Hydraulic leak - Factory or Dealer to blame?

[whitetiger]

Update: I found the leak. It's on the back side of 060 in this diagram:
View attachment 60736
It's probably one of the 0-rings (070) which I plan to order.
BUT - - in the meantime,
Does anyone know the torque specs of the 12mm bolts that hold the block on (seen below) ?
View attachment 60737
Those would be 4 12mm bolts that hold on the distribution block (1st diagram) or a cap if no loader is installed (2nd diagram).
I am currently at 23 ft/lb and they're still spinning, but I don't want to push it and strip them.

Thanks in advance.

Here is a page from the installation instructions.

 

[RickyBobby]

Just bought the same tractor and loader. The aluminum hydraulic block is installed by the dealer. From the factory the side of the hydraulic outlet on the tractor is covered with a steel block off plate. Your owners manual has a very clear description of that. The dealer installs the loader which ships separate from the tractor. He removes that plate and installs the aluminum block which comes with the loader package. Fixing a leak there is not warranty - its a shop come back for deflective workmanship by his service people. If the attaching bolts are tight they likely pinched one or more of the o-rings.

Dan

I just found this out today. First chance to give it a real inspection.
I had thought that the leak was coming from one of the connections on the back side, but it is coming from the o-ring seals within the hydraulic block and I did notice the same thing about the cap vs. block in the owners manual.
So it does seem as though it's the dealer's fault.

Now it looks like I have one of two choices: Argue, have it picked up and delivered. Argue more because they will likely blame a defective block/outlet/o-ring
Or - spend $4.20 plus shipping and fix it myself in about 10 minutes.
Being as stubborn as I am, the first option is actually a consideration for me.

 

[RickyBobby]

Here is a page from the installation instructions.

Wow. Thanks. This forum is full of great people. I really appreciate this.

 

[Dusty Dan]

Just want to add a note to this thread. In my opinion it is far better to use a sealant on leaking threads rather than going gorilla attempting to tighten. I use Loctite 545 Pneumatic/Hydraulic Thread Sealant. Taking the joint apart also provides a chance to inspect.

 

[Nicfin36]

Can they not send someone out rather than you bringing it to them?

 

[lugbolt]

Sometimes that happens. Depends on how busy the tech(s) is/are. Also depends on the tech. Some techs are paid via commission only. Those guys won't do anything without getting paid somehow and I kinda don't blame them. They're usually the ones who know what's going on too. The hourly techs are generally setup, delivery, floaters, etc. They can oftentimes go on a service call but do they know what they're doing? And therein lies a question....

O-rings are cheap, and easy to replace. Worth the headache to wait for a tech to show up and do it or DIY and be done? BTDT on both sides of the aisle (tech and customer).

I'd imagine the OP's issue is solved by now judging by the date of the posts.

 

[Nicfin36]

I'd imagine the OP's issue is solved by now judging by the date of the posts.

Well shoot, I didn't notice that.

 

[gs1s]

Update: I found the leak. It's on the back side of 060 in this diagram:
View attachment 60736
It's probably one of the 0-rings (070) which I plan to order.
BUT - - in the meantime,
Does anyone know the torque specs of the 12mm bolts that hold the block on (seen below) ?
View attachment 60737
Those would be 4 12mm bolts that hold on the distribution block (1st diagram) or a cap if no loader is installed (2nd diagram).
I am currently at 23 ft/lb and they're still spinning, but I don't want to push it and strip them.

Thanks in advance.

Hi guys. First post here after lurking for a while. New (to me) L2501 with FEL and 35 hours was delivered Friday. First tractor for me and I’m excited.

After parking it on concrete last night I saw some fluid on the ground near the hydraulic block today. It is coming from the vicinity of the o-rings (070) in the first picture above. After putting a wrench on everything in the area, the bolt (060) in the second picture took a half turn or so without much effort. I’m going to watch to see if that did it, but will try the o-rings next.

Do you guys know how to access them? Can I disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the outside and access that way or must I do it from the inside (back of the block)? And how much fluid should I expect to lose?

Thanks in advance!