won't shut down then won't start
- Thread starter JPSR
- Start date
i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
Once when I was using my BX as a powered wheel barrow (start, move, shutdown). I ran the battery down, had to manually move fuel solenoid to kill engine, then didn't have the power to restart it.
How old is battery? Running it long enough to recharge battery?
How old is battery? Running it long enough to recharge battery?
Some BX tractors require battery voltage to keep running, and some require battery voltage to shut down in the normal fashion.
You indicate that the tractor will not shut down normally, and then will not start normally.
Suggest you eliminate the battery as the culprit. Simply jumping the battery might be enough. If when you jump it, it starts, and does not shut down normally, then chances are extremely high you have a bad battery.
This is speculation to some degree, since I have no detailed knowledge of your specific tractor. BUT probably a pretty good educated guess.
sounds like it has the shutoff solenoid on top of the engine. If it were on the side, and there is a problem, they usually won't ever start to begin with.
On those (yours, solenoid on top), with the engine off, raise the hood then turn the key on. Watch the shutoff solenoid. Now turn the key off while watching the solenoid. It should retract, which moves the fuel lever to "off". In 10-15 seconds it should then relax the solenoid.
I've seen some solenoids stick in the past and they'll cause exactly what you are describing, to the "tee". This is why I mentioned this.
....and this also assumes that the battery is hot enough to start the engine. A dead battery (jumped) won't work the solenoid very well, if at all, and something else I've seen is people trying to jump the battery off the truck or car or whatever, and expect the alternator to recharge the battery. In a lot of cases it won't. The alternator requires voltage to energize it, if that voltage isn't there it will initially charge but as soon as you take the jumper device (cables, box, etc) off, it will then quit charging. if the battery is dead, replace it.
On those (yours, solenoid on top), with the engine off, raise the hood then turn the key on. Watch the shutoff solenoid. Now turn the key off while watching the solenoid. It should retract, which moves the fuel lever to "off". In 10-15 seconds it should then relax the solenoid.
I've seen some solenoids stick in the past and they'll cause exactly what you are describing, to the "tee". This is why I mentioned this.
....and this also assumes that the battery is hot enough to start the engine. A dead battery (jumped) won't work the solenoid very well, if at all, and something else I've seen is people trying to jump the battery off the truck or car or whatever, and expect the alternator to recharge the battery. In a lot of cases it won't. The alternator requires voltage to energize it, if that voltage isn't there it will initially charge but as soon as you take the jumper device (cables, box, etc) off, it will then quit charging. if the battery is dead, replace it.
OK. So did I miss something? I thought you said the starter would not turn the engine over. AND that when running the engine would no shut off.
How did you determine the battery is good?
IF the starter will not activate when the battery is good, this generally indicated there is an issue with the safety permissive circuit. BUT this circuit generally has nothing to do with shutting the engine off.
Something is not adding up in what you reported so far...please clarify.
Edit: I certainly defer to Lugbolts assessment. Just trying to add to my understanding of the situation...
Tractor started at job site no problems , finished job drove it 3 miles to home it would not shut down with ignition switch off. starved the air to shut down . was told has bad stop solenoid ,removed it from tractor and used battery to see if it actuated and it did also did the same with starter had charger on battery it is full charged and reads 13 volts
Thinking about it, if your tractor requires the solenoid to activate to turn the tractor off, and if it were stuck, so it could not move to turn the tractor off, then obviously, the solenoid would be at fault...
The goal here is to solve your problem.
You said the tractor would not shut down, and then would not start.
Does the NOT START mean the engine did not turn over, or that it would not start even with the engine being turned over by the starter?
If that were the case, then the battery and safety interlock circuits would likely be fine.
So things would point to the fuel cut off solenoid as being the issue.
Please clarify so the issue is better defined.
You said the tractor would not shut down, and then would not start.
Does the NOT START mean the engine did not turn over, or that it would not start even with the engine being turned over by the starter?
If that were the case, then the battery and safety interlock circuits would likely be fine.
So things would point to the fuel cut off solenoid as being the issue.
Please clarify so the issue is better defined.
I think you best list again what the EXACT symptoms are. You indicate in this post that the starter will not turn over. IF so, that indicates a safety interlock issue.
Shutting down after running is an issue separate from any starting issue (I think).
You may be dealing with two separate issues...
I think it would be helpful if you list EXACTLY what you are experiencing.
Granted you may already have done this, but I missed it if you specifically did so...
if your stop solenoid is mounted on the block, and it won't shut off, something is causing voltage to be fed to the solenoid all the time. This style system works backwards of the head-mounted solenoid in that this style requires 12V to keep the engine running.
Dig up your wiring diagram which is in your workshop manual, and start studying.
Dig up your wiring diagram which is in your workshop manual, and start studying.
I had another brand of tractor that when the fuseable link blew it would do what you describe. My fuseable link looked like this.
Fuseable Link
Fuseable Link
but does that other brand of tractor use the same type system??? Possibly apples to oranges.....
it wasn't an uncommon deal on the older BX's, GR's, G series, Grand L series, and RTV series with the top mounted shut off solenoid, they worked backwards of the side mounted. The top mount systems applied 12v to shut the engine off; side mount needs 12v to stay running.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Here is a pdf of your wiring and checking the shut-off solenoid for a BX23D. If you have the later BX23S, it is considerably different.
Troubleshooting 101 , work from the easiest possible solution to the hardest. Fuesable link blown or intact is really easy to check and replace if needed. Just trying to help the guy out.
agreed but I don't think it's a good idea to add in other brands/models/types when trying to help someone along. Leads to confusion.
BTW there ain't no fusible link. At least I don't remember seeing one on any of the BX23's that I seen. Slow-blow's and ATO's as I recall.
the easiest possible solution is to replace parts one by one until the problem's fixed. Unfortunately this is also usually the most expensive and time consuming solution, one that I prefer not to use. Thus, we try to work through it.
BTW there ain't no fusible link. At least I don't remember seeing one on any of the BX23's that I seen. Slow-blow's and ATO's as I recall.
the easiest possible solution is to replace parts one by one until the problem's fixed. Unfortunately this is also usually the most expensive and time consuming solution, one that I prefer not to use. Thus, we try to work through it.