LA211 not working right on BX2200 after hydraulic servicing

[cerial]

Hi, I just changed the hydraulic fluid, filter (and cleaned the strainer), and a bunch of cracked hoses on my BX2200 and LA211 loader. After all of these changes, the FEL isn't working correctly. It moves up alright (not perfect), but doesn't move down very well. Curl only works an inch or two in each direction, and not every time I press the lever (but it does work a little). I drove it around for 30 minutes and the loader moved a little bit more than it was moving right when I started it up, but nothing substantial.

The main recommendation I've seen is to re-seat all of the quick connect spots, which I did. Someone also recommended I switch the boom/curl lines to see if it was an issue with the control valve - after switching the connections I got the same performance - up worked alright (albeit I was pressing to the right instead of down) and the other three directions didn't really want to move. One item of note is that one of the female QC connections did NOT want to close, despite me relieving the pressure before trying to disconnect (assuming that moving the joystick in all directions is the right way to release the pressure). Both times I had to unscrew the hose the female fitting is on and relieve pressure manually (as well as let a bit of hydraulic fluid out). This was NOT one of the hoses I changed though.

My mechanic friend (who lives in a different state and is helping me over the phone) thinks I have something restricting flow. He recommended disconnecting the hoses from the control valve and blowing air through all of the holes on the valve to ensure there aren't any obstructions. In his line of work the control valve has the smallest ports and is most likely to clog, but he works on giant machinery not hobby tractors and I don't know if that's the same with small tractors.

My gut tells me its has to do with that QC fitting that isn't working right. If its not relieving pressure the "usual" way, that seems like it could cause my issues because its restricting flow. I however am an accountant by trade, and they teach very little mechanics in accounting. I don't know if my theory holds water or if my FUD around trying to blow out the valve is making me hope I just need to change a fitting, even if it does cost 30$.

Not sure what other info might be useful. its a 2005 with the bx2014 4pt hydraulic valve. 1070 hours. I've had it for about 4 years. I have not been a good tractor owner, but its not in terrible shape. I didn't drive it for a while, but the last time I used it I didn't have these issues. Per the dipstick, I have the correct volume of hydraulic fluid in it. It *kind of* sounds like its leaking air when i turn it on, but its so loud im not sure if im imagining it or not. Ive run it for about 50 minutes since changing the fluids/hoses and that seems like a long time to take to bleed air out of the hydraulic system (albeit I have absolutely 0 frame of reference).

Thank you for reading this far and I truly appreciate any help you can provide.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi, I just changed the hydraulic fluid, filter (and cleaned the strainer), and a bunch of cracked hoses on my BX2200 and LA211 loader. After all of these changes, the FEL isn't working correctly. It moves up alright (not perfect), but doesn't move down very well. Curl only works an inch or two in each direction, and not every time I press the lever (but it does work a little). I drove it around for 30 minutes and the loader moved a little bit more than it was moving right when I started it up, but nothing substantial.

The main recommendation I've seen is to re-seat all of the quick connect spots, which I did. Someone also recommended I switch the boom/curl lines to see if it was an issue with the control valve - after switching the connections I got the same performance - up worked alright (albeit I was pressing to the right instead of down) and the other three directions didn't really want to move. One item of note is that one of the female QC connections did NOT want to close, despite me relieving the pressure before trying to disconnect (assuming that moving the joystick in all directions is the right way to release the pressure). Both times I had to unscrew the hose the female fitting is on and relieve pressure manually (as well as let a bit of hydraulic fluid out). This was NOT one of the hoses I changed though.

My mechanic friend (who lives in a different state and is helping me over the phone) thinks I have something restricting flow. He recommended disconnecting the hoses from the control valve and blowing air through all of the holes on the valve to ensure there aren't any obstructions. In his line of work the control valve has the smallest ports and is most likely to clog, but he works on giant machinery not hobby tractors and I don't know if that's the same with small tractors.

