steering "drag link" B21

[joea]

Is there an alternative to replacing the entire drag link (p/n 32721-57713), which goes for over $200 USD?

The ends look pretty much like "tie rod ends" but are welded and not threaded. One end has annoying play in it. I can live with it till it breaks, at that price.

 

[BruceP]

If you can locate a metric 'end' which will fit.... I am sure a metal-fabricator/welder could modify your existing rod to accept it.

 

[joea]

If you can locate a metric 'end' which will fit.... I am sure a metal-fabricator/welder could modify your existing rod to accept it.

I can weld acceptably. I doubt anyone would PAY me for my work, but . . .

I guess I can measure things. If it is a "taper" fit, like most tie rod ends, probably any Asian large sedan or light truck part could work.

 

[twomany]

I have seen on the www video demonstrations of rod end repairs that melt and burn out any plastic and grease, and then fill the ball socket with lead solder, reforming the bearing.
There is some timing required to get the solder to form, but not stick to the ball.

That would seem a good enough approach for a yard tractor. May only last 5 years....;-)

 

[BruceP]

I have seen on the www video demonstrations of rod end repairs that melt and burn out any plastic and grease, and then fill the ball socket with lead solder, reforming the bearing.
There is some timing required to get the solder to form, but not stick to the ball.

That is an interesting concept. Not unlike pouring a babbitt bearing. Instead of using pure lead, one could use babbitt material which is intended to be a bearing. It would be easy enough to use fireclay to plug one end to prevent babbitt leakage as it is poured. As you said, the 'trick' would be preventing the babbitt from sticking to the ball.

Infact, it might be a fun exercize to try to pour a a new socket for the ball joint.... if that does not work out, move on to welding on a replacement.

...there is always the $200 new part if all else fails