Keep changing my mind + pricing

[catatonic]

Good morning!

Over the last year or so I have been considering buying a tractor. At first considered older used tractors but found it hard to find one equipped with a FEL. With the way tractors hold value, I believe it’s a better choice for me to buy new. For reference, have never owned a tractor.

Upon starting my search I was originally dead set on buying a John Deere 1025R. Since then I have flip flopped a few times. Below is the main part of what I will be using the tractor for:
1. Clearing very hilly/steep land that is currently wooded. Grading (at least assisting with grading) same area with fill. 2 acres total.
2. Maintaining approx 1/4 mile of dirt road and driveway.
3. Once above said property is less wooded planning on running a flail or rotary mower to keep brush down.
4. Looking at running rear PTO implements such as stump grinders and chippers.

Now that you have a better picture, I switched my thinking from the 1025R to a LX2610SU as I felt I got more tractor for the buck due to me feeling I have no use and will not use a mid mount PTO. My concern however is that going with the larger tractor I will be making it more risky for myself on very steep terrain, though I don’t know that to be fact. I had a salesman that priced out the LX tell me that it would actually be more stable with loaded tires because of the width vs something like a BX. The upgrade from a subcompact to compact in my mind makes sense for FEL lifting and what seems to be higher rear PTO output.

I am open to pretty much any machine, but have really looked at the BX, LX SU, and L in the 25hp configurations.

Would I regret the larger tractor on the land I will be working?
As far as pricing goes, typically what is the spread from BX (I’m guessing for comparisons sake that a 26hp marked BX would be the most comparable) vs an LX SU model or the L2501?
Based on your experience what tractor would you choose and why?

 

[MOOTS]

Where in the SE are you? What type oh hills, rolling or like the Rockies?

I don’t believe you’ll be disappointed with either of your options. I had an LX and just sold it, GREAT tractor.

 

[jimh406]

It seems most people think larger tractors are more stable properly ballasted not less stable especially since some models can have use rear spacers and/or have adjustable wheel offsets. Good Works Tractors sells a dual rear wheel setup for the 1025R as well.

If the clearing is going to be one time thing, you could rent a miniexcavator or skidsteer with front mounted mower to do the initial work and then go with whatever size tractor you want. Otherwise, you can probably make use of a third function kit and grapple on a tractor with the biggest difference being how much you can lift and do at once.

Good Works Tractors has videos comparing the B2601, B2650, and 1025R. The Bs are quite a bit larger. As you probably know, the B2650 is very close to the same as a LX2610.

Finally, you should probably go drive a few and get a feel for the size difference.

 

[catatonic]

Where in the SE are you? What type oh hills, rolling or like the Rockies?

I don’t believe you’ll be disappointed with either of your options. I had an LX and just sold it, GREAT tractor.

Appalachian mountain range area of the southeast.

 

[catatonic]

It seems most people think larger tractors are more stable properly ballasted not less stable especially since some models can have use rear spacers and/or have adjustable wheel offsets. Good Works Tractors sells a dual rear wheel setup for the 1025R as well.

If the clearing is going to be one time thing, you could rent a miniexcavator or skidsteer with front mounted mower to do the initial work and then go with whatever size tractor you want. Otherwise, you can probably make use of a third function kit and grapple on a tractor with the biggest difference being how much you can lift and do at once.

Good Works Tractors has videos comparing the B2601, B2650, and 1025R. The Bs are quite a bit larger. As you probably know, the B2650 is very close to the same as a LX2610.

Finally, you should probably go drive a few and get a feel for the size difference.

I had intended on both rear tire fill along with OEM or equivalent wheel spacers.

Unfortunately it’s not a short term project, I’ve considered rentals but it’s certainly not going to make sense as I would probably get close to a years worth of payments on equipment I own in rental fees. I have been and still am clearing by hand.

A 3rd function kit and grapple would probably be purchased immediately with the tractor along with a box blade. Anything I cut now has to be with a brush cutter until I fall some more trees and actually have room to maneuver any form of equipment.

I’ve driven both the LX and a 1025R the 1 series and BX just feel like a chunky lawn mower. The LX is obviously more substantial but it’s certainly hard to tell how it would handle when it’s on a flat dealer lot.

 

[JustinB60]

If you buy the Lx2610 SU make sure it comes with the “larger tires” and have them loaded and then have the rear tire spacers installed and it should be incredibly stable on hills if you ballast and control the tractor properly (keep loads low, etc). I’ve heard a lot of people say they felt their BX tractors were not stable on hills but their B2601 or LX2610 feel much more stable.