My gut tells me its has to do with that QC fitting that isn't working right. If its not relieving pressure the "usual" way, that seems like it could cause my issues because its restricting flow. I however am an accountant by trade, and they teach very little mechanics in accounting. I don't know if my theory holds water or if my FUD around trying to blow out the valve is making me hope I just need to change a fitting, even if it does cost 30$.

Not sure what other info might be useful. its a 2005 with the bx2014 4pt hydraulic valve. 1070 hours. I've had it for about 4 years. I have not been a good tractor owner, but its not in terrible shape. I didn't drive it for a while, but the last time I used it I didn't have these issues. Per the dipstick, I have the correct volume of hydraulic fluid in it. It *kind of* sounds like its leaking air when i turn it on, but its so loud im not sure if im imagining it or not. Ive run it for about 50 minutes since changing the fluids/hoses and that seems like a long time to take to bleed air out of the hydraulic system (albeit I have absolutely 0 frame of reference).

Thank you for reading this far and I truly appreciate any help you can provide.

WAG - you have reversed the power beyond and tank hose connections.

Dan

 

[cerial]

WAG - you have reversed the power beyond and tank hose connections.

Dan

I can't guarantee I have those three connections right, but im like 99% sure I do. The Power Beyond port has a drastically different length hose on it than the other two (the other two have their quick connect fittings at the tractor, the Power Beyond's quick connect is up at the control valve). Also, I convinced someone on reddit to take a picture of their hose hookups with color coded labels and confirmed I have the three cables coming from the tractor hooked into the same spot he has them hooked into. If i was to number the three ports coming off the tractor with Power Beyond as #1, the 2nd port is hooked into the control valve on the "tractor" side. The 3rd port is hooked into the valve on the outboard side. This matches the diagram on the LA211 parts book.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi, I just changed the hydraulic fluid, filter (and cleaned the strainer), and a bunch of cracked hoses on my BX2200 and LA211 loader. After all of these changes, the FEL isn't working correctly. It moves up alright (not perfect), but doesn't move down very well. Curl only works an inch or two in each direction, and not every time I press the lever (but it does work a little). I drove it around for 30 minutes and the loader moved a little bit more than it was moving right when I started it up, but nothing substantial.

The main recommendation I've seen is to re-seat all of the quick connect spots, which I did. Someone also recommended I switch the boom/curl lines to see if it was an issue with the control valve - after switching the connections I got the same performance - up worked alright (albeit I was pressing to the right instead of down) and the other three directions didn't really want to move. One item of note is that one of the female QC connections did NOT want to close, despite me relieving the pressure before trying to disconnect (assuming that moving the joystick in all directions is the right way to release the pressure). Both times I had to unscrew the hose the female fitting is on and relieve pressure manually (as well as let a bit of hydraulic fluid out). This was NOT one of the hoses I changed though.

My mechanic friend (who lives in a different state and is helping me over the phone) thinks I have something restricting flow. He recommended disconnecting the hoses from the control valve and blowing air through all of the holes on the valve to ensure there aren't any obstructions. In his line of work the control valve has the smallest ports and is most likely to clog, but he works on giant machinery not hobby tractors and I don't know if that's the same with small tractors.

My gut tells me its has to do with that QC fitting that isn't working right. If its not relieving pressure the "usual" way, that seems like it could cause my issues because its restricting flow. I however am an accountant by trade, and they teach very little mechanics in accounting. I don't know if my theory holds water or if my FUD around trying to blow out the valve is making me hope I just need to change a fitting, even if it does cost 30$.

Not sure what other info might be useful. its a 2005 with the bx2014 4pt hydraulic valve. 1070 hours. I've had it for about 4 years. I have not been a good tractor owner, but its not in terrible shape. I didn't drive it for a while, but the last time I used it I didn't have these issues. Per the dipstick, I have the correct volume of hydraulic fluid in it. It *kind of* sounds like its leaking air when i turn it on, but its so loud im not sure if im imagining it or not. Ive run it for about 50 minutes since changing the fluids/hoses and that seems like a long time to take to bleed air out of the hydraulic system (albeit I have absolutely 0 frame of reference).

