B2601 Coolant temperature gauge reading?

[VaGlock]

Was running my 2601 yesterday letting it warm up for about 5 minutes before moving some buckets of firewood up to the house, it was 40 degrees and I only shut tractor off when unloading the wood. This took about 60 minutes and I noticed the temperature gauge was barely off the cold mark. During the summer the gauge would always move to the center of the gauge. My question is how long does it take for these tractors to warm up to normal operating temperature during mildly cold outdoor temps? I realize that I was not working the tractor hard or the upper RPM range. My concern is also not getting engine oil hot enough to burn off any condensation. I do not use the tractor for snow removal so it does not see much extended running time in cold weather. This is my second winter owning the tractor.

 

[85Hokie]

Glock,

sometimes a diesel that is in "cool" weather will take bit to get warmed up. Next time you run the machine - grab a piece of cardboard and place it over the fresh air intake and see if it warms up faster. Watch the temp gauge - You do not want to block it off completely!

Many diesel owners "block" off the fresh air in cold- allowing the engine to get and stay hot during the colder working conditions. I am sure you see school buses and 18 wheelers in the cold with the front grill covered almost completely up?

As you mentioned - you do want it to get to operating temps - next time increase from idle and see if that makes a difference.

 

[bird dogger]

Even my B2650 is very cold blooded, especially in the winter months up here in ND. I made a set of winter front covers for it and solved that problem. You can see what I came up with here

There's now covers available for a few different kubota models. The covers I make to fit the B2601 can be seen here: B3601 Winter Front Covers

Since you're in VA, maybe all you'd need is the front cover?

I had exactly the same thoughts as you the first winter i had my B2650. I couldn't get the temp gauge off the bottom, or maybe 1 segment if the tractor was worked hard. The covers fixed that and helped out in other ways to boot.

Ask away if you have any questions.
David

 

[VaGlock]

I normally let it warm up at idle for a few minutes and when doing light work keep rpms 1500 - 2000 rpms. When cooler weather sets in I let it idle instead of shutting it off when I am off the tractor. I will try the blocking of air in slow increments to see if I can find the proper amount.

 

[VaGlock]

Even my B2650 is very cold blooded, especially in the winter months up here in ND. I made a set of winter front covers for it and solved that problem. You can see what I came up with here

There's now covers available for a few different kubota models. The covers I make to fit the B2601 can be seen here: B3601 Winter Front Covers

Since you're in VA, maybe all you'd need is the front cover?

I had exactly the same thoughts as you the first winter i had my B2650. I couldn't get the temp gauge off the bottom, or maybe 1 segment if the tractor was worked hard. The covers fixed that and helped out in other ways to boot.

Ask away if you have any questions.
David

Those are some nice looking covers, will keep them in mind.

 

[lynnmor]

Unlike a gasoline engine, a diesel has no throttle plate so it takes a full gulp of cold air every intake stroke which cools the engine. Increasing the idle speed may help somewhat since there is more fuel being burnt but of course there is more cold air as well.

 

[RalphVa]

Kubota's extreme recommendations to warm up the engine by letting it idle is utterly stupid.

In 39 years of driving diesel cars and now 17 years diesel tractors, I've always started them and took right off, no matter how cold. Just drive gently for maybe 2 or 3 to 5 minutes. Just GO. Will warm up much faster than sitting idling and wasting fuel. The Isuzu diesel generator has to start and start working right away.

 

[JerryMT]

Was running my 2601 yesterday letting it warm up for about 5 minutes before moving some buckets of firewood up to the house, it was 40 degrees and I only shut tractor off when unloading the wood. This took about 60 minutes and I noticed the temperature gauge was barely off the cold mark. During the summer the gauge would always move to the center of the gauge. My question is how long does it take for these tractors to warm up to normal operating temperature during mildly cold outdoor temps? I realize that I was not working the tractor hard or the upper RPM range. My concern is also not getting engine oil hot enough to burn off any condensation. I do not use the tractor for snow removal so it does not see much extended running time in cold weather. This is my second winter owning the tractor.

A diesel is different from a spark ignition (SI) engine in terms of the peak cylinder temperatures while operating. The SI engine runs at nearly constant peak temperature throughout its operating range whereas a diesel has variable peak temperature throughout its operating range. The higher the power output the higher the peak temperature. The peak temperature is moderated by cold ambient temperatures.
So to get it to warm up quicker, put it under some load. Or, as one of the other posters said, you can get the diesel to warm up quicker by blocking off the cooling air flow through the radiator with a piece of cardboard. My F350 7.3 L diesel uses a variable restriction at the exit of the exhaust manifold to reduce airflow and make the fuel/air ratio higher during warm up. The higher the fuel/air ratio the higher the peak temperature. Since SI engines run within a relatively narrow range of fuel/air ratio they naturally warm up quicker.

 

[07wingnut]

Not sure how your tractor is set up for cooling, but on the BX23 there is a pullout screen next to the radiator. Every winter I add this to the screen, and it keeps the engine temp at a much better level.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: Kubota's extreme recommendations to warm up the engine by letting it idle is utterly stupid.

I've always run at a 'fast idle' for a few minutes, About 2000 RPM. ANY vehicle with an automatic tranny needs to be warmed up a bit before moving. Same holds true for ANY hydraulic systems.When it gets to -20*C NOTHING wants to move....

Looks like I have new 'project'... GOTTA make a holey screen !! GREAT idea 07,simple AND easy to install !!!

 

[PM7788]

I was in a similar situation a few days ago, I have an LX3310 which has a DPF so I need to be even more aware of low RPMs.

Temp was around 35-40F and I was moving wood, pushing large piles of leaves, and just some other light work.

Warmed up at idle for 1-2min max, then another few minutes at around 1800. Ran it around 2000-2100 when cruising around or pushing/lifting and then would bring the RPMs back down to a "high idle" 1700-1800 when I was off loading wood or doing something (a few minutes max)

My thought was that I wanted to keep the engine hot and reduce the number of cold starts and stops. Seemed to work well and the tractor was running great. Temp gauge was at 3 bars (i think out of 6 total?)

Would love to hear thoughts on this

*LX3310 is rated at 2500rpm

 

[VaGlock]

I understand that diesels naturally run cooler and requires a longer run time to reach normal operating temp to burn off any moisture / condensation from oil and internal parts when being operated in colder outdoor temps. This is true for gasoline engines also but does not require as much run time to reach normal temps (as previously stated).
I was just surprised that after 30-45 minute chore the thermostat had not even reached opening temp range. This is the first diesel I have owned, so I am still going through the learning curve. So am I just being over concerned or do a lot of people do cold temp short tractor chores without lasting issues or concerns?