Loosening lock nut on steering tie rod

[GlennieGlade]

Hi folks,

I am trying to replace a torn dust cover (boot) on my front steering tie rod ball joint.

But the tie rod lock nut is super tight and I can't get it loose. At this point I've doused it in WD40 and am waiting overnight. Next should I try some hammer taps, pipe over the wrench handle for more leverage, or a better penetrating oil?

I am pretty brand new to tractors I wanted to check I'm not missing anything obvious, or if there's a better way to do this job.

It looks like a standard anticlockwise thread so I am raising the wrench upward to loosen it. Hope that is correct.

Thanks for any much appreciated info.

 

[85Hokie]

WD40 is better than nothing - but not a lot better.

The best is a home brew of acetone and ATF ..... but you dont have time to mess with that.

Get you some PB blaster or Kroil or anything that will cut into the joints of the threads.

In this case - you might need BFH and smack that nut a bit to vibrate that loose.

 

[Chanceywd]

Sometimes I use the method of holding another heavier hammer on the opposite side of the nut, then hit sharply on the facing side. Like what you do to loosen the taper on a tie rod or ball joint.

In a tight area I have used a steel wood splitting wedge as the back up instead of another hammer. I try to get it so it keeps the piece I am hitting from deflecting.

 

[Motion]

I'd suggest counting the threads prior to removal to aid re-alignment, thoroughly wire brushing the threads and as 85Hokie said use a good penetrant, and couple of taps on the nut. Use a pipe or chain wrench on the tie rod end and the correct size wrench on the nut. When reinstalling use anti-seize on the threads. As always do as you feel is best.

 

[Tx Jim]

If hitting nut with a hammer while holding another hammer on opposite side of nut doesn't jar nut loose then next thing I'd suggest is acetylene torch to heat the nut.

 

[GlennieGlade]

Thanks very much everyone for your informative replies.

In the end my neighbour came over and solve the issue with another technique... Bigger muscles. He's about 6'9 grown up on cattle farms and just yanked the wrench.

Will keep all in this in mind in the future if needed!

Cheers

 

[Lil Foot]

Sometimes there is just no substitute for cubic inches.

 

[GeoHorn]

It looks to me that you’re tightening it…not loosening it. but to be certain…take a small gauge wire… put it inside a thread…and run it around the circumference to see which way it moves….away from the base or towards it.

HEAT is your next friend. Lightly warm it with a propane torch and then try a wrench on it. A tubing wrench will grab the nut better if you have one that size.

Lastly….. a piece of old inner-tube…wrapped twice around the tie-rod-end…and secured on both sides with safety-wire or small hose-clamp…. will suffice for a good dust-cover without having to disassemble the tie-rod-end at all.

Hope this helps.

 

[whitetiger]

Use a pipe or chain wrench on the tie rod end

Or the correct open-end wrench on the flats, which works very well.

 

[mikester]

Sometimes a big adjustable wrench with a wide jaw works better than a narrow jaw box end wrench. Keep it snug on the nut. Use an extension bar if required. Say no to vice grips or other toothed tools.