AC/Heat issues
- Thread starter fruitcakesa
- Start date
kubotafreak
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Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
What was the lowest low side pressure reading and ambient air temp? Does the clutch stop spinning when it starts blowing hot? If the clutch does let go, does it reengage in a few seconds?
BAP
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Instead of going under the seat, look for the heater lines coming off the engine block, feel them after the engine warms up and make sure that they are not getting hot. If they are, the easiest way to fix it is to cut the feed line and put a shut off valve in it and keep it shut off during the summer. I have done that to several tractors over the years.
I finally got back on the tractor after a month hiatus and have done nothing regarding the A/C but when I turn on the fan now, it blows hot air all the time in A/C and fan only mode. Turning the temp knob does nothing.
I sometime have to give the climate control panel a rap to get the fan to vent through the proper opening. If I don't, it seems as if the blowing air is dissipating somewhere behind the console
I sometime have to give the climate control panel a rap to get the fan to vent through the proper opening. If I don't, it seems as if the blowing air is dissipating somewhere behind the console
Kubota's a/c sucks! I have a M105X and a M8200 and both of them has had more of there share of a/c problems. Everything is undersized.
First look at your softball size mickey mouse compressor to see if it is turning . You need to put some guages on it. You are probally so low on pressure that your compressor is not coming on.
First look at your softball size mickey mouse compressor to see if it is turning . You need to put some guages on it. You are probally so low on pressure that your compressor is not coming on.
I agree older Model Kubota's such as M4900/M8200 have inferior, too small condensers. My M7040 AC cools much better than it's predecessor M4900
What I am finding odd is that even when it is fan only with no A/C on, it still just blows hot air.
It's possible the AC/heating door isn't switching to AC or heater coolant valve isn't shutting coolant off.
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Have you checked to be sure you have no blown fuses therefore not supplying power to servo doors?
People gripe about a/c but it's really a subject that is, well, subjective.
Some people require the a/c to be 65 degrees in the cabin within 10 seconds of starting the engine. They're the same people who keep the house at 70 or lower. Then you've got folks who are happy at 78-80 degrees, like me. And my electric bill is dirt cheap which allows us to do other things. The good thing is, with the a/c at 78 or 79 when you go out in 90+ degree heat, it doesn't shock you nearly as bad. Then when you've been outside for 30 minutes 1 hour 5 hours whatever, then go back in, you don't want to go back out, period.
....anyway, we have to remember what powers the a/c compressor. The engine. It takes horsepower to run the compressor. The manufacturer could easily put a larger compressor on it, which then requires a larger condenser and possibly larger evaporator with more airflow capability (larger fan). This all takes up space, weight, and as importantly, horsepower. So now you have folks griping about their 70hp tractor with excellent a/c not having enough power with the a/c on.
I've been through it with the RTV1100. Constant complaints for a while. You can't please 100% of the people 100% of the time, it's simply impossible.
yes the older systems were a little more maintenance intensive and sensitive to lack of maintenance. When the condenser gets plugged on the older systems, it taxes the compressor, the compressor being a piston type doesn't like that and self-destructs slowly over time, and people don't remember when it worked good, only when it works bad--so the complaint was "it ain't worked right since the day I got it".
Some people require the a/c to be 65 degrees in the cabin within 10 seconds of starting the engine. They're the same people who keep the house at 70 or lower. Then you've got folks who are happy at 78-80 degrees, like me. And my electric bill is dirt cheap which allows us to do other things. The good thing is, with the a/c at 78 or 79 when you go out in 90+ degree heat, it doesn't shock you nearly as bad. Then when you've been outside for 30 minutes 1 hour 5 hours whatever, then go back in, you don't want to go back out, period.
....anyway, we have to remember what powers the a/c compressor. The engine. It takes horsepower to run the compressor. The manufacturer could easily put a larger compressor on it, which then requires a larger condenser and possibly larger evaporator with more airflow capability (larger fan). This all takes up space, weight, and as importantly, horsepower. So now you have folks griping about their 70hp tractor with excellent a/c not having enough power with the a/c on.
I've been through it with the RTV1100. Constant complaints for a while. You can't please 100% of the people 100% of the time, it's simply impossible.
yes the older systems were a little more maintenance intensive and sensitive to lack of maintenance. When the condenser gets plugged on the older systems, it taxes the compressor, the compressor being a piston type doesn't like that and self-destructs slowly over time, and people don't remember when it worked good, only when it works bad--so the complaint was "it ain't worked right since the day I got it".
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Then I would focus on getting the heater hoses out of the picture by using a valve or a bypass hose so that you can see if that resolves the hot air problem or not. If you still have hot air after that then worry with the AC system.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
If I was troubleshooting it then I would get a length of hose and look for where the hose leaves the engine block to the heater core and where the returning hose connects to the block. Remove those two ends and connect your hose in place so there is absolutely no way water can reach the heater core.
You will need to see if water needs to flow through the heater circuit but that is doubtful. If the bypass solves the issue then determine the hose that is the inlet to heater core and place the valve in that hose near the engine but out of any harms way from rotating parts and so it can allow everything to close up the hood.
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Fruitcake, go to the hardware store and buy a shut off valve and 2 hose barb nipples to put in each end of it. Then cut one of the heater hoses near the engine block and put it in the hose. Doesn’t really matter which one as all you are doing is stopping the circulation of coolant through the lines. I have done several of these on different brands of tractors. To avoid loosing coolant when cutting, pinch off the line with some vise grips.
dvcochran
Active member
Equipment
Kubota M9000, New Holland TN90, Deere 2640, Vermeer 504N, Vermeer 504SI, more
This an important diagnostic. As other have said, if the heater control valve is malfunctioning both hoses will be at the same temperature as the engine (around 195°). If this is the case coolant/antifreeze is getting to the heater core and heating the air. It is better to put the manual shutoff in the incoming hose but not absolutely necessary. It is a loop to as long as the flow is stopped it will work.
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