Front tire wear

[Butch]

Guys.... I have my 4wd B2410 (No Biturn). My front turf tires (Originals) are worn down past the tread on the outside edges on both sides left and right. Cord not showing yet though. The inside tread is great. The rest of the tire(s) are fine... plenty of tread.
I checked alignment just like the handy dandy work shop manual and the front alignment and it seemed okey dokey. I always checked my tire pressures and made sure 4wd was NOT engaged on regular surfaces.

Any ideas all?

Butch

 

[Orange Turbo]

The Only other thing I can think of, would be alot of hard turns, The outside of the tire would take the hit. (leading edge) And want to roll under.
Just a guess..........
To save what's left on the tires, swap the tires around on the rim and try running more air..

 

[ShaunRH]

You should have done this before you lost all outer tread, but you can dismount the tires from the rims, swap them on the rims (or flip them around) and now wear the outsides on the 'good' tread.

This is not uncommon on tractors that see hard dirt, asphalt or concrete. The alignment on a tractor is usually intended for softer dirt and/or grass. It's just the way turfs tend to respond to wear when lots of turning is involved, especially on harder surfaces. I've seen this on riding mowers too.

The fix I usually hear is the swap the tires on the rims bit.

 

[85Hokie]

Guys.... I have my 4wd B2410 (No Biturn). My front turf tires (Originals) are worn down past the tread on the outside edges on both sides left and right. Cord not showing yet though. The inside tread is great. The rest of the tire(s) are fine... plenty of tread.
I checked alignment just like the handy dandy work shop manual and the front alignment and it seemed okey dokey. I always checked my tire pressures and made sure 4wd was NOT engaged on regular surfaces.

Any ideas all?

Butch

I agree with flipping the tires around and placing the inside edge out to the outside edge. And running them for another few years!

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I thought I was the only one...

I still can't "figger" out why they need so much camber in a tractor front end!

I run on hard rocky soils but, doing a U-turn on my concrete driveway leaves powdered rubber. I figured I'd just swap 'em for another year or so then treat myself to a new set. I found my ag tires online for about $65 apiece. I may have my friends at Discount Tire see if they can beat that...

 

[Wbk]

Guys.... I have my 4wd B2410 (No Biturn). My front turf tires (Originals) are worn down past the tread on the outside edges on both sides left and right. Cord not showing yet though. The inside tread is great. The rest of the tire(s) are fine... plenty of tread.
I checked alignment just like the handy dandy work shop manual and the front alignment and it seemed okey dokey. I always checked my tire pressures and made sure 4wd was NOT engaged on regular surfaces.

Any ideas all?

Butch

Hi Butch it would appear that you have too much toe in, would recheck it and set it at 0". Toein will cause tires to wear a lot faster than camber.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I checked mine and its within the specified 2 to 8 mm (.08 - .31 inch) as well.

I think it the nature of the front end geometry. The outside tire scuffs a little more and, with the camber, my tractor is sitting completely on the outside of the outside tire in a tight turn.

 

[Bulldog]

Just curious, how many hrs do they have on them?

Do you run on asphalt alot?

 

[ShaunRH]

I've heard a lot of reasons for the castor (tilt) on tractors but it seems to go back to the wheel that is 'pushing' in the turn getting more lift and push force in soft soil / mud than the inside wheel which is mostly along for the ride and the tilt keeps it more vertical and acting like a rudder in the turn. That was the logic an old timer gave me once and it made the most sense to me.

The problem is on hard surfaces, that same logic has that outer tire trying to scrub off every ounce of outer rubber that tire possesses! Go figure.

 

[cerlawson]

Why not raise the air pressure and transfer the problem to the middle? Is the front end load pretty high, showing the need for the higher pressure any how?

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I can over inflate my L3800 tires by 10psi and in a tight turn, only the outside half of the tire is in contact with the concrete. And that is sitting still. Moving, its probably higher on the sidewall.

 

[Cooker]

Howdy everyone. How do I check & set toe in on a BX2370?

 

[Njtool]

Howdy everyone. How do I check & set toe in on a BX2370?

You can start by creating your own thread instead of bringing back a thread thats over 6 years old.
Comment on a few threads then the feature to creat a thread will be accessible to you.

 

[Dave_eng]

On the top corner of this page there is an envelope symbol. Yours should have a read letter beside it as I have sent you the alignment procedure.

Njtool's advice should be followed

Dave

 

[Captain13]

I don’t know the procedure provided by Kubota, but the only good way I know to check alignment and tow in at home is using a parallel string setup so that you can make reasonably accurate measurements. Parallel strings allow you to use the rims for measurement, not the tires. The last time I used that method on a truck so that I could get it to an alignment shop without ruining the front tires, I was able to align the front end and had the tow in within 1/16 of the preferred factory setting.

With that said, it sounds like you have too much tow in on the front end. I would get as close to the .08 (not the .30) as you can. On a highway vehicle, tow in is required because at speed, the force on the front end pushed front to rear and a 1/8” tow (1/16 on each side) pushes back making the front wheels parallel rather than “toed in”. You don’t have the speed on a tractor to do that. You need some toe in so that the tractor will run straight and not have a tendency to weave.