How to add rear rear remotes to a B3300SU

[the_Bearded_Ginger]

Hello Ya'll

I am a newbie to this forum. I have a Kubota B3300SU with a loader. I do not have a PB (Power Beyond) but I would like to add rear remotes does anyone know how to hook up the rear remotes I would like to just run to TSC or the local hydraulic shop my Kubota Dealer SUCKS.

 

[Dave_eng]

Hello Ya'll

I am a newbie to this forum. I have a Kubota B3300SU with a loader. I do not have a PB (Power Beyond) but I would like to add rear remotes does anyone know how to hook up the rear remotes I would like to just run to TSC or the local hydraulic shop my Kubota Dealer SUCKS.

You more than likely have power beyond in your loader valve.

What makes you state it is not present?

How many lines connect to your loader valve? 6 or 7.

7 and you have power beyond.

These projects are more complicated than they appear. Further, from lack of knowledge you stand a chance of dead heading the main pump and destroying it.

While you are not happy with your dealer, often the best instructions for 3rd function valves and rear remotes are in the loader installation manual.

In simple terms, if your loader valve has power beyond feeding the 3 pt hitch, you need to break that PB circuit with another valve, also with power beyond. This new valve or valves will control the remotes and also through its PB maintain hydraulic feed to the 3 pt hitch.

Dave

 

[TheOldHokie]

You have a little work to do. Here is the hydraulic line routing on your tractor. Pipe number 80 is the power beyond going from the loader valve to the 3pt. The PB connections to the valve and lift cover are both banjo bolts - probably metric. You will need to replace that pipe with a loop out from the loader valve to the IN port on your add on valve and from the power beyond on your add on valve back to the lift cover. You will also need a new tank return from the add on valve to the sump in the tractor. I can think of a few ways of doing that. The easiest way to deal withthe power beyond loop would be to ditch the pipe and buy two metric banjo to JIC adapters of the appropriate size(s) for the ports on the tractor.

Use the old banjo bolts and the adapters to run hoses out from the loader valve to your valve and from there back to the lift cover.

Dan

 

[the_Bearded_Ginger]

You more than likely have power beyond in your loader valve.

What makes you state it is not present?

How many lines connect to your loader valve? 6 or 7.

7 and you have power beyond.

These projects are more complicated than they appear. Further, from lack of knowledge you stand a chance of dead heading the main pump and destroying it.

While you are not happy with your dealer, often the best instructions for 3rd function valves and rear remotes are in the loader installation manual.

In simple terms, if your loader valve has power beyond feeding the 3 pt hitch, you need to break that PB circuit with another valve, also with power beyond. This new valve or valves will control the remotes and also through its PB maintain hydraulic feed to the 3 pt hitch.

Dave

Sorry for the late reply.

Attached is the picture of the block looks like 6 lines. Soo it looks like the PB is the 6 o'clock position?

 

[the_Bearded_Ginger]

You have a little work to do. Here is the hydraulic line routing on your tractor. Pipe number 80 is the power beyond going from the loader valve to the 3pt. The PB connections to the valve and lift cover are both banjo bolts - probably metric. You will need to replace that pipe with a loop out from the loader valve to the IN port on your add on valve and from the power beyond on your add on valve back to the lift cover. You will also need a new tank return from the add on valve to the sump in the tractor. I can think of a few ways of doing that. The easiest way to deal withthe power beyond loop would be to ditch the pipe and buy two metric banjo to JIC adapters of the appropriate size(s) for the ports on the tractor.

View attachment 69169

Use the old banjo bolts and the adapters to run hoses out from the loader valve to your valve and from there back to the lift cover.

Dan

View attachment 69168

Sorry for late response,

what about a double banjo bolt on top of the existing line 080?(See Image)

and a double banjo bolt dumping back into the sump?

would this be a possibility?

OR

Should it be placed inline of the routing of the line 080?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Sorry for the late reply.

Attached is the picture of the block looks like 6 lines. Soo it looks like the PB is the 6 o'clock position?

Sorry for the late reply.

Attached is the picture of the block looks like 6 lines. Soo it looks like the PB is the 6 o'clock position?

The "block is your valve. Here is your picture with the ports labeled. I can only be about 99.9% sure of the ID.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

Sorry for late response,

what about a double banjo bolt on top of the existing line 080?(See Image)

and a double banjo bolt dumping back into the sump?

would this be a possibility? View attachment 69268

Nope - OK for a tank return but for the PB that would be a parallel connection and you need to have everything in series.

 

[the_Bearded_Ginger]

Nope - OK for a tank return but for the PB that would be a parallel connection and you need to have everything in series.

I found this from the landpride website for installing a 3rd function kits I believe it says the same thing you are saying. just to confirm

(Yellow) discard Line 080

(Green) Connect the PB to the Inlet

(Orange) Connect outlet to end of line 080

the above diagram is my interoperation

(green) inlet

(Blue) outlet

Am I understanding this correctly?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I found this from the landpride website for installing a 3rd function kits I believe it says the same thing you are saying. just to confirm

View attachment 69275

View attachment 69276

(Yellow) discard Line 080

(Green) Connect the PB to the Inlet

(Orange) Connect outlet to end of line 080



View attachment 69277
the above diagram is my interoperation

(green) inlet

(Blue) outlet

Am I understanding this correctly?

