B7200 start switch replacement

rustythread

Member

Equipment
L35, B7200HST
Nov 10, 2012
71
13
8
Mt Vernon, IL
I'm going to replace my ancient B7200 HST starter switch due to problems consistent with worn-out switch innards. How do I get at the old switch? Do I need to pull the fuel tank and go in from the rear? Does the whole orange "dashboard" come (off and if so how do I deal with the compression release and the engine stop knob)?

I know that the purist way of thorough diagnosis before part replacement is preferred, but I'm under some other constraints.

Many thanks for any advise.
 

Dave_eng

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M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,235
1,018
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Looking at the parts photo, it looks like the chrome trim ring unscrews to free the switch.

Have battery ground cable disconnected to avoid any shorting of switch terminals as you pull back.

forum B7200HST key switch.jpg


Dave
 

Dave_eng

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,235
1,018
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
clearance
Appreciated. But how do I get clearance to get the old switch out of, and the new switch into, the instrument panel when freed?
I have not done this on a B7200 so not in a position to offer first hand advice.

Other members will respond given a bit of time.

In general I see the wiring harness acting as a pull cord to pull the switch back enough to come free of the dash and then down to allow you to access the terminals.

To avoid wiring connected to the wrong switch terminal in the switch replacement, take a number of photos before disconnecting anything.

Dave
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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Myersville, MD
windyridgefarm.us
clearance
Appreciated. But how do I get clearance to get the old switch out of, and the new switch into, the instrument panel when freed?
I have done a bit of work on mine and AFAIK the fuel tank has to come out or more precisely the cowling has to come off. I have a new glow plug indicator that has not installed itself for that very reason.....

Dan
 

Firefox

Member

Equipment
2650 hst cab,fel,72mmm,48lp forks,48 tiller,PeCo vac,wt box
Mar 15, 2018
30
2
8
Swanton ,Oh
I'm going to replace my ancient B7200 HST starter switch due to problems consistent with worn-out switch innards. How do I get at the old switch? Do I need to pull the fuel tank and go in from the rear? Does the whole orange "dashboard" come (off and if so how do I deal with the compression release and the engine stop knob)?

I know that the purist way of thorough diagnosis before part replacement is preferred, but I'm under some other constraints.

Many thanks for any advise.
Replaced that switch 4 or 5 yrs ago on my old 7200hst. Remove screws under dashboard corners(maybe center), will come out and up enough to access wiring behind dash. I found cooked terminals on junction block between dash wiring and harness going to front of tractor. Cut block out and crimp each wire with insulated spade connectors.(sold tractor 3 yrs ago after 10 yrs ownership)
 
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rustythread

Member

Equipment
L35, B7200HST
Nov 10, 2012
71
13
8
Mt Vernon, IL
Thanks much. New switch got here today, so will dive in over the weekend.

Saturday:

Got the dash panel loose by removing three screws at bottom as suggested by Firefox. Switch turned when I got vise grips on front trim ring; looked inside and switch-dashboard contact area is glommed up with dried, hardened caulk or glue. Wires at back of switch also covered thickly with some dried rubbery caulk-type substance. May have to pull steering wheel to make more room to work.
 
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rustythread

Member

Equipment
L35, B7200HST
Nov 10, 2012
71
13
8
Mt Vernon, IL
Thanks much. New switch got here today, so will dive in over the weekend.

Saturday:

Got the dash panel loose by removing three screws at bottom as suggested by Firefox. Switch turned when I got vise grips on front trim ring; looked inside and switch-dashboard contact area is glommed up with dried, hardened caulk or glue. Wires at back of switch also covered thickly with some dried rubbery caulk-type substance. May have to pull steering wheel to make more room to work.
No combination of available pullers could get a grip on the steering wheel; if that turns out to be necesssary, I may have to make some sort of puller plate. Owning machinery is sure a constant learning opportunity.

This brief job has turned into an all-day meeting and dinner on the ground.
Seems like the PO who previously replaced this switch and glued it in also used a really good threadlocker on the terminal screws; I'll have to find a way to dissolve that, or I'll strip out the screw heads.

The switch was apparently glued in because it does not have the little protrusion which locks into a slot on the dash to keep the whole assembly from rotating when the key is turned. Now I see that my new replacement switch doesn't have it either...

QUERY: Does anyone here know of a way to cure that problem? E.g., drilling through the dash panel and into the switch body and inserting a pin or small screw?



[BTW, the bolts which hold the dash panel to the chassis are 8 x 1.25 mm tap bolts, 20 mm thread length. They appear to be used in a number of places on the tractor body panels.]

Sure glad I'm not billing myself by the hour.
 

rustythread

Member

Equipment
L35, B7200HST
Nov 10, 2012
71
13
8
Mt Vernon, IL
GOT IT! Switch wired up and in the dash; works well. Will get the panels bolted back on shortly.
This was a real adventure, as I have no depth perception and only 5% of normal vision.
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
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