KUBOTA L345DT Project Advice

[Kubotalseries]

So recently bought a kubota l345dt as a project. Previous owner said it needs a New headgasket since there is oil in the radiator and grayish like liquid coming from vent tube.

Before I get ahead of myself is the headgasket the problem?

I have a new head gasket on the way and il be replacing it as soon as it gets here.

Any tips advice or comments? any service manuals available for the v1501-de engine?

Thanks

 

[ScottDR]

Good luck on your rebuild! Be sure to use a torque wrench on all listed torque spec'd bolts. Wish I had more advice. I just bought one myself!

 

[Kubotalseries]

It's a g

Good luck on your rebuild! Be sure to use a torque wrench on all listed torque spec'd bolts. Wish I had more advice. I just bought one myself!

It's an great machine built to last

 

[ScottDR]

Thanks! I have heard great things as well. My Drag Link is GONE and the seat. My tractor was very well maintained, just not really cared for otherwise but at least it didn't live outside.

 

[Motion]

"Very well maintained and cared for" What caused the head gasket to fail, overheating, failed component? How long has the tractor sat with coolant in the engine, hopefully no ring or bearing damage? Once the head is removed it needs to be checked for cracks , damaged valves/seats, flatness, etc.. The cylinder walls need to checked. Correctly set the valves. You may want to consider having the injectors serviced After completing the repairs both systems will need to be thoroughly flushed, and after a few hours of run time change the oil and filter again.. I'd also recommend a baseline compression test. Good luck

 

[rbargeron]

Taking the head off is not a big job. By looking everything over closely you'll be able to tell where any leaking might be - and whether there's any damage to the head or block that needs attention.

An item that can be overlooked when replacing the head gasket on these engines is an O-ring that seals the small oil pipe toward the front of the head. It is not well shown on the parts diagram - on the crankcase drawing it's item 47 - part no.15221-33700 . Its slightly thicker than the head gasket. It seals the oil pressure going up to the the cam and rockers. (Like maybe it could cause mixing of oil and coolant?)

Let us know what you find - Dick B

 

[Kubotalseries]

"Very well maintained and cared for" What caused the head gasket to fail, overheating, failed component? How long has the tractor sat with coolant in the engine, hopefully no ring or bearing damage? Once the head is removed it needs to be checked for cracks , damaged valves/seats, flatness, etc.. The cylinder walls need to checked. Correctly set the valves. You may want to consider having the injectors serviced After completing the repairs both systems will need to be thoroughly flushed, and after a few hours of run time change the oil and filter again.. I'd also recommend a baseline compression test. Good luck

Previous owner said started overheating and he just shut it off. I been doing some more reading and hopefully it's not a cracked block or head. I have no other history of the engine. tractor starts and runs fine no white or black smoke out of exhaust or engine noises. It does have the milkshake type (Gray)consistency in the oil pan. Hopefully it won't need a complete rebuild.

 

[rbargeron]

Here's a tip for engine access - raise the loader all the way and block it up with wood braces. If you don't want to run the engine the front pump unbolts and will lift an empty bucket operating with an electric drill.

Some hydraulic oil goes grey when it absorbs water. Rainwater entering thru a shifter boot or cracked fill plug can let in enough over time to do it. But the "oil" found in the radiator was/is engine oil, right?

 

[Kubotalseries]

Here's a tip for engine access - raise the loader all the way and block it up with wood braces. If you don't want to run the engine the front pump unbolts and will lift an empty bucket operating with an electric drill.

Some hydraulic oil goes grey when it absorbs water. Rainwater entering thru a shifter boot or cracked fill plug can let in enough over time to do it.

One good feature of that rig is the mile-deep rubber - those Goodyear R1's are great.

I thought about removing the loader(l1720 model) looks like extra work to remove and reinstall. I might have to just raise it and chain it to a roof rafter or use engine hoist somehow

 

[rbargeron]

For replacing a head gasket, taking off the 1720 loader is a lot of extra work. Same is true even if splitting the tractor. Much better to leave the loader in place, with bucket raised up and supported on wood posts and/or with 2" ratchet straps from the rafters (raise it while the tractor still runs). If the job escalates into needing work on the block, the tractor can still be supported at the clutch housing for unbolting and rolling the front parts forward. Go slow, think it thru, you'll do fine.

 

[Kubotalseries]

Pulled the head today. No signs of cracked head or bad head gasket. I'm thinking I might have a bad block. Any ideas? Should I take the head to a shop to have it inspected? what cost I'm I looking at ?