Yes. Keep in mind the 3rd function valve is "special" and only has two ports. If you are using a commodity valve for your remotes it should have 3 ports - IN, Power Beyond, and tank. The IN and Power Beyond are connected just like the third function valve in your diagram. The tank port has to go to the sump on the tractor.

Dan

 

[Henro]

I would add that although basic hydraulics is simple once you understand what is going on, it is still often confusing if you do not deal with it every day. You CAN make what you want happen with a little effort and helpful advice.

Years ago I installed four rear remotes on my B2910 myself, buying the valve sections, assembling the valve and so on. Guess it still amazes me I got it right, probably because I forgot what I learned back then.

One advantage I did have was that the B2910 had a provision for adding to the hydraulic loop. A small block could be removed and replace by a different Kubota part, that had a supply and return fitting. So additional valve(S) could be inserted in the circuit easily. It was still necessary to figure out a return to tank connection point.

It is unfortunate your B3300 does not have an easy way to hook into the hydraulic loop.

Still, with the knowledgeable people here at OTT giving you help, you should be able to make it happen. Not sure you will find everything you need at TSC though. In my case I bought a lot of what was needed on line. Might be different today though...

 

[TheOldHokie]

I would add that although basic hydraulics is simple once you understand what is going on, it is still often confusing if you do not deal with it every day. You CAN make what you want happen with a little effort and helpful advice.

Years ago I installed four rear remotes on my B2910 myself, buying the valve sections, assembling the valve and so on. Guess it still amazes me I got it right, probably because I forgot what I learned back then.

One advantage I did have was that the B2910 had a provision for adding to the hydraulic loop. A small block could be removed and replace by a different Kubota part, that had a supply and return fitting. So additional valve(S) could be inserted in the circuit easily. It was still necessary to figure out a return to tank connection point.

It is unfortunate your B3300 does not have an easy way to hook into the hydraulic loop.

Still, with the knowledgeable people here at OTT giving you help, you should be able to make it happen. Not sure you will find everything you need at TSC though. In my case I bought a lot of what was needed on line. Might be different today though...

What's so hard about removing the pipe that has been identified in the parts drawing and connecting a couple hoses to the ports?

Dan

 

[Henro]

What's so hard about removing the pipe that has been identified in the parts drawing and connecting a couple hoses to the ports?

Dan

Not hard for you maybe, and not hard for me maybe, but since the OP posted the question, might be a bit harder for him...

Frankly, I am a bit turned off by your last post. You usually seem quite helpful.

Something wrong with trying to give the OP some encouragement, and stating that he CAN make what he wants happen?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Not hard for you maybe, and not hard for me maybe, but since the OP posted the question, might be a bit harder for him...

Frankly, I am a bit turned off by your last post. You usually seem quite helpful.

Something wrong with trying to give the OP some encouragement, and stating that he CAN make what he wants happen?

Genuinely sorry if you took offense Henro. I felt your post was the one suggesting something about this was "hard".

Go back and read the thread - I have given him plenty of encouragement and help. All he needs to do is take those two bolts out, measure them, and post the sizes. If he does that I will tell him what he needs to buy to make the connections and if need be point him to a source for the fittings and the valve(s) he wants to add. You are r100% right - he won't get any of that at TSC or anyplace similar but its inexpensive and easy to order online.

Dan

 

[Henro]

Genuinely sorry if you took offense Henro. I felt your post was the one suggesting something about this was "hard".

Go back and read the thread - I have given him plenty of encouragement and help. All he needs to do is take those two bolts out, measure them, and post the sizes. If he does that I will tell him what he needs to buy to make the connections and if need be point him to a source for the fittings and the valve(s) he wants to add. You are r100% right - he won't get any of that at TSC or anyplace similar but its inexpensive and easy to order online.

Dan

I understand. The written word is not always the best way to convey thoughts.

I agree, it is on the OP to check and report back as needed for more help.

My thoughts were that perhaps the OP needed a little encouragement. Sometimes people are less technical than others...and do not see things as easily as us technical guys...which I would like to think I am one of to some small degree...

 

[the_Bearded_Ginger]

I understand. The written word is not always the best way to convey thoughts.

I agree, it is on the OP to check and report back as needed for more help.

My thoughts were that perhaps the OP needed a little encouragement. Sometimes people are less technical than others...and do not see things as easily as us technical guys...which I would like to think I am one of to some small degree...

OK so, I have gathered a few things from TSC that fit where the Banjo's go.

I appreciate all the help, By end of week I should have everything working. at least thats the plan.

I'll provide a parts list and Pictures aswell.

heres is the tractor. I built the driveway with it.

Here is another project I'm building a small dirt pan scraper. (I'll make a thread about it later if ya'll are interested)