose. Thoroughly clean under its locking ring with solvents and compressed air. Before reinstalling coupler make certain it can lock unto the male half.

You may have to replace it if it still wont lock.

Dave
 
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PNWBXer

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BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
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18
Washington
Remove the female coupler from its hose. Thoroughly clean under its locking ring with solvents and compressed air. Before reinstalling coupler make certain it can lock unto the male half.

You may have to replace it if it still wont lock.

Dave

Thanks i'll give it a try!
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
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Is this a flat-faced coupler or a pioneer coupler? The reason that I asked, is that I have had problems with both types when the weather changes and there is residual pressure in the lines of the snowblower or whatever appliance you are trying to attach. There was a thread on these forums a while back of a homemade device to relieve the pressure manually. I would just unscrew the coupling from the hose, and relieve the pressure that way. Then as I got older and smarter, I would use a hammer to tap on the end of the pioneer coupler to relieve the pressure. I just experienced it for the first time with the flat-faced coupler this week, and gave up and got a spare coupler and used that and a small hammer to get it into the other half to relieve the pressure. I really liked the flat-faced couplers prior to this week! Even moving the joystick around to relieve the pressure wasn't an option, since this was on the 3rd function valve.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
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Is this a flat-faced coupler or a pioneer coupler? The reason that I asked, is that I have had problems with both types when the weather changes and there is residual pressure in the lines of the snowblower or whatever appliance you are trying to attach. There was a thread on these forums a while back of a homemade device to relieve the pressure manually. I would just unscrew the coupling from the hose, and relieve the pressure that way. Then as I got older and smarter, I would use a hammer to tap on the end of the pioneer coupler to relieve the pressure. I just experienced it for the first time with the flat-faced coupler this week, and gave up and got a spare coupler and used that and a small hammer to get it into the other half to relieve the pressure. I really liked the flat-faced couplers prior to this week! Even moving the joystick around to relieve the pressure wasn't an option, since this was on the 3rd function valve.
I just turn on the power to the 3rd function with out the engine running and cycle the switches. That seems to work with my Summit valve to relieve the pressure. I do it putting the grapple on or before disconnecting.
But I don't have flat faced couplings.

Bill
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
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I tried that but it didn't work for some unknown reason. Possibly because the oil was cold? I just don't know.
 

PNWBXer

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BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
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18
Washington
Again guys....not a pressure issue. I removed the female Flat Faced Coupler (its a Novu HPFFN 1/4 NPT F)......and soaked it in degreaser (the purple stuff) for 3 days while I was out of town. Got back tonight as still no movement. Then used Penetrating oil for 45 mins.... again no joy. Then with with Tri flow lube.....again no joy.

Of note.....I can't actually get the thing apart to see inside........like someone locktited the threads of the two main pieces. I only know this because the two couplers from my BX2811 "K-Connect" hitch (what the blower mounts to/ what raises and lowers it) were easy to take apart by hand (which concerned me a first.....but they aren't leaking and have no problems). The two couplers from the actual snowblower (chute rotation) are impossible to loosen by hand and I'm afraid I'll damage the sleeve trying to pry it loose.

Kubota dealer and a local Hydraulic shop are out of 1/4 flat faced couplers....and its suppose to snow in 4 days. So was planning on taking the thing apart....when I discovered it's impossible to unscrew it or it's sister coupler. The sister coupler works fine on all male connectors.

I feel stuck....was going to wait till my neighbor got home to use his vice and a pipewrench to try and pry it loose....but again...I think I will damage it. Any thoughts? Can seem to find one on Amazon either.......not in 1/4 anyway and not something that will match up with the single point hyd. attachment for the loader.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
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A standard 1/4 snowplow coupling replacing both sides of that connections should get you going untill you can get a new flat faced one. You can find a set of them locally like at TSC or auto supply They are NPT like you stated your flat face are. A male and female set around here is less than $20 I think they are ISO 5675.

I think this is the one TSC carries but I have got them from ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/1827267958...aultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108


Bill
 
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PNWBXer

Member

Equipment
BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
13
18
Washington
A standard 1/4 snowplow coupling replacing both sides of that connections should get you going untill you can get a new flat faced one. You can find a set of them locally like at TSC or auto supply They are NPT like you stated your flat face are. A male and female set around here is less than $20 I think they are ISO 5675.

I think this is the one TSC carries but I have got them from ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/182726795812?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20200818142055&meid=d701ffebbbbf458488aaf06726e51e1b&pid=101113&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=263899933541&itm=182726795812&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2563228&algv=DefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108


Bill

So ...on the BX with the quick attach bracket for the loader.....on the tractor end....can you just put a socket on the male Hydraulic connector and screw it off?

I just ordered the part from Kubota (#77700-07782)...and the next day shipping was more than the $50 part....oooof. pay to play on the short term...lol.
 

