Jerry
- Thread starter Jerry R
- Start date
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
Hi Jerry and welcome to the forums! May I ask why you are concerned about the drop? When not in use you should have that bucket level on the ground. I even put mine down every time I get off the machine for safety. Perhaps someone has a WSM for the L60 series and can check the specs to confirm.
Goz63
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L2501, LA525 loader, QH15,Land Pride RCR1860, BB2560, SGC0660, forks
F you have the bucket off the ground and turn the tractor off it will slowly drop with Hydraulic bleed. That is normal. I second the comment, put the bucket on the ground when you turn the tractor off.
Jerry, the comments made about having the bucket on the ground when not in use are valid, but I don't think the bucket falling 8" in one hour is normal. I have a 14 yr. old tractor and I've had the tractor not running with the bucket a foot off the ground, and it stayed there for 1/2 a day. I had a 40 yr. old tractor that would stay up for days.
Might have some seals in the cylinders allowing fluid to bypass internally.
Might have some seals in the cylinders allowing fluid to bypass internally.
He said 8 inches in three hours. Just clarifying.
MY 19 year old B2910 will hold the bucket up for a long time, even overnight I think, as I did test it once out of curiosity.
I too always put implements on the ground when I park the tractor. Simply a good habit to get into.
Also agree, with those who say 8 inches in 3 hours is not a big deal. All depends on the control valve really. Some have tighter clearances internally than others, and leak less.
My take on it anyway...
Not unusual for this to happen.
Kubota's spec is a little more liberal than I'd like to see and I understand why.
I'd like to see zero drop in 3 hours but that's not gonna happen
cylinders and valves have tolerances. There is a such thing as tolerance stackup. So what the dealer would do if it were out of spec is to remove the cylinder and inspect the bore, the piston, seals, hoses, valve(s), everything. Almost always it's a cylinder bore, piston, or seal issue that causes excessive leakage. You would have to isolate which cylinder is the leaker and that's not exactly easy to do unless you have some JIC fittings.. What I always did was to remove the two hoses from one cylinder on one side, plug the hoses and cap the cylinder fittings (remember they have to be metal/high pressure plugs and caps--plastic ain't gonna cut it here). Then lift the loader, shut the engine off and let it sit. If it leaks down quickly, the cylinder that is still functional is the problem. After, I'd usually do the same process with the other cylinder and see if one is the leaker and one was good, or if both were leakers. At that point you know which cylinder is the issue and you know which one to deal with.
Always a good habit to put your implement on the ground when you ain't using it! The manual tells us that. Did you read it?
Kubota's spec is a little more liberal than I'd like to see and I understand why.
I'd like to see zero drop in 3 hours but that's not gonna happen
cylinders and valves have tolerances. There is a such thing as tolerance stackup. So what the dealer would do if it were out of spec is to remove the cylinder and inspect the bore, the piston, seals, hoses, valve(s), everything. Almost always it's a cylinder bore, piston, or seal issue that causes excessive leakage. You would have to isolate which cylinder is the leaker and that's not exactly easy to do unless you have some JIC fittings.. What I always did was to remove the two hoses from one cylinder on one side, plug the hoses and cap the cylinder fittings (remember they have to be metal/high pressure plugs and caps--plastic ain't gonna cut it here). Then lift the loader, shut the engine off and let it sit. If it leaks down quickly, the cylinder that is still functional is the problem. After, I'd usually do the same process with the other cylinder and see if one is the leaker and one was good, or if both were leakers. At that point you know which cylinder is the issue and you know which one to deal with.
Always a good habit to put your implement on the ground when you ain't using it! The manual tells us that. Did you read it?
Just a follow up question, but if a loader had quick disconnects, couldn't one just raise the loader, hold it in position with a 2x4, and then remove the disconnects. remove the 2x4, and see if the position held? If it held, then the issue would be with the control valve, right?
Just thinking out loud I guess, but probably something I would do....just to eliminate the possibility that both cylinders were good and the problem was in the control valve.