throw the plastigage in the trash where it belongs.
You will ideally need a dial bore gauge and a micrometer to properly measure. Measure for taper and egg on the journals. With the proper measuring devices, your issue then becomes a no-brainer.
The few times I tried plastigage, it was inconsistent. Once it cost me a motor, thankfully it was my own motor and I have nobody to blame buy myself for not using the correct tools. I had the tools too but decided to use the other stuff.
I have used it on many builds. I have found that it is best to buy a new package often. You use so little of the material, so much of it goes to waste especially at the end. You can tell when the green goes bad it turns dark. Many parts stores have old stock too, so watch out. I generally only use it to do the final assembled check. It does give a good visual of taper/clearance.
I dare say most jobbers do not have the proper tools to do the job right. Bore gauges, calipers, and micrometers are not cheap. I guess the real question here is if the crank is out of the block or is this an in frame job. Out of frame its a cheap grind for undersized bearings, so risking doing it cheap is foolish. If in frame, op needs to be much more specific as to the surface roughness, and measurements for any real advice. In frame needs at minimum polish before measuring. (Shoe string/600grit)
You never want to "build" to the service limit. There should be a build spec in the range of .0018- .0045in
I highly advise staying in the tighter to middle end of spec. Service spec is an inspection clearance only. Anything near the max here needs a full rebuild.