I have an old F3060 that has been having issues starting. I've eliminated all other causes other than the safety switches. The fella that owned it before me removed the seat safety switch, so the only two left it could be are the throttle safety and the neutral safety. I can't find anything about its location. I'd prefer to just replace it rather than remove it. Any tips about where I would find the throttle safety? I think its just got gunk on it since I can get it to start if I blow a bunch of compressed air under the mower in random places, but I'm sick of doing that. I've been starting it with a screwdriver on the starter for the last week and the wife is afraid of the sparks, so id like to fix it so she doesn't have to deal with the rednecking starting method. Thank you in advance.
Kubota F3060 Throttle Safety
- Thread starter BigTeatsRoadhous
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Any help would be appreciated. To be honest I'm not sure what the switches look like, or how to repair it when I find it.
Not your exact machine, but I work on F2690 and F3680 at work. They have a neutral switch on the hst pedal, a real pain to get to, a PTO switch on the PTO lever and a seat switch. I've never heard of the throttle switch.
If I had one handy I'd take some pictures for you, might point you in the right direction. I also looked on the Kubota site for your model, I couldn't find any switches in the breakdowns.
If I had one handy I'd take some pictures for you, might point you in the right direction. I also looked on the Kubota site for your model, I couldn't find any switches in the breakdowns.
Found this on my phone, was replacing the hydro cooler and lines. I have circled the PTO plug in yellow. You can get to it without removing the floor pan. This is a F3680.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I assume the throttle switch is really the switch on the hydrostatic foot pedal.
Correct. I'm not sure what it looks like or how to fix it. I just know it doesn't start with the key, but starts with the screwdriver method so I assumed one of the safety switches was shorting but I'm not sure how to correct the issue
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Try this:
Turn and hold the key in start position (tractor won’t crank)
Move the HST pedal slowly forward and backwards and see if there is a position where the tractor will crank.
Try wiggling any lever that may have a safety switch on it while holding key in start position.
If any allowed tractor to crank then you know which switch to clean, adjust or replace
Turn and hold the key in start position (tractor won’t crank)
Move the HST pedal slowly forward and backwards and see if there is a position where the tractor will crank.
Try wiggling any lever that may have a safety switch on it while holding key in start position.
If any allowed tractor to crank then you know which switch to clean, adjust or replace
I tried the neutral, pto and the pedal and nothing so it must not be a safety switch. Do you have other ideas? I can look up how to test the solenoid if that is the issue. I'm just not sure where to look next.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Well that eliminates switches that are maladjusted but not any failed switches.
If you can locate the switches and bypass one switch at a time that can identify the bad switch when it does crank.
I think I would see how much voltage is actually getting to the starter solenoid from the key switch. Take the small wire off the starter solenoid and see how much voltage to ground is there when the key is turned to start. There are relay kits that can boost the voltage if it is lower than about 12 to 11 volts.
If there is zero voltage on the wire that would indicate some safety switch not allowing any voltage.
If you can locate the switches and bypass one switch at a time that can identify the bad switch when it does crank.
I think I would see how much voltage is actually getting to the starter solenoid from the key switch. Take the small wire off the starter solenoid and see how much voltage to ground is there when the key is turned to start. There are relay kits that can boost the voltage if it is lower than about 12 to 11 volts.
If there is zero voltage on the wire that would indicate some safety switch not allowing any voltage.
I would check the voltage with the wire connected. That will provide a more accurate voltage with the load on it. I have seen instances where the connection is so poor that it would show voltage with no load, but put a load on it and the voltage drops or disappears.
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