KUBOTA L345DT Project Advice

[Kubotalseries]

The engine is v1501-da.
I think you are right about the bad frost plug behind the gear case. Il be pulling that soon and find out

 

[rbargeron]

Thanks for the reply. il be pulling the front gear case just don't want to pull head and again. I have 1 leaking freeze plug on the side of the engine and someone has plugged up another in past with a rubber plug. I noticed there is a freeze plug looking type of plug inside the crankcase. I don't know maybe that one inside is bad too? I don't know, il be pulling the front case soon hopelly it's not a big Job.

Yes, there's a "sealing cap" 005 in the block - shown in the crankcase parts drawing - next to the water pump. High likelihood that its the offending item, especially given that others on this engine have "history".

 

[rbargeron]

The engine is v1501-da.
I think you are right about the bad frost plug behind the gear case. Il be pulling that soon and find out

The WSM for L345/L355 shows the tractor separating at the front of the engine. Loader stays put, except take out the 4 bolts holding front loader frame arms to the chin bar, (which goes with the axle). Disconnect the front driveshaft, battery wiring, radiator stay, etc and put a support under the engine. Use wooden wedges to prevent tilting sideways. Most of the front end stays assembled. Use a rolling floor jack to lift and roll it out. Work safe. Have a helper when moving it. Best luck - Dick B

 

[rbargeron]

MORE on whether the front case will come off WITHOUT splitting the tractor.

The WSMs for the L345DT and L355ss have almost NO information or pictures on how the engine is supported at the front. Most engine work is only covered in Kubota's engine wsms.

In the front axle parts diagram there's a part no. 37800-44710 for the cast bracket that connects the engine's oil pan to the front axle. Later models added heavy flat plates to reinforce it - but there's still very little mention in the tractor WSMs.

It looks like it may be possible to get the front engine case off with this still in place without taking the whole front off the tractor - but I've not seen anything on TBN or OTT about it. Attached pic is from a bay auction. The 2 PDF's are from an engine WSM - but the special front bracket used on a L345 tractor is not shown. All that said, it actually looks like they intended the gear case to be removable with tractor mostly still assembled. Radiator & fan belt may have to go so the fan clears. Then the project reduces to finding o-rings, gasket, and plug(s). That would be pretty cool.

I'll ask North Idaho Wolfman if he knows and could confirm one way or the other.

Take care, Dick B

 

[rbargeron]

The engine is v1501-da.
I think you are right about the bad frost plug behind the gear case. Il be pulling that soon and find out

See post #24 about whether splitting the tractor is really needed for taking off the gear case.

 

[claya1]

I am looking at a V1501-DA engine that has a leaking freeze plug. Owner knows not very much. Tractor is L345DT. How do I know if it is a DI or DE? What difference does it make?

The engine requires starting fluid to fire up. Coolant in the oil. Once started, runs fine. So what am I getting into here? A complete re-build, or just a head/gasket replacement? I am not interested in doing a complete re-build, and not at all in an engine swap.

I am upgrading from a Iseiki 19HP, that is grey market, and too small. This L345DT is a big jump, just not interested in it turning into a project tractor.

Tractor looks fairly used, ODO: 1515mi, which I do not trust. Owner does not know. It also needs a new ignition switch, which also suggests more than 1515mi? Owner is asking $4K. Seems high considering, but maybe not anymore. Buy, or walk away? Advice?

 

[rbargeron]

The hour meter reading 1515 hours is about how long they last before the meter cable breaks. Most L345DT's that look "used" are closer to 3k hours, but may still be well-worth refreshing. See above posts for ideas on what might be leaking coolant into the oil. When it does start and run does it sound like it's running smoothly? Or does it sound like it's skipping? $4k isn't out of line if engine is smooth and hydraulics are working. Best to find an experienced tractor person to look at it with you.

 

[007kubotaguy]

I am looking at a V1501-DA engine that has a leaking freeze plug. Owner knows not very much. Tractor is L345DT. How do I know if it is a DI or DE? What difference does it make?

The engine requires starting fluid to fire up. Coolant in the oil. Once started, runs fine. So what am I getting into here? A complete re-build, or just a head/gasket replacement? I am not interested in doing a complete re-build, and not at all in an engine swap.

I am upgrading from a Iseiki 19HP, that is grey market, and too small. This L345DT is a big jump, just not interested in it turning into a project tractor.

Tractor looks fairly used, ODO: 1515mi, which I do not trust. Owner does not know. It also needs a new ignition switch, which also suggests more than 1515mi? Owner is asking $4K. Seems high considering, but maybe not anymore. Buy, or walk away? Advice?

The L345 is a good tractor. If they are using starting fluid to start the tractor that means the engine is in extremely poor shape. Kubotas do not like starting fluid. Looks like you are in my area. Send me a PM I would be happy to go look at the tractor with you or for you.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Does it have a loader?