Thank you for reading this far and I truly appreciate any help you can provide.

Air in the lines will not cause your problem. I have no famuiliarity with that loader and tractor so your description of teh connections doesn't help me much. Why are there quick connects on the hoses going to the tractor? Does the loader valve come off with the loader?

Bottom line is you changed hoses and the loader quit working. Points very strongly to mixed up connections somewhere.

Dan

 

[cerial]

Air in the lines will not cause your problem. I have no famuiliarity with that loader and tractor so your description of teh connections doesn't help me much. Why are there quick connects on the hoses going to the tractor? Does the loader valve come off with the loader?

Bottom line is you changed hoses and the loader quit working. Points very strongly to mixed up connections somewhere.

Dan

The qc on the hoses going to the tractor are stock with this particular tractor (theoretically ive inserted a picture below):

I have never actually removed my loader so I dont know for certain if the control valve comes off, but I do not think it does. Im like 99% sure you have to connect the Power Beyond to the port next to it if you take off the loader, so I imagine thats why it's quick connect gets a hose and the other two dont.

From the control valve there are 4 ports that connect to the loader arm - two valves on top and two on bottom. the 4 hoses are basically in 2 sets, with the quick connect fittings located at different points. So, you can't plug hoses from set A into set B as they just arent long enough. You CAN switch the two hoses in Set A amongst each other, and same with set B. When i did that last night, it changed which direction i had to push on the control lever to make the bucket go up.

My understanding is: that two of the ports send fluid into the loader, and two of the ports let it out. if the loader is able to raise, that means its getting fluid into that section at least. the loader having a hard time lowering means its not able to let the fluid out. My theory doesnt really mesh with the curl not working very well in either direction though.

My mind is stuck on the quick connect fitting that wont close unless i unscrew it from the hose to release pressure. That to me says theres something wrong with the fitting, or it would work like the other 3 without a problem. Would a single bad QC fitting cause 3 different functions to not work as well?

Thanks again for your continued help with this.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The qc on the hoses going to the tractor are stock with this particular tractor (theoretically ive inserted a picture below):
View attachment 65074

I have never actually removed my loader so I dont know for certain if the control valve comes off, but I do not think it does. Im like 99% sure you have to connect the Power Beyond to the port next to it if you take off the loader, so I imagine thats why it's quick connect gets a hose and the other two dont.

From the control valve there are 4 ports that connect to the loader arm - two valves on top and two on bottom. the 4 hoses are basically in 2 sets, with the quick connect fittings located at different points. So, you can't plug hoses from set A into set B as they just arent long enough. You CAN switch the two hoses in Set A amongst each other, and same with set B. When i did that last night, it changed which direction i had to push on the control lever to make the bucket go up.

My understanding is: that two of the ports send fluid into the loader, and two of the ports let it out. if the loader is able to raise, that means its getting fluid into that section at least. the loader having a hard time lowering means its not able to let the fluid out. My theory doesnt really mesh with the curl not working very well in either direction though.

My mind is stuck on the quick connect fitting that wont close unless i unscrew it from the hose to release pressure. That to me says theres something wrong with the fitting, or it would work like the other 3 without a problem. Would a single bad QC fitting cause 3 different functions to not work as well?

Thanks again for your continued help with this.

You have four hoses on top of the valve that go to cylinders. Do those hoses have QC on them? If so the valve stays with the tractor when the loader is removed.

You also have three additional hoses that connect the valve to the tractor.

One hose delivers oil from the pump to the loader valve.

Second hose returns that oil to the tractor for use by the 3pt.

The third hose returns exhaust oil from the cylinders straight to the hydraulic sump.

