I have a new BX1880 and I am new to a sub compact tractor. I want a hitch and ball to move my bass boat and truck utility trailer around. Bl bought the 20” bat and installed it on the two bottom points. I see there are ones that also hook to the top pivot bare. Is that necessary for me?
Adding a 20” bar and ball to my three point hitch
- Thread starter Mike Ingle
- Start date
You should at least have this mounted on the drawbar to keep the ball from twisting out of the trailer hitch.
If you are handy, you can make something that will keep the drawbar from twisting.
If you are handy, you can make something that will keep the drawbar from twisting.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You should get the three point connections “trailer mover” and not the drawbar for two point connections.
The drawbar was not designed for putting trailer balls on without other add ons
The drawbar was not designed for putting trailer balls on without other add ons
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Just remember this .......... your tractor can move a truck in neutral rather easily ... a bass boat VERY easily ........
so whats the problem? Stopping it!!! Never move the boat in a position that you are heading in a situation that stopping it will create a problem. And rather than moving it at warp speed - BE IN LOW gear and go as slow as slow gets. Allow the HST to slow you down before you apply the brakes ......... and OBTW - use 4 drive anytime your are towing the boat! THAT way you have 4 wheel hydraulic braking and 4 wheel friction braking!
There have been a few tales on the forum over the years of hay ride incidents. A friendly guy with a tractor agrees to pull the neighborhood kids on a trailer. All is well for as long as there is tongue weight on the hitch. Once there is a weight shift and the tongue is now seeing lifting forces, the 3 pt hitch cannot keep the hitch down and suddenly everything is very unstable and kids start falling off.
As other have mentioned, there are 3 pt devices which use the upper hitch point to prevent the lower arms from rising.
The real draw bar is a preferred option for towing but I understand why the 3 pt appeals to some.
My first tractor was a Ford 8N which did not come with a drawbar. Using the 3 pt hitch for pulling was an experience I am glad has ended for me with newer tractors.
Dave
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As other have mentioned, there are 3 pt devices which use the upper hitch point to prevent the lower arms from rising.
The real draw bar is a preferred option for towing but I understand why the 3 pt appeals to some.
My first tractor was a Ford 8N which did not come with a drawbar. Using the 3 pt hitch for pulling was an experience I am glad has ended for me with newer tractors.
Dave
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For pulling things like boats short distances the 3pt hitch is excellent. My boat has a tandem trailer, and the wheels scuff when turning. The 3pt lets me lift it high, which unweights the front wheels on the trailer enough to not scuff. Also puts a lot of down weight on the rear of the B2601, which helps with traction.
On a tandem trailer you can't really get tail heavy, so tipping up is unlikely. On a single axle trailer you'd want to be more careful. You also need to be careful not to pull hard from too high above the rear axle. With the 3pt hitch all the way up your centre of pull is well above the axle, so if you reverse then stop suddenly (say, backing into the boat ramp.....) then you can pop your front wheels into the air. Same again pulling out - with the 3pt hitch all the way up you can pop the front wheels. You need to be careful and know what you're doing.
Conversely, I can back up to the trailer, drop the 3pt, back under, lift it again, and I'm away. For moving things quickly (maybe you need to mow under them) it's brilliant.
On a tandem trailer you can't really get tail heavy, so tipping up is unlikely. On a single axle trailer you'd want to be more careful. You also need to be careful not to pull hard from too high above the rear axle. With the 3pt hitch all the way up your centre of pull is well above the axle, so if you reverse then stop suddenly (say, backing into the boat ramp.....) then you can pop your front wheels into the air. Same again pulling out - with the 3pt hitch all the way up you can pop the front wheels. You need to be careful and know what you're doing.
Conversely, I can back up to the trailer, drop the 3pt, back under, lift it again, and I'm away. For moving things quickly (maybe you need to mow under them) it's brilliant.
When you present your needs in much more detail my concerns go away.
Usually some folks looking for advice need to be guided very carefully to avoid a disaster.
Simple jobs like jumping a starter to prove the starter is good, is advice I give with lots of cautions. For experienced operators, they already know what to do to avoid being run over by their own machine. For the novice, giving the Jump starter instruction is dangerous.
Happy towing.
Dave
I'm not the OP though, and the OP, from his question, legitimately might need that advice. I was just tempering it a little - because there's a tendency for people to say "never tow with the 3ph", which as you say is good general advice, but there are times it makes sense.
Creature Meadow
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2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
I use the draw bar on my 3 point quiet often to move trailers around, they are a beautiful thing and easy on the back when hooking up.
With that said, it is only around the farm and only flat ground.
Backing the trailer under the barn, moving the equipment trailer so I can land plane the parking area, relocating the enclosed trailer where needed when doing construction projects etc.
However when pulling the trailer loaded with hay in parades, farm tours, etc. I always use the draw bar attached to the tractor not the 3 point.
Best of luck.
Jay
With that said, it is only around the farm and only flat ground.
Backing the trailer under the barn, moving the equipment trailer so I can land plane the parking area, relocating the enclosed trailer where needed when doing construction projects etc.
However when pulling the trailer loaded with hay in parades, farm tours, etc. I always use the draw bar attached to the tractor not the 3 point.
Best of luck.
Jay
Using the 3-pt for that purpose is dangerous. 3-pts are made for 3-pt accessories. Several companies make a device that mounts to the tractors rear frame where you can than attach a 2" receiver/ball. Even have places to attach your safety chains. If to low for your purpose, get a ball mount with a 6 or 8" rise. This this safest for you, your boat & trailer AND BX. Use 4WD if going up or down hills. You did not mention the SIZE of your boat or trailer. Be careful of the weight you are moving. It may push your BX around. Great little tractor as long as you don't exceed it limits. That where you get hurt and damage equipment.
You can buy a ready made item that works perfectly for what you want for around $62 delivered. I have one and my son in law does as well.
I have pulled a lot of 5x8 dump trailer loads of dirt, weighing probably at least 3K lbs, with my BX2200. The only problem was losing traction on up slopes. I did not pull the trailer down slope with a load on it. But it weighs about 1400 pounds empty and was never a problem empty. Trailer is street legal, 3500 lb. rating, not a garden tractor trailer.
Here is a link. Mine was cheaper a couple years ago, but this is still a good deal.
2 Receiver 3 Point Trailer Hitch Category One Tractor Tow Hitch Drawbar Adapter | eBay
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