BX2200 Issue Starting

[priesjd]

I was using my tractor yesterday just fine, then today out of the blue it won't start properly.

I turned the ignition to the on position, there was the typical clicking sound as expected. I turned the key slightly more to warm the glow plugs which went as expected. Then when I turned the key to start the tractor, it turned over a single time and I lost all power. I found that the 30 amp slow burn fuse blew.

I went out and bought a new one thinking it was a fluke, but after trying to start again, it turned over once and blew the fuse.

So far I've tested the battery which looks to be fine. I cleaned the connections as well. I'm assuming it's a short somewhere along the bw wire that travels through the two safety switches, ending at the starter. Is there a way to determine if the ignition switch itself is the problem? If it's a short somewhere along this path, how can I trace it down?

I picked up a multimeter but I only get power on the R cable which makes sense since it powers the other connectors in the switch (I think?)

Side note... this is my first post. Hello!

 

[eserv]

I was using my tractor yesterday just fine, then today out of the blue it won't start properly.

I turned the ignition to the on position, there was the typical clicking sound as expected. I turned the key slightly more to warm the glow plugs which went as expected. Then when I turned the key to start the tractor, it turned over a single time and I lost all power. I found that the 30 amp slow burn fuse blew.

I went out and bought a new one thinking it was a fluke, but after trying to start again, it turned over once and blew the fuse.

So far I've tested the battery which looks to be fine. I cleaned the connections as well. I'm assuming it's a short somewhere along the bw wire that travels through the two safety switches, ending at the starter. Is there a way to determine if the ignition switch itself is the problem? If it's a short somewhere along this path, how can I trace it down?

I picked up a multimeter but I only get power on the R cable which makes sense since it powers the other connectors in the switch (I think?)

Side note... this is my first post. Hello!

The BW wire that goes through the safety switches is to small to blow the 30a fuse. I would look for a wire worn through somewhere between the starter and the ignition switch that moves and shorts out when the engine is cranking. It seems it is the engine cranking that is causing it to blow. Could be the wire to the glow plugs too.

 

[Roadworthy]

Since the fuse seems to blow when you go to the start position just turn the switch on and see if the fuse blows. Don't worry about starting the engine, you're just trying to solve a problem. If the fuse only blows in the start position then you need to locate a schematic. That way you can determine what circuits get powered in that position. You probably have insulation worn through or chewed on one of the wires shorting all the power to ground. This may or may not be easy to track down.

 

[Henro]

Since the fuse seems to blow when you go to the start position just turn the switch on and see if the fuse blows. Don't worry about starting the engine, you're just trying to solve a problem. If the fuse only blows in the start position then you need to locate a schematic. That way you can determine what circuits get powered in that position. You probably have insulation worn through or chewed on one of the wires shorting all the power to ground. This may or may not be easy to track down.

In addition, since fuses are not cheap (at least for those of us with a bit of Scotch blood), some have rigged up a 12 volt light to use in place of the blown fuse. When the light comes on, you know you are in the problem mode, and the fuse would have blown.

You can move wires (or do other things) and watch the light, and if it goes out when you do something you know you are getting close to the problem source...

Just a thought...

 

[Dave_eng]

In addition, since fuses are not cheap (at least for those of us with a bit of Scotch blood), some have rigged up a 12 volt light to use in place of the blown fuse. When the light comes on, you know you are in the problem mode, and the fuse would have blown.

You can move wires (or do other things) and watch the light, and if it goes out when you do something you know you are getting close to the problem source...

Just a thought...

 

[priesjd]

Thank you for the suggestions!

I replaced the fuse and did some testing. I found that the glow plug is receiving no power when the key is in the preheat position. Oddly enough, the glow plug light is lit when the key is in preheat. I'm new to reading wiring diagrams, but it seems to me like the preheat indicator light should only light when the glow plug is getting power, right?

I went ahead and ordered a new ignition switch as I'm thinking that could be the problem. Upon visual inspection of the glow plug wire, nothing seems obviously wrong on either end... Does this sound like an ignition switch problem to you guys?

 

[Henro]

Henro

In the past you have reminded us that the engine stop solenoid could be wired in one of two possible ways depending upon the engine. The owners' wiring diagram shows the two possible scenarios.

The D905 pull in coil is connected to the starter terminal which is energized by the solenoid when cranking.

If this tractor has the D905 engine, breaking the connection to the stop solenoid while trying to find the reason for the slow blow fuse blowing would show if the stop solenoid is causing the short.

Dave

Yes, the BX2200 is different than the BX1800. The BX2200 (D905) has a dual coil solenoid, the run coil is energized when the key is turned to the on position, and the start coil is energized when the starter motor turns. The run coil is not strong enough to pull the solenoid in to enable the injector pump, but it will hold the solenoid in the run position after the start coil pulls it into the run position.

Easy enough to disconnect the starter solenoid, as the connection is an easily separated plug connection.

I only know this because I went through it with my BX2200 a couple years ago. The electrical drawing for the BX2200/1800 is confusing, and I only came to understand what they are showing after getting help here at OTT.

One caveat is that the last units of the BX2200 that were produces are different and share the wiring of the next model to be produced, I think the BX2230, but do not trust my memory on that model number completely.

 

[Dave_eng]

Yes, the BX2200 is different than the BX1800. The BX2200 (D905) has a dual coil solenoid, the run coil is energized when the key is turned to the on position, and the start coil is energized when the starter motor turns. The run coil is not strong enough to pull the solenoid in to enable the injector pump, but it will hold the solenoid in the run position after the start coil pulls it into the run position.

Easy enough to disconnect the starter solenoid, as the connection is an easily separated plug connection.

I only know this because I went through it with my BX2200 a couple years ago. The electrical drawing for the BX2200/1800 is confusing, and I only came to understand what they are showing after getting help here at OTT.

One caveat is that the last units of the BX2200 that were produces are different and share the wiring of the next model to be produced, I think the BX2230, but do not trust my memory on that model number completely.

Henro

I should have looked more closely. I do not think the slow blow fuse feeds the stop solenoid.

Dave

 

[eserv]

Henro

I should have looked more closely. I do not think the slow blow fuse feeds the stop solenoid.

Dave

It feeds the hold but not the pull-in winding. I suppose there could be a short inside it causing the amps to be too high but it is a long shot.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

I had an odd issue with my 30A fuse blowing at times on my BX2200.

I found that the way my throttle cable and ignition switch were routed the cable would rub on the wiring. It eventually wore through the wire insulation and started causing issues.

It is easy enough to check for. You can just pull the battery panel/cover and then look up underneath at the cable and wiring.

Probably a long shot, but it happened to mine.

 

[GeoHorn]

OR…. an internally-shorted starter will behave this way.