So I bought a BX2660 used and found out the left anti scalp wheel and the hole that holds it to the deck are gone. I can buy the wheel assembly with the pin but the round tube it inserts into is gone. I was thinking have someone weld a round tube on to the piece that's left? Circled part below. The frame of it is still there. Just looks like the hole part is gone. Any suggestions or anyone else have this happen? It apparently happened on the right side too because that looks welded back on.
Anti Scalp wheel fix help
- Thread starter daves31
- Start date
YUP -- The tractors are built like tanks.... the mowdecks are made from poorly recycled steel which rusts out quickly. I spent an entire summer with my mowdeck on sawhorses welding patches (and wheel holders) on it.
I fear you will have trouble locating the proper diameter 'tube' to weld on there.
Perhaps you can find a 'donor' mowdeck from which you can steal the necessary parts.
I fear you will have trouble locating the proper diameter 'tube' to weld on there.
Perhaps you can find a 'donor' mowdeck from which you can steal the necessary parts.
You should be able to find some tubing with the correct ID but don’t go any less than .1875 thick wall. Match it up to the other side for the pin holes and height off the ground. If yer not handy with A welder I’m sure you could find someone to fix it up for you. Kind of a simple repair.
my RKC 60-32 deck wheel mount in the same position tore off with only 50 hrs on it. I beefed it up with some 3/16 steel welded to the deck shell and it’s been almost 400:hrs and still attached.
my RKC 60-32 deck wheel mount in the same position tore off with only 50 hrs on it. I beefed it up with some 3/16 steel welded to the deck shell and it’s been almost 400:hrs and still attached.
So Bruce you are saying troll my neighborhood looking for neighbors tractors that sit outside all year round?
I did find one on ebay but it was still $400. I just moved to an 8 acre farm so didn't get a welder yet. Looks like I will be needing to.Yeah that was my worry. Finding something thick enough. Don't have a welder yet but I have a weld shop half a mile away. Will swing by there and see if they have some stock.
What could possibly be so difficult to find tube of the necessary diameter? What I.D. and O.D. is the correct tube? McMaster-Carr sells virtually every possibility.
Wow didn't know about that place. They do have everything. Size is 1 1/2" OD 1" ID and 2 1/4" long. So thinking probably this. They do have stainless too but not sure how that would weld?
Welding on galvanized material gives off fumes that in excess cause health issues, so it might be better not to use galvanized material. Weldor will grind it off in the area of the weld, but that will take more time and probably cost you more.
Standard uncoated steel should be fine in that application, especially if painted.
You can weld stainless steel to mild steel, it actually welds quite nicely! But it is not stainless steel anymore after you weld it so why spend the extra money?
When welding galvanized steel it’s best to grind/scrape away the zinc in the area to be welded, mostly for the ability to insure good penetration but also to avoid the fumes associated with “metal fume fever” …. a short-term flu-like sickness if you breathe the fumes. If you weld galvanized steel do not hover over the weldment and keep your head in clear air to avoid the fumes. (It’s temporary illness and goes away in a couple days.). Hopefully everyone who welds avoids the fumes of ALL welding operations…NONE of it is good for you.
If you grind-away the zinc then you can use ”cold galvanize” paint (Rustoleum is my favorite) to re-coat the area after welding and wire-brushing the flux off.
Better yet….use plain steel and then paint it with Rustoleum.
If you grind-away the zinc then you can use ”cold galvanize” paint (Rustoleum is my favorite) to re-coat the area after welding and wire-brushing the flux off.
Better yet….use plain steel and then paint it with Rustoleum.