Removing the Backhoe from a BX23S

[DustyRusty]

Today was the first time that I attempted to remove the backhoe from my BX23S, and the procedure is very similar to my old BX22, except that you pull the handles out and rotate them to go into the upper holes to release the top parts of the backhoe mounting pins. Problem is that it appears that rust has formed on the shaft of the levers that you pull out. I fought with it for over an hour for each side, using penetrating oil and tapping with a rubber-faced dead blow hammer to try to loosen them. I finally got them to turn but had a difficult time getting them into the upper holes. Is it because my tractor is about a year old, and the hoe has never been removed? Once I got them to move, I practiced removing the hoe a few times, and it didn't get any easier to pull and rotate the pins. They are just plain stiff. Any suggestions on what to do to make this job easier? I watched the Messicks video and on the new tractor, the lever (seen at 40 seconds in the video) is easy to pull out, but not on mine.

 

[fried1765]

Today was the first time that I attempted to remove the backhoe from my BX23S, and the procedure is very similar to my old BX22, except that you pull the handles out and rotate them to go into the upper holes to release the top parts of the backhoe mounting pins. Problem is that it appears that rust has formed on the shaft of the levers that you pull out. I fought with it for over an hour for each side, using penetrating oil and tapping with a rubber-faced dead blow hammer to try to loosen them. I finally got them to turn but had a difficult time getting them into the upper holes. Is it because my tractor is about a year old, and the hoe has never been removed? Once I got them to move, I practiced removing the hoe a few times, and it didn't get any easier to pull and rotate the pins. They are just plain stiff. Any suggestions on what to do to make this job easier? I watched the Messicks video and on the new tractor, the lever (seen at 40 seconds in the video) is easy to pull out, but not on mine.

Anti-Seize!

 

[DustyRusty]

Anti-Seize!

Good thought, however, anti-seize is for static parts that are only disassembled occasionally, not for a moving part like this. I have various grades of anti-seize that I use in the shop, such as nickel, copper, stainless, etc. I believe in using the correct product for the application. In this case, I believe that a grease fitting would be appropriate, but it would be difficult to install without disassembly of the hoe, and I am not even certain if it were even possible to grease without removal of the hoe. If I can get it freed up, I will try some red grease. It appears that the tolerances are very tight and possibly tighter than they have to be. Hopefully, by tomorrow the penetrating oil will have loosened everything up.

 

[leveraddict]

My 2017 BX23S back hoe sits outside all summer but indoors all winter. My back hoe release levers have never rusted and still release easily. I can't understand why yours are so rusted? Mine are just levers that open a set of jaws that release the back hoe. Not sure I understand your having to pull the handles out and rotate them to go into the (upper holes)? Maybe something has changed with the newer models? While turning the handles do you have the back hoe pushing down to raise the rear wheels slightly off of the ground? This makes it easier to release.

 

[fried1765]

Good thought, however, anti-seize is for static parts that are only disassembled occasionally, not for a moving part like this. I have various grades of anti-seize that I use in the shop, such as nickel, copper, stainless, etc. I believe in using the correct product for the application. In this case, I believe that a grease fitting would be appropriate, but it would be difficult to install without disassembly of the hoe, and I am not even certain if it were even possible to grease without removal of the hoe. If I can get it freed up, I will try some red grease. It appears that the tolerances are very tight and possibly tighter than they have to be. Hopefully, by tomorrow the penetrating oil will have loosened everything up.

The pins are constantly moving parts?
I thought they were manually actuated parts, being moved only during disconnect and reconnect.

I would think "red grease" might be too viscous.
Perhaps Lithium grease would be a better choice.

LPS-3 spray could be an easy option.

 

[DustyRusty]

My 2017 BX23S back hoe sits outside all summer but indoors all winter. My back hoe release levers have never rusted and still release easily. I can't understand why yours are so rusted? Mine are just levers that open a set of jaws that release the back hoe. Not sure I understand your having to pull the handles out and rotate them to go into the (upper holes)? Maybe something has changed with the newer models? While turning the handles do you have the back hoe pushing down to raise the rear wheels slightly off of the ground? This makes it easier to release.

Watch the video and at 42 seconds in the video, Neil specifically refers to sticking pins on the old tractors, and the improvement of the lever that you pull out, and twist to release the upper jaws. On my tractor, the pin that is associated with the lever was rusted into the hole that secures the jaws. If you don't watch the beginning of the video, then you will not understand the problem.

 

[Crash277]

Spray them with a white lithium grease. i take mine off and put it back on tons of times. Rvery once in a while i clean the area up and then spray it. It will sit outside on some wood under a tarp all winter (second with with it) i didnt have any issues last spring.

 

[leveraddict]

Watch the video and at 42 seconds in the video, Neil specifically refers to sticking pins on the old tractors, and the improvement of the lever that you pull out, and twist to release the upper jaws. On my tractor, the pin that is associated with the lever was rusted into the hole that secures the jaws. If you don't watch the beginning of the video, then you will not understand the problem.

I understand what your saying now. I wonder if Kubota changed the lever material? Things are hard to get even for Kubota im sure! I guess you will have to shoot it with your lube of choice every now and then. I squirt a little WD 40 on that every now and then.

 

[Henro]

My first thought is if after you cleaned the rust off the pins and the holes, and then still had the problem, that the pins must be binding due to misalignment between the device holding the pins and the axis of the hole the pin slides into.

If this is the case, doubtful that lubricant will be the answer, although it cannot hurt.

You may want to enlarge the hole the pin goes into slightly, or remove a little of whatever may be on the surface of the pin, if it is something like thick paint.

At the end of the day, you want the pin to be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole, and the axes of the pin and the hole to be in alignment. Otherwise there will be binding and difficulty removing the pin.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

so, the BH DOES come off a BX23S ?? Mine's been on for 3 years, since new...never really needed it off, even though I have the 3PH kit here, somewhere ,in the box.....
I use the red lidded 'RustCheck' as a lube as it flows freely but stays on. The grn lid version is thicker.
It's probably a good idea to 'clean,lube, exercise' those pins every 2-3 months ??

 

[Kubota13]

I too had difficulty removing my back hoe pins on my 23S. It is just a few months old. No rust, just very difficult. My concern with using lube or grease, is that it will attract dirt.
When my tractor goes back to the dealer for the first big service, I was going to talk to them about this as all the videos I've watched show the pins moving in and out EZPZ