 

[Toyman]

Did you send out the head for magnafluxing/testing? Thats the only way you'll really know if it's cracked. Had similar situation when I pulled my head & gasket. Took to machine shop for testing and found cracks. Getting refurbed right now. Good luck.

 

[Russell King]

Pulled the head today. No signs of cracked head or bad head gasket. I'm thinking I might have a bad block. Any ideas? Should I take the head to a shop to have it inspected? what cost I'm I looking at ?

Take the head and have it inspected by a shop. Call for price but I think about $100 tops. Not really that hard of a test to do but cleaning it up takes a bit of time

 

[rbargeron]

I'm betting the block is not bad.

In post 7 says it has "the milkshake type (Gray)consistency in the oil pan". Finding no big leak of engine oil into the coolant, a lesser leak could be going on when the engine is being worked.

The prior owner said it "overheated" and he just shut it off. If a head gasket leaks combustion gasses (and unburned fuel) into coolant passages, it pressurizes the radiator and pushes hot coolant out at the radiator cap. (Might be what the prior owner saw). At that point its quite possible no real damage had actually been done.

Now that the head is off, go ahead and have it checked for flatness and magnafluxed for small cracks - but assuming its ok, put it back together with new head gasket - properly torqued. Put in clean new coolant, new engine oil & filter, and run it.

Another thing to check is whether the thermostat is opening (if in doubt its ok to run without one for the summer).

Get to know how it acts as it heats up to operating temperature. That engine is a fortress - my bet is there's nothing wrong with it that a proper cooling system and well-sealed head gasket wont cure. (Don't forget the o-ring).

Best luck, Dick B

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The blocks are never bad!
Water / coolant getting in the oil with a bad head gasket is very very rare.
It's more likely to to just burn water/coolant off.
There is a frost plug on some models behind the front gear case that can leak, also a front case seal leaking will make it put water/ coolant in the oil.
Cracks on these heads are almost always clearly visible, they will show up between the valves and the prechamber.
Take some good pictures of around the valves and I can almost always tell you if there is a crack.
Also look at the top of the pistons, one if it has a water leak will look completely different then the others.

Also as a Notes:
Get the WSM (aka service manual) off of Kubotabooks.com
And you do not have a V1501 DE thinking you meant V1501 DI (direct injection) engine you have and V1501 IDI (indirect injection) engine.
Huge difference in those 2 engines.

 

[Kubotalseries]

Just got the head back from the shop and it turned out ok had it resurfaced also. Plan is to put everything back together with new headgasket and fresh fluids and hope for the best. Anyone have a diagram of how to tighten and retorque the head bolts it the right sequence? jjgonza309@gmail.com

 

[Russell King]

May need to add a shim of similar thickness as machined off the head?

 

[Kubotalseries]

Got the engine back together and running. Fill with Fresh oil and topped of water in radiator. withing minutes of cranking and eventually firing up still have the milkshake type of fluid in the oil pan and oil filter to block housing. ????

 

[rbargeron]

Good to know the head is ok. With symptoms like it has you were right to look there first.
In post #15 above Wolfman says a leak inside the front gear case can also put coolant into the oil.
If you have shop air or a portable tank, try to pressurize the radiator (don't over-do it) and see how fast it leaks down - and whether you can locate the sound of air leaking inside the engine. Maybe put the oil filter housing back on and open the oil filler cap on the valve cover to let air escape. To leak that much coolant into the crankcase oil in a short run time, the leak is not real small.

The water pump mounts on the outside of the gear case - but the case gasket 011 seals the water pump area where it reaches through to the block. It might be leaking there ?? I don't have experience taking off that case - it looks like the axle has to move away to take it off. Maybe someone else who's been there chimes in -

 

[Kubotalseries]

Good to know the head is ok.
In post #15 above Wolfman says a leak inside the front gear case can put coolant into the oil.
If you have shop air or a portable tank, try to pressurize the radiator (don't over-do it) and see how fast it leaks down - and whether you can locate the sound of air leaking inside the engine. Maybe button up the engine and open the oil filler cap on the valve cover to let air escape. To have that much coolant in the oil in a short run time, the leak is not tiny.

The gasket 011 seals the water pump area to the block - might be leaking? I don't have experience taking it off - looks like the axle has to come away. Hope someone else chimes in -

Thanks for the reply. il be pulling the front gear case just don't want to pull head and again. I have 1 leaking freeze plug on the side of the engine and someone has plugged up another in past with a rubber plug. I noticed there is a freeze plug looking type of plug inside the crankcase. I don't know maybe that one inside is bad too? I don't know, il be pulling the front case soon hopelly it's not a big Job.