If you have the second and third hoses reversed your loader qont work and you will have lots of pressure in the lines making it difficult to operate one or mor QCs. The valve should be marked with P for pressure in and T for tank return. The power beyond port may be labeled a lot of different ways - B, N, C, and PB are commonly used markings.

You need to get a good understanding of what ports on the tractor match the ports on the valve and VERIFY that they are all connected correctly. I cant see and you are not sure. You need to be 100% sure and that means you must positively identify and verify both ends of all three connections..

Dan

 

[cerial]

You have four hoses on top of the valve that go to cylinders. Do those hoses have QC on them? If so the valve stays with the tractor when the loader is removed.

You also have three additional hoses that connect the valve to the tractor.

One hose delivers oil from the pump to the loader valve.

Second hose returns that oil to the tractor for use by the 3pt.

The third hose returns exhaust oil from the cylinders straight to the hydraulic sump.

If you have the second and third hoses reversed your loader qont work and you will have lots of pressure in the lines making it difficult to operate one or mor QCs. The valve should be marked with P for pressure in and T for tank return. The power beyond port may be labeled a lot of different ways - B, N, C, and PB are commonly used markings.

You need to get a good understanding of what ports on the tractor match the ports on the valve and VERIFY that they are all connected correctly. I cant see and you are not sure. You need to be 100% sure and that means you must positively identify and verify both ends of all three connections..

Dan

On the valve, the PB line port doesn't appear to have a label. for the other two, the outboard side is marked Out and the side closest to the tractor is marked In. the 3 metal tubes coming from under the tractor are not marked. assuming my hydraulic system was installed according to the manual (they are rigid metal lines so I assume they can only install one way), the port labeled Out is hooked up to the Tank Port on the tractor, and the In port on the valve is hooked up to the Pump port. the manual indicates this is correct.

I will try reseating all 3 of these quick connects the next chance I get to see if I screwed up connecting them.

 

[Dustyx2]

If you look up underneath the tractor, there are hardline connectors for those and on my BX22 those are color coded with tape. The valve stays with the loader tower on my BX but has quick connects on the lines
to the cylinders also. When I have the snowblower on the front I disconnect those lines and leave the one tower with the tractor so the valve stays. Later BXs the valve stays with the tractor.
I think you have hoses between the valve and loader mixed up, as in not paired correctly.

 

[cerial]

If you look up underneath the tractor, there are hardline connector for those and on my BX22 those are color coded with tape. The valve stays with the loader tower on my BX but has quick connects on the lines
to the cylinders also. When I have the snowblower on the front I disconnect those lines and leave the one tower with the tractor so the valve stays. Later BXs the valve stays with the tractor.
I think you have hoses between the valve and loader mixed up.

That was my original theory as well. But, I've compared my hose connections to another person with the bx22/la211 and I was pretty confident I had them right based on his pictures. I'm obviously less confident now since two people here think they are wrong. I really don't have many options for how to switch the lines on the loader bc the QC fittings are in different spots and not all male cords reach all female cords. When I tried switching the two sets that do meet, it just changed which direction on my control stick made it go up vs curl.

Unfortunately the tape colors on the rigid lines on the loader arm have faded (other than the blue). that said, my hoses don't have colors anymore so it's kinda relative.


I haven't tried getting under the tractor to check those rigid lines yet, but that's on the list for the next time I get to work on things. as I noted in my prior response to Dan, I'm pretty confident I have the 3 hoses that go from the tractor to the valve in the correct spot based off the manual.

 

[cerial]

thanks everybody I got it working. I'm pretty sure I had the loader hoses switched like yall suggested. i started from scratch on reconnecting and now everything works.. sorry for being so stubborn. before working on this tractor the most I had ever done was an oil change on a car so I'm learning as I go.

 

[dlsmith]

You might want to mark the lines with colored tape or zip ties so you know which like goes where next time.