B2650 won’t restart

[Rollover Rudy]

After several hours of seat time yesterday doing land clearing and multiple times turning the engine on and off with no sign of trouble, I turned off the tractor to reattach a rope to the draw bar after it broke. Tried to start back up and nothing.

The key in run position gives me the “click” and shows the red battery and oil warning lights. In the glow plug position, the yellow plug light illuminates with a another faint “click”. When turned to start, nothing. Assuming a safety interlock issue, I checked the seat, PTO, and neutral safety switches visually for damage and proper range of movement. Nothing. I cycled fuses and check for any blown, nothing. That’s as far as my knowledge takes me.

I’ve emailed to have my dealer come and get it, but I’m hoping someone here may have a few ideas to try before I commit to those dollars and down time. Thanks all in advance.

 

[Dave_eng]

I thinking a dead battery.

If your 2650 does not have a cab then likely it has a dynamo for battery charging. A dynamo has low output.

A weak battery, multiple stops and starts soon reveals the battery condition..

If you have the knowledge use jumper cables. If you are not certain you can do much damage.

Better to call one of the tow company's to come and boost you.

Dave

 

[85Hokie]

As Dave mentioned - battery is weak or worse - check cables on battery too.

A jump will tell the story IF that is indeed the problem.

 

[Rollover Rudy]

I should have mentioned I did check the battery cables and contacts. I’ll try jumping it this morning. Thank you.

 

[Rollover Rudy]

Battery was at 92% but i took it too 100%. No joy. Jumped it anyway. No joy. So frustrating as I’m much better with mechanical rather than electrical issues. Only 245 hours on the tractor.

 

[Russell King]

Try holding key in start position and moving the pedal or levers one at a time to get the safety switch to move into the proper position to start"

One may be out of adjustment and you may be able to locate which one

 

[Rollover Rudy]

Yep. Tried that. Nothing. I really do appreciate the suggestions. I feel bad that my first post was a question and not a solution.

 

[Dave_eng]

PTO has not been knocked into ON position has it?

You can jump the starter to rule out the basic problems.

This procedure needs to be done with great care and no short cuts.

Someone knowledgeable needs to be on the seat. Not one of your young kids.

Every safety feature designed into the tractor is being bypassed. You could be run over or end up with a tractor moving with no driver.

The machine needs to be in neutral and the foot brakes applied.

To jump the starter look at the picture below:

Anything metallic can be used. Generally a piece of insulated wire is best.

When you connect the small and large terminals the starter should crank instantly. There may be a small harmless spark as the jump connection is made.

If the starter does not crank instantly, then it is the basics but on a tractor with 245 hours there cannot be much other than the condition of the battery.

Dave

 

[Orangeglow]

Follow Daves instructions in post #8, but before you do that, the key has to be in the run position for the tractor to start. I,m guessing the solenoid under the forward/reverse pedal has either loosened up, or knocked out of position somehow, so that solenoid is not working properly. Have a look for it under the floorboard in the area where the forward/reverse pedal goes thru the floor. In the neutral position, the plunger should be depressed.

 

[sardillim]

After several hours of seat time yesterday doing land clearing and multiple times turning the engine on and off with no sign of trouble, I turned off the tractor to reattach a rope to the draw bar after it broke. Tried to start back up and nothing.

The key in run position gives me the “click” and shows the red battery and oil warning lights. In the glow plug position, the yellow plug light illuminates with a another faint “click”. When turned to start, nothing. Assuming a safety interlock issue, I checked the seat, PTO, and neutral safety switches visually for damage and proper range of movement. Nothing. I cycled fuses and check for any blown, nothing. That’s as far as my knowledge takes me.

I’ve emailed to have my dealer come and get it, but I’m hoping someone here may have a few ideas to try before I commit to those dollars and down time. Thanks all in advance.

The click is the fuel shut off opening. I would check the foot pedal position switch (Under the machine) I just traded in the same model and that switch loosened up and became out of adjustment. just so you know that switch is difficult to get to. If you pull off the rubber floor mat there should be an access cover that makes it a little easier to get at Good luck

 

[Joe Messmer]

The foot pedal switch mentioned does go bad, I just had to replace it on my 3350 last summer ! Switch was like $80.00 and was it ever a bear to replace . I had the exact same symptoms you do only I would replace the fuse and it might start but as soon as I tried to move it it would blow the fuse. Adjustment is critical when installing the new one.

 

[Rollover Rudy]

I thank everyone for their insight and suggestions. I won’t be able to do anymore diagnosis until this weekend but I’ll certainly continue to accept any advise and counsel.

 

[Rollover Rudy]

Starter turned over when jumped. Turned out to be the treadle switch was bad. Thanks again for the suggestions.