Summit electric rear remote kits, anyone used them?

[Nicfin36]

I was interested in adding rear remotes at some point to my machine, as I have none at all. I explored simply running a line from my 3rd function and swapping lines when needed, a factory remote kit, diverters....and then on YouTube, I see a video about an electric rear remote kit from Summit that looked interesting. It can be had in a 2, 3, or 4 remote kit. From the YouTube video, it appears this kit is targeted towards Deere compact tractors.

The install looks simple enough. I already have a line ran to the back for my backhoe. I know the chances are very low anyone has done this. But, if anyone has, I would like to hear from them. Comments on what others might think or have done for a solution are certainly welcome as well.

Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors (Two Spool, Three Spool, Four Spool)

Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors (Two Spool, Three Spool, Four Spool) Free Shipping

summit-hydraulics.com

 

[mikester]

I haven't used this particular kit but electric remotes are a great idea IMHO.

 

[hedgerow]

Looks like a pretty handy kit. I haven't used it but did something similar on a JD 4840 years ago when we upgraded planter and needed more remotes. Put a power beyond on the tractor and some electric valves like this kit has and it worked well. I may give this kit a look if I decide to add rear remotes to my MX-6000.

 

[Nicfin36]

It does look somewhat simple and straightforward. I have been thinking about a hydraulic top link and perhaps hydraulic side link. I'm not very knowledgeable about tractor hydraulics. My only concern is hooking into the power beyond and knowing I will have an adequate return flow with this kit as it is my understanding not having fluid properly returning will damage the tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Electric actuated valves work fine for some things. IMO, they are not the optimum valve for making fine or gradual adjustments and are pretty much out for any specialty operation such as self canceling or float featured valves. Not the best way to go for operating a top & tilt set IMO.

The Summit valves are relatively economical and do work for controlling hydraulics.
Just not the preferred method for many tractor related operations.

Just my 2 cents

 

[Nicfin36]

Electric actuated valves work fine for some things. IMO, they are not the optimum valve for making fine or gradual adjustments and are pretty much out for any specialty operation such as self canceling or float featured valves. Not the best way to go for operating a top & tilt set IMO.

The Summit valves are relatively economical and do work for controlling hydraulics.
Just not the preferred method for many tractor related operations.

Just my 2 cents

While I haven't committed to anything, I only wished I had made the dealer install remotes on my tractor when I asked. I faltered when he basically said they were too expensive to be worth it Yeah, well, I know they just didn't want to install them. I may look into the factory kit and figure out how to install it myself.

I have read on the need for a float function and tried to wrap my brain around that. I understand it can help on something like a rotary cutter on hills. But, my logic is.....a standard top link doesn't float, so is it really all the important? (That's just my logic, don't know if it is right or wrong.) I also realize I could use flow restrictors if the movement is too fast for the electric type.

I have actually thought about buying just a top link cylinder, two long hoses, fittings including flow restrictors and just using my 3rd function and see what I think. At worst, if I go to something more sophisticated to run the top link cylinder, I will have just have two spare long hoses, as I can use the other stuff.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

While I haven't committed to anything, I only wished I had made the dealer install remotes on my tractor when I asked. I faltered when he basically said they were too expensive to be worth it Yeah, well, I know they just didn't want to install them. I may look into the factory kit and figure out how to install it myself.

I have read on the need for a float function and tried to wrap my brain around that. I understand it can help on something like a rotary cutter on hills. But, my logic is.....a standard top link doesn't float, so is it really all the important? (That's just my logic, don't know if it is right or wrong.) I also realize I could use flow restrictors if the movement is too fast for the electric type.

I have actually thought about buying just a top link cylinder, two long hoses, fittings including flow restrictors and just using my 3rd function and see what I think. At worst, if I go to something more sophisticated to run the top link cylinder, I will have just have two spare long hoses, as I can use the other stuff.

Based on your logic, why have any hydraulic links on the 3pt at all? Do you "really need them"? After all, if the implement really needs to be adjusted, just stop and do it manually. After all, how often do you "really need to make 3pt link adjustments anyway"?

And as far as slowing the flow with flow restrictors, absolutely. And that can-will get you by, but still not the same as feathering the controls. I have flow restrictors and still feather the controls. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

Again, not that the std electric valves don't work, they do. And you don't "need" the float feature. Most people get by without it everyday. But that doesn't mean that when the occasion presents itself that it isn't nicer to have the float feature to finish the task.

I know that when I grade my drive, I use the float feature for my side link every single time. But that is just me with the conditions-circumstances that I happen to have.

The std electric valves just are not the ideal control for grading purposes in my opinion.

Again, just my 2 cents.

 

[Nicfin36]

Based on your logic, why have any hydraulic links on the 3pt at all? Do you "really need them"? After all, if the implement really needs to be adjusted, just stop and do it manually. After all, how often do you "really need to make 3pt link adjustments anyway"?

I was going to say in my last post, no, I don't need them. It is more of a want for convenience and time. Heck, I could say I don't even need my tractor if I really got down to it. It is a pain in the rear to adjust them. My 45 year old John Deere tractor seems easier to adjust than those on the Kubota. I even have a turn handle leveling box on it. I was thinking about fabricating a leveling box for the Kubota and using the 3rd function for a hydraulic top link. I would probably be content with that at this point in life.

 

[MidwestMike]

As I mentioned in another thread, when I decided to open up the hydraulics for a grapple I figured I might as well add the rears at the same time. Afterwards I was told they were working on a kit to do the same thing I was doing.

They do move the cylinders fast, we'll see if I can feather the switch OK, or will need to reduce flow. But it was a good move for simplicity.

 

[Nicfin36]

I appreciate the insight. I often take a long time to figure out what I want to do...sometimes that is good and sometimes not. And like you said above, it seems like kits are becoming available that did not exist before.