 

[UpNorthMI]

It seems that you have plans for some real work for this tractor in rough terrain and also plans for stump grinding and chipping. I am going to recommend a L2501, the extra weight of the machine will be useful in many of the tasks you describe. While you are at the dealer take a look at one, take a look at the rear end to understand the difference to a B or LX series. The L is much more substantial.

The increased weight will help with box blade use and other ground work, if you are going to be stump grinding the weight will help.

Good luck selecting a new tractor it's an exciting time.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I have the LX2610 SU, and it is very stable - with ballasted big R4 tires. We have a few steep areas on our property in North Georgia, especially the driveway. Another important issue is ground clearance, and the sub-compacts do not have enough for many jobs. When I refreshed our steep driveway, I would bucket multiple loads of crusher gravel from the top to an area always dumping further up the drive.. Afterwards, I could easily drive over the mounds to spread the gravel down the drive with the box blade. If I had a BX, I think I would have had to have done it in much smaller increments or try to push backwards down the drive with the box blade.

The L2501 would be another great choice. For me, it was between the LX 2610 SU and the L2501. I preferred the operator's station of the LX - especially the location of the loader stick. More than 40 tons of crusher gravel later (driveway and tractor shed site), I know I made the right choice for me.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

across the street is a 2 acre parcel ,so I can SEE the area involved....
options, always think of options...
It's not that big, so it'd only take a day, a long one, for a guy with a 'trim' dozer to 'rearrange the terrain'.NOW the 'rough' work is done, ground won't be 'steep and hilly',so you can then pick away at clearing this, moving that, grading here, there...on your own time and pace,safely. While a bigger macine should get the job done quicker, it can't turn as short as smaller machines,especially if TREES are involved !
I know the dozer is an up front expense BUT if YOU roll over your new tractor and break a leg or arm(best case) ,YOU won't be doing ANYTHING for weeks !

 

[JimmyJazz]

I took delivery two weeks ago on a new B2601. My prior rig used for mowing was a Steiner. These are made for hills . Low center of gravity, wide stance, smaller wide tires. My property is hilly and I was concerned initially about the stability of the Kubota. I have now mowed, moved dirt and graded a bit with it. I posted after my first "ride" how I nearly had to change my underwear. The trick on hills is to use low range and 4 wheel drive. Also, face the hill head on not at an angle. The B2601 is a very useful tool ,Its not as inherently stable as a Steiner but you can alter your methods to make it work. I highly recommend the B2601.

 

[PaulL]

The normal reasons for choosing an LX over the L are that:
- You need a mid-PTO. You don't
- You want a factory cab. You haven't mentioned a cab
- You need a lighter machine because you're working on the lawn/around the house/you need to trailer it
- You like the operator station and some of the comforts more

I don't think any of those apply to you, other than maybe the last (which only you can assess).

Conversely, the L is just more metal for the money. It's a bigger engine with more torque, more weight in the rear end, although the specs don't make it obvious it lifts a bit more weight to any given height (it lifts about the same weight but to higher - so to the same height it lifts a bit more).

For the tasks you're talking about, I think the L would be a little better. You're doing real tractor work, and I'd guess as you aim to level out the land you'll be working the machine pretty hard.

But either machine would be excellent, as would a B2601. Certainly compared to doing the work by hand. You'll definitely need a grapple if you're clearing trees then levelling the ground that's left behind.

I'd also consider initially getting it without ballast (but with spacers) then add ballast to the tires only if you feel you need it. Ballast does add stability, but it also adds a lot of weight. Everyone's steep hills are different than the next person. I take my B2601 on a reasonably steep side slope with unballasted tires and it's never given any indication of tipping. It feels very very uncomfortable - I always creep along because I'm convinced I'm close to tipping, but when I stop and rock the tractor it shows no lightness at all - so basically my willingness to drive on the slope is the limitation, not tractor capability. An LX or L would be substantially more stable. Having said that, there are people who drive on far steeper slopes than I, and everyone will describe their slopes as "steep", which really tells you nothing.

Having said that, a benefit of ballasted tires is less need to ballast the rear of the machine when lifting logs on the grapple - you should really ballast the rear with a weight box or similar anyway, but sometimes you just want to lift something without putting weight on, and ballasted tires definitely help there.