Adding lights to my B2650 ROPS

[BetterThanAShovel]

There are lots of great guides, though I can't seem to find any dealing with SPECIFICALLY the B2650. So the first thing I want to verify is the "work light lead". I THINK it's this, right?

From what I've learned so far, I SHOULD be able to add about 84 watts worth of lights to ROPS before I take more than the dynamo is giving (and would thus be draining the battery). Does that sound right?

I've found a useful video online about replacing the dynamo with an alternator kit, but I don't see the need for more than 84 watts worth of light. That would be a good 2 spotlights forward and backward.

Any input is helpful. I'm enjoying the challenge of doing this myself, and the satisfaction of getting it working. Been a long time since I added offroad lights to my old 4x4 truck in college, but it sure was fun when they turned on!

 

[Roadworthy]

I have an L2501 but yours should be similar. If you have the correct lead it should have twelve volts with the ignition switch turned on and nothing when turned off. You will need to add a switch for your work light. My work light circuit is fused at ten amps which equates to 120 watts. I generally take a conservative approach only loading my fused to about half of their capacity. In my case this would be sixty watts or five amps times twelve volts. I purchased a 240 watt LED light bar but upon connecting it to a battery learned it draws only five amps or sixty watts. It was perfect for my application. I fabricated mounts from some square U bolts from the big box store and some angle aluminum.

 

[RCW]

Don't have a B2650, but looks like my BX did years ago. Also had bullet connectors, and fused at 10A on a work light circuit.

Like Roadworthy said, many here have noted that their LED's don't draw as much as their LED lights are rated for - - in fact some draw much less.

 

[chim]

I've had open station and cabbed tractors. ROPS mounting isn't my first choice. On the B7500 I had, the lights were mounted on tabs I made that bolted to the stationary FEL frame. I'd also recommend floods. You want lots of light on the areas near the tractor. Mine won't go much over 17MPH. Spots shining at something that takes 3 minutes to get to are silly.

Lighting Revisited

Past Problems: * ROPS mounted work lights attracted bugs in warm weather and probably because I wear glasses, provided glare year-round. This was true with halogens and LED's. * LED's mounted on the ROPS and cab roof made it difficult to see where the cut / uncut grass met. I'm guessing it has...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

I've had open station and cabbed tractors. ROPS mounting isn't my first choice. On the B7500 I had, the lights were mounted on tabs I made that bolted to the stationary FEL frame. I'd also recommend floods. You want lots of light on the areas near the tractor. Mine won't go much over 17MPH. Spots shining at something that takes 3 minutes to get to are silly.

Lighting Revisited

Past Problems: * ROPS mounted work lights attracted bugs in warm weather and probably because I wear glasses, provided glare year-round. This was true with halogens and LED's. * LED's mounted on the ROPS and cab roof made it difficult to see where the cut / uncut grass met. I'm guessing it has...

www.orangetractortalks.com

I like the creativity of where the lights are mounted there. For my situation, I don't expect I'll ever have the FEL off, so it's always going to be an obstacle for lighting from the front.

I was leaning away from floodlights just to save some wattage. I figured the spotlights, place up high on the ROPS, would still provide some falloff to give some general area lighting.

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

I have an L2501 but yours should be similar. If you have the correct lead it should have twelve volts with the ignition switch turned on and nothing when turned off. You will need to add a switch for your work light. My work light circuit is fused at ten amps which equates to 120 watts. I generally take a conservative approach only loading my fused to about half of their capacity. In my case this would be sixty watts or five amps times twelve volts. I purchased a 240 watt LED light bar but upon connecting it to a battery learned it draws only five amps or sixty watts. It was perfect for my application. I fabricated mounts from some square U bolts from the big box store and some angle aluminum.

Off by a factor of 4?? That's quite a difference between spec wattage and actual. I might buy some lights then and hook them up to a test stand and see how they rate before I decide how many to mount.

 

[RCW]

Off by a factor of 4?? That's quite a difference between spec wattage and actual. I might buy some lights then and hook them up to a test stand and see how they rate before I decide how many to mount.

I don't recall specifics, but a couple/few guys mentioned similar experiences a while back in a thread about LED's and work light load.

I didn't check mine. I run 4 small square floods - 2 forward and 2-back. All the light I need snowblowing.

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

I don't recall specifics, but a couple/few guys mentioned similar experiences a while back in a thread about LED's and work light load.

I didn't check mine. I run 4 small square floods - 2 forward and 2-back. All the light I need snowblowing.

Do you run them off a switch, or they just come on when you turn the key? Do you use a switch and relay?

 

[dirtydeed]

I'll offer this up to you. Take it for what it's worth, but I added lights about a year or so ago. I used an inexpensive wiring kit with relay. It has a lighted switch. I used magnets to mount the lights to the rops. They can still be rotated/adjusted to where you need the light. Pretty simple and effective...

Here is the link:

What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

B737, that is ingenuity at it's best. (y) (y) or stupidity! lol I really need to build a proper detached shop. All I could think about was "if something goes wrong, this will not read or reflect well in the newspaper" :ROFLMAO: but aside from checking clearances I didnt have to be near it...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[chim]

Here's where the lights were mounted on the B7500 I mentioned. Couldn't locate better pictures.

 

[i7win7]

From what I've learned so far, I SHOULD be able to add about 84 watts worth of lights to ROPS before I take more than the dynamo is giving (and would thus be draining the battery). Does that sound right?

Fuses do not protect the dynomo, protects the wiring from getting so hot that the insulation melts and starts an electrical fire.

Volts x Amps = Watts ... 12V x 10A = 120W. I personally wouldn't push the fuse to it's maximum capacity.

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

I can select what electrical add-ons I wish to use and gave me the option of some operator comfort.

1 Cool ROPS accessory

Flex-a-Lite model 116 radiator fan 2,215 CFM and 11 amp draw. Stirs up quite a breeze. May help with bugs a night when running lights. Ground speed in reverse slightly faster? :unsure:

www.orangetractortalks.com

1 cool BX mod

I did it again. The cooling fan I added to the B worked so well it was time to upgrade the "lawn mower". Now the location of the ROPS hinge poses a significant problem. The fan has to mount to the top half but, can't mount to lower half if you need to lower the ROPS. After significant mental...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[BetterThanAShovel]

Fuses do not protect the dynomo, protects the wiring from getting so hot that the insulation melts and starts an electrical fire.

My concern, when I wrote that, wasn't about blowing a fuse. I had read that the dynamo only puts out like 15 amps, total. I read that the tractor running normally uses about 5 amps, so I figured using 7 amps for lighting would make sure I wasn't starting to drain the battery....with plenty of leeway.

Nice mod links, thanks.

 

[i7win7]

May have look over owner manual. Not sure if fuel shut off is powered to turn off or powered to run. In the daytime, The only power draw I can think of is the digital dash. I haven't had any issues running 11A fan when tractor is running that prompted to upgrade the lawn mower also.

 

[ACDII]

Years ago I ran 12GA wire from the fuse panel, to a relay and back to the ROPS to power lights. The relay was wired to the headlights so I could turn them all on with the switch. Since only the relay was a power draw, it added very little wattage to the lighting circuit. With LED lights today, I can light up the field and play ball on the same wattage my 3 small lights draw.

I attached the lights to the ROPS using large hose clamps and rubber backing so no drilling into the ROPS was needed and ran a separate ground wire to each. This way I could remove everything and not leave a mark that something was there or leave bare exposed metal to the elements.