Filling some property, So far just using bucket on LX2610. I only have 30 hours of experience. Would a back blade be a helpful implement? Or should I just keep using the bucket.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Best method to properly grade fresh fill?
- Thread starter Jack@Northeast
- Start date
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Oh my....box blade 100% in my book!
Can be set to dig or just smooth...
Can pull or push fore-and-aft...
Can move fill around as needed...
Can be set to dig or just smooth...
Can pull or push fore-and-aft...
Can move fill around as needed...
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Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Agree on the box blade. Then to really smooth, find an old chain link fence gate and use it as a drag. It will break up dirt clods and leave the ground nice and smooth.
For the initial work you’re doing I personally think the loader is fine. You might want to consider a tooth bar even though it’s not needed for what you’re doing, it does help protect the bottom lip of the bucket and make it stronger and less likely to bend.
After that no argument that the box bladeis very handy, as is a rear blade and a landscape rake.
On top of that don’t forget that if you don’t already have it, you need to add top & tilt to the three point hitch, so that you get maximum functionality when you use the three-point attachments…
like many of us, I have all of these...you will too eventually I bet!
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Jack - - - that looks like dumped fill material with some "stuff" in it? Ditch cleanings?
It will likely settle in an inconsistent fashion as roots, etc. decompose, and various types of materials (sand, silt, clay) pack in.
Looks like done in large quantities 6+ feet deep on the left side of your picture, where compaction in small lifts is not possible.
Only point it out as your grade may not end up where you started. Compaction of the fill on the left side of your picture would not be productive, as it will only work in the first 6-12" at best. Could be an exciting ride on a roller on/near that slope, too.....
It will likely settle in an inconsistent fashion as roots, etc. decompose, and various types of materials (sand, silt, clay) pack in.
Looks like done in large quantities 6+ feet deep on the left side of your picture, where compaction in small lifts is not possible.
Only point it out as your grade may not end up where you started. Compaction of the fill on the left side of your picture would not be productive, as it will only work in the first 6-12" at best. Could be an exciting ride on a roller on/near that slope, too.....
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As usual, getting more complicated than I was expecting. But I always manage to underestimate projects.... Great adviceFor the initial work you’re doing I personally think the loader is fine. You might want to consider a tooth bar even though it’s not needed for what you’re doing, it does help protect the bottom lip of the bucket and make it stronger and less likely to bend.
After that no argument that the box bladeis very handy, as is a rear blade and a landscape rake.
On top of that don’t forget that if you don’t already have it, you need to add top & tilt to the three point hitch, so that you get maximum functionality when you use the three-point attachments…
like many of us, I have all of these...you will too eventually I bet!
Good point. The dump trucks just drop and go and I push it into place. Im just leveling a play area so nothing fancy. I didn't think of compacting. Just letting the rain and triaxle dumps do the compacting. Your advice is well taken and a lot to consider, but I don't think I will be that professional about the job. I definitely underestimated the detailsJack - - - that looks like dumped fill material with some "stuff" in it? Ditch cleanings?
It will likely settle in an inconsistent fashion as roots, etc. decompose, and various types of materials (sand, silt, clay) pack in.
Looks like done in large quantities 6+ feet deep on the left side of your picture, where compaction in small lifts is not possible.
Only point it out as your grade may not end up where you started. Compaction of the fill on the left side of your picture would not be productive, as it will only work in the first 6-12" at best. Could be an exciting ride on a roller on/near that slope, too.....
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
My vote is to definitely use a box blade. I’ve known operators that could do incredible things with just a loader on a skid steer or tractor, but that takes quite a bit of skill and practice. For a first project, I’d definitely recommend the box blade. Before I got a boxblade I had many hours on a tractor but it was in an ag setting: plows, discs, towing trailers, etc. which wasn’t really applicable to grading work. I had just a little experience with a back blade. My first box blade job was our private road and three short driveways. Took a little bit to figure it out but I was happy with the end result and was getting pretty efficient with it after a couple of hours. Hydraulic top and side link would have helped quite a lot but didn’t have that until later.
I wish I had before pics of the road. It was W shaped with grass in the center when I started.
For an inexperienced operator without a trainer on hand, the box blade is pretty easy to figure out and get good results efficiently without a steep learning curve.
I wish I had before pics of the road. It was W shaped with grass in the center when I started.
For an inexperienced operator without a trainer on hand, the box blade is pretty easy to figure out and get good results efficiently without a steep learning curve.
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Another vote for the box blade. Also if you have a partially deep area to fill doing the project in stages can help, let it pack down for a few weeks then add more. If it’s not a urgent project that is.
doing something similar to expand my driveway. After putting in 30 yards I built a rough stone wall with boulders & rocks picked from the property. Driving over it packed things down and I’m going to get some more fill in a week or two.
doing something similar to expand my driveway. After putting in 30 yards I built a rough stone wall with boulders & rocks picked from the property. Driving over it packed things down and I’m going to get some more fill in a week or two.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
You're doing GREAT with just the bucket ! No 'need' for a box blade,unless you have the cash and can FIND one for sale The BIG issue is to be sure to tamp down the fill in 'lifts',say 6-12" each. At the very least drive over it all north-south ,then east-west to 'pack' the fill down.
There's implements and tools for every job,but by using what you have, you get to KNOW your tractor very ,very well. eventually 'muscle memory' kicks in and operations become second nature.
If you want another toy for 'fill and grade',get a small dozer.......far better than any box blade..
There's implements and tools for every job,but by using what you have, you get to KNOW your tractor very ,very well. eventually 'muscle memory' kicks in and operations become second nature.
If you want another toy for 'fill and grade',get a small dozer.......far better than any box blade..
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
No doubt a small dozer is better than a box blade. The rather enormous cost difference between a box blade and small dozer is a concern for quite a few people unless it’s a commercial operation where the dozer is generating money. I’m sure my little road project would have been much easier with a decent sized motor grader. Price of a decent sized motor grader left me using a box scrape.
Hmmm, almost exactly what I'm doing. I won't be installing any walls though. I'll just grade it out to a final slope. Thanks for the advice!
Yes, for sure. I have a contractor that offed to do final grade with a small dozer. I was just trying to minimize or eliminate that final step.
I would drive over it with my beater and daily driver pick up truck. Heavier than the tractor and fully depreciated. All while enjoying my Led Zeppelin CD boxed set. Might even load some of those big rocks into the bed for added weight and compaction. A Scotsman would try to sell those "landscaping rocks" on craigslist.
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NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
If you’ve been turning turnbuckles for 40 years the awesomeness of hydraulic top link and sidelink for grading work simply can not be overstated.
I have swapped the fixed side link on the left side in favor of the turnbuckle adjustable link since the sans attachment pic was taken.
I find that when I'm trying to use my tractor as a dozer to push the fill and level it. It works better with the bucket full. You will have better traction and the bucket doesn't seem to dig in as easily. This works for the final grade not the initial move the pile. Then when I have it where I want it I back drag to give it that smooth even surface. The more you work it the better you will get.
I like the idea of using the bucket weight.
When I back drag, I float my bucket but I still have a box grader on my short list, if I can find one.