PNWBXer

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Equipment
BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
13
18
Washington
So i'm kind of a Hydraulic noob. I've never so much as detached a Hydraulic line before. Only thing I've done is make sure the both dip sticks are full (BX2380).....

Since I took the coupler off and will need to put on back on.......

A. Do I need to put thread tape on?....and what kind? What's on there seems like regular white thread tape.

B. Do I need to worry about air in the lines......aka do I need bleed the system some how (like my Mountain Bike Hydraulic brakes)? Some fluid leaked out of the line last night ....so Ill at least have to top off the tank i'm assuming.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
606
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central ny
So ...on the BX with the quick attach bracket for the loader.....on the tractor end....can you just put a socket on the male Hydraulic connector and screw it off?

I just ordered the part from Kubota (#77700-07782)...and the next day shipping was more than the $50 part....oooof. pay to play on the short term...lol.
Sorry I didn't catch you were working with a single point loader issue. I thought it was just a single coupling on one of several hoses you were working with that was giving you trouble
 

PNWBXer

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Equipment
BX2380
Feb 24, 2020
134
13
18
Washington
Sorry I didn't catch you were working with a single point loader issue. I thought it was just a single coupling on one of several hoses you were working with that was giving you trouble

So the tractor side of the loader bracket has 4 male hydraulic connectors which match up to the bracket on the loader. But you use regular female flat faced couplers from your Snow blower and Blower mount (4 hoses) to attach to those 4 male connectors. It's seemless......unless one of the couplers fail. lol
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
606
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central ny
So the tractor side of the loader bracket has 4 male hydraulic connectors which match up to the bracket on the loader. But you use regular female flat faced couplers from your Snow blower and Blower mount (4 hoses) to attach to those 4 male connectors. It's seemless......unless one of the couplers fail. lol
Well I hope what you got coming overnight helps you out!
Thanks for clarifying.
Bill
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
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I have noticed that the couplers from the factory have a single wrap of Teflon tape around the threads. Personally, I don't like Teflon tape for new pipe threads, because the threads will cut and shred the Teflon tape, and it is disastrous to the hydraulic system. I use a thin coating of pipe dope on all fittings that I assemble. NPT threads are a tapered thread, and as you screw it in it keeps getting tighter. This is important to know because you only should thread it in until you have resistance, and then add 1/2 to 1 additional turn. If you use Teflon tape, it is extremely slippery and you might not get the "feedback" of how tight it actually is. I remember when it first came out plumbers were used to installing boiler fittings by feels, and experience told them when a part or pipe was tight enough. Because Teflon tape removed that "feel" of the tightness, the cracked quite a few boilers.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
606
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central ny
I have noticed that the couplers from the factory have a single wrap of Teflon tape around the threads. Personally, I don't like Teflon tape for new pipe threads, because the threads will cut and shred the Teflon tape, and it is disastrous to the hydraulic system. I use a thin coating of pipe dope on all fittings that I assemble. NPT threads are a tapered thread, and as you screw it in it keeps getting tighter. This is important to know because you only should thread it in until you have resistance, and then add 1/2 to 1 additional turn. If you use Teflon tape, it is extremely slippery and you might not get the "feedback" of how tight it actually is. I remember when it first came out plumbers were used to installing boiler fittings by feels, and experience told them when a part or pipe was tight enough. Because Teflon tape removed that "feel" of the tightness, the cracked quite a few boilers.
I agree as I use a good grade pipe dope, the brand name escapes me at the moment. I find the npt hose and connectors I used on the hydraulic system I added to my 8N over 5 years ago have no leaks at any of the connections yet. When I have changed a coupling etc, I don't have to mess with the shredded Teflon in an effort to remove it so it doesn't get into the system a plus. Just my opinion but in my prior work we had a lot of stainless fittings. Using tape on them we found that we over tightened and if disassembled often the threads would be damaged. I am thinking now one of the dopes was made by Hercules.
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,237
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North East CT
The problem with Stainless Steel is that when you have 2 stainless steel items and thread them together, the threads will gall when you disassemble. Now, if you are using 2 dissimilar metals, this will not happen. Years ago when I was involved with a truck equipment business, we built a tank truck that was piped with all stainless steel, and when anything had to be disassembled for service many of the fittings needed to be replaced as a result of galling. The company that owned the truck knew about this when the truck was built, but it was for hauling a chemical that required stainless steel because of its chemical properties.
 

Chanceywd

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Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N
Mar 26, 2021
606
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central ny
Yes the galling is what it was. I had to build some stainless mixing vats with stainless fittings and piping. used a lot of swageloc fittings and tubing so it could be disassembled without galling threads but if a fellow worker over torqued the swageloc you would have the same problem. One of those guys that had to horse everything to show how tough he was, napoleon complex maybe